PETERPOOP's Turbo Build Thread. - Page 2 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Bluevitz-rs · 11-18-2010, 10:03 PM

depends on RPM. When cold (under 10°C) oil pressure is around 80-90 psi @ 1500RPM and above until it starts to warm up. My car is usually at about 68 psi at cruse (2500ish RPM)

^ if that's any reference to you.

Focus_Sh1ft · 11-18-2010, 10:12 PM

Yeah that sounds about right for me as well.

I ask because I've had this bizarre leak from every filter I've used since I did the turbo install.

The mystery continues...

Nexus1155 · 11-19-2010, 12:58 PM

Hypocrisy, thy name is.... you

Focus_Sh1ft · 11-19-2010, 01:32 PM

Nexus, good to hear from you again

I just checked my BOV and there was so little oil. Again, no loss of oil on the dipstick. Apparently some oil is normal, and the amount I'm seeing is very little. I'm going to play with my return line and return gasket before making any decisions to tap the block. I've also never once seen smoke out my exhaust...

I did also yank the PCV hose off the MAF piping and threw a breather filter in. Probably better to be getting only clean air in the intake anyways. Screw the environment

Nexus1155 · 11-19-2010, 05:22 PM

hah yeah I lurk here alot, and stay in the background most of the time after the whole sleey0 thing. I like watching your builds progress.

I dunno, IMO whenever you turbo a car that isn't turboed to begin with from the factory, theres always going to be small BSey problems. Not something that will blow up the engine, but small things to irk you.

You guys have the oil drains going legit down into the oil pan. Mine are shaped like an L and have a small incline and then goes into the pan but it is on the line right above the pan. If mine doesnt have problems even with an incline in my oil returns which is technically a no no, then you shouldnt either.

Bluevitz-rs · 11-20-2010, 08:40 AM

I just had another idea as to the case of the backup on the return.

Everyone is thinking the return is too restrictive. Well has anyone considered there's a restriction in the PCV valve? If you had a build up of pressure in the crankcase, if the pressure isn't getting out the PCV valve there's only one other option, the drain line for the turbo.

PETERPOOP · 11-20-2010, 08:19 PM

Progress so far...

Got the pan back on. Decided to go below the oil line. Installed the turbo manifold, turbo, and downpipe. The oil send/return line, and now working on the water line.

Tightened the bango fitting with this ghetto trick.

Got the manifold and turbo in place without removing the A/C line. We bolted the turbo to the manifold behind the engine, and then lifted it up and bolted it to the block. We didn't bolt it together first and then try and wedge it into place. It was easier to bolt it together while behind the engine.

Quick question. Getting ready to put on the water line to the turbo. I am going to get it from the throttle body coolant lines. Just wondering if it matters which direction it flows into the turbo? Not sure which is "in" and which is "out." Even with the throttle body lines, which is "in" and which is "out." Obviously I can't start up the car to see which way it flows from the engine. If anyone knows, thanks in advance.

Focus_Sh1ft · 11-21-2010, 02:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

I just had another idea as to the case of the backup on the return.

Everyone is thinking the return is too restrictive. Well has anyone considered there's a restriction in the PCV valve? If you had a build up of pressure in the crankcase, if the pressure isn't getting out the PCV valve there's only one other option, the drain line for the turbo.

This was actually my first idea as to leaking oil. I undoubtedly had a kink in my PCV line, so I ended up pulling it and putting a breather on like two days ago. Carlos was telling me it wasn't possible though, so I dunno. I'll be watching my intake carefully... My ongoing code, P0101, hasn't returned after clearing it when I put that breather on as well.

PETERPOOP, the coolant flow direction doesn't matter. Great progress so far keep it up

Tamago · 11-21-2010, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PETERPOOP

Quick question. Getting ready to put on the water line to the turbo. I am going to get it from the throttle body coolant lines. Just wondering if it matters which direction it flows into the turbo? Not sure which is "in" and which is "out." Even with the throttle body lines, which is "in" and which is "out." Obviously I can't start up the car to see which way it flows from the engine. If anyone knows, thanks in advance.

the cool water (inlet) should be on the lowest fitting of the turbo.

Nexus1155 · 11-21-2010, 12:29 PM

Crush washers are said to only need 12 ftlbs of torque to seal, usually i see them require about 85ft lbs torque to never leak. You might be better off shaving the sides of a wrench, or making a crow foot deal by welding a closed end side of the wrench onto a socket so you can get a wrench in there in some way.

Focus_Sh1ft · 11-21-2010, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nexus1155

Crush washers are said to only need 12 ftlbs of torque to seal, usually i see them require about 85ft lbs torque to never leak. You might be better off shaving the sides of a wrench, or making a crow foot deal by welding a closed end side of the wrench onto a socket so you can get a wrench in there in some way.

I definitely agree - they need way more torque than advertised. Without taking the turbo apart I got them pretty tight but they still leaked. It's easy to take apart too - the only thing holding it together is that c-ring thing I think it's called.

There wasn't room to fit a 17mm socket on it, right? I can't remember, but I do remember not using a socket...

Nexus1155 · 11-21-2010, 02:33 PM

I'd take pics of the tools I made, but you shave down the edges of a wrench to fit it in there easier.

The crow foot is if you cut a box wrench in half and use the closed side and weld a socket on there so you can turn it with a ratcheting wrench. I don't know how to explain this better than that.

rob323 · 11-21-2010, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs

I just had another idea as to the case of the backup on the return.

Everyone is thinking the return is too restrictive. Well has anyone considered there's a restriction in the PCV valve? If you had a build up of pressure in the crankcase, if the pressure isn't getting out the PCV valve there's only one other option, the drain line for the turbo.

Or as the cars get older, the dip sticks pop out.

This would be why most factory turbo cars have two breathers on the rocker cover, one with the pcv to the plenum, the other back to the intake before the turbo.

PETERPOOP · 11-25-2010, 07:33 PM

Done.

More pics to come after Turkey dinner.

Yoda · 11-25-2010, 08:01 PM

Holy shit!

Focus_Sh1ft · 11-25-2010, 09:20 PM

Looks great.

How'd you mount the intercooler?

PETERPOOP · 11-25-2010, 10:43 PM

For the AEM meth injection squirter/nozzle, a hole was needed to be drilled to fit it. We slightly bent the pipe so the nozzle could squirt towards the throttle body.

Oil catch can installed..

For the intercooler, it was mounted with some brackets we made for the bottom. Some plumber's tape was used for the top. It was kinda hard to make the intercooler centered, but we got it as close as we could.

Top shot..

Tamago · 11-25-2010, 11:12 PM

much better looking piping than the Greddy kit for the xA/xB

11-25-2010, 11:12 PM	#36
Tamago View User's Garage Drives: UZJ100 Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Off Grid Posts: 4,922	much better looking piping than the Greddy kit for the xA/xB __________________ Been a long time messing with cars..

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11-18-2010, 10:03 PM	#19
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	depends on RPM. When cold (under 10°C) oil pressure is around 80-90 psi @ 1500RPM and above until it starts to warm up. My car is usually at about 68 psi at cruse (2500ish RPM) ^ if that's any reference to you.

11-18-2010, 10:12 PM	#20
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Yeah that sounds about right for me as well. I ask because I've had this bizarre leak from every filter I've used since I did the turbo install. The mystery continues...

11-19-2010, 12:58 PM	#21
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	Hypocrisy, thy name is.... you

11-19-2010, 01:32 PM	#22
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Nexus, good to hear from you again I just checked my BOV and there was so little oil. Again, no loss of oil on the dipstick. Apparently some oil is normal, and the amount I'm seeing is very little. I'm going to play with my return line and return gasket before making any decisions to tap the block. I've also never once seen smoke out my exhaust... I did also yank the PCV hose off the MAF piping and threw a breather filter in. Probably better to be getting only clean air in the intake anyways. Screw the environment

11-19-2010, 05:22 PM	#23
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	hah yeah I lurk here alot, and stay in the background most of the time after the whole sleey0 thing. I like watching your builds progress. I dunno, IMO whenever you turbo a car that isn't turboed to begin with from the factory, theres always going to be small BSey problems. Not something that will blow up the engine, but small things to irk you. You guys have the oil drains going legit down into the oil pan. Mine are shaped like an L and have a small incline and then goes into the pan but it is on the line right above the pan. If mine doesnt have problems even with an incline in my oil returns which is technically a no no, then you shouldnt either.

11-20-2010, 08:40 AM	#24
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	I just had another idea as to the case of the backup on the return. Everyone is thinking the return is too restrictive. Well has anyone considered there's a restriction in the PCV valve? If you had a build up of pressure in the crankcase, if the pressure isn't getting out the PCV valve there's only one other option, the drain line for the turbo.

11-20-2010, 08:19 PM	#25
PETERPOOP View User's Garage Drives: 08 white liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oahu Posts: 3,674	Progress so far... Got the pan back on. Decided to go below the oil line. Installed the turbo manifold, turbo, and downpipe. The oil send/return line, and now working on the water line. Tightened the bango fitting with this ghetto trick. Got the manifold and turbo in place without removing the A/C line. We bolted the turbo to the manifold behind the engine, and then lifted it up and bolted it to the block. We didn't bolt it together first and then try and wedge it into place. It was easier to bolt it together while behind the engine. Quick question. Getting ready to put on the water line to the turbo. I am going to get it from the throttle body coolant lines. Just wondering if it matters which direction it flows into the turbo? Not sure which is "in" and which is "out." Even with the throttle body lines, which is "in" and which is "out." Obviously I can't start up the car to see which way it flows from the engine. If anyone knows, thanks in advance.

11-21-2010, 12:29 PM	#28
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	Crush washers are said to only need 12 ftlbs of torque to seal, usually i see them require about 85ft lbs torque to never leak. You might be better off shaving the sides of a wrench, or making a crow foot deal by welding a closed end side of the wrench onto a socket so you can get a wrench in there in some way.

11-21-2010, 02:33 PM	#30
Nexus1155 Bathroom + Laptop = <3 Drives: Audi Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Dorchester Posts: 1,009	I'd take pics of the tools I made, but you shave down the edges of a wrench to fit it in there easier. The crow foot is if you cut a box wrench in half and use the closed side and weld a socket on there so you can turn it with a ratcheting wrench. I don't know how to explain this better than that.

11-25-2010, 07:33 PM	#32
PETERPOOP View User's Garage Drives: 08 white liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oahu Posts: 3,674	Done. More pics to come after Turkey dinner.

11-25-2010, 08:01 PM	#33
Yoda Drives: 2008 Black Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: FL Posts: 966	Holy shit!

11-25-2010, 09:20 PM	#34
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Looks great. How'd you mount the intercooler?

11-25-2010, 10:43 PM	#35
PETERPOOP View User's Garage Drives: 08 white liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oahu Posts: 3,674	For the AEM meth injection squirter/nozzle, a hole was needed to be drilled to fit it. We slightly bent the pipe so the nozzle could squirt towards the throttle body. Oil catch can installed.. For the intercooler, it was mounted with some brackets we made for the bottom. Some plumber's tape was used for the top. It was kinda hard to make the intercooler centered, but we got it as close as we could. Top shot..