buying a Yaris, what to look for?

[Kiteless]

Originally Posted by localkineguy

It'll just be a standard blue two door hatchback...no frills, not even power windows/locks. This has got to get me through graduate school :P

Sounds like mine. I got my car brand new back in July of 2006. It had something like 3 miles on it. I was looking for a Yaris but no one had them and so I settled for a Scion xA. I got to the dealer and it had been sold. I thanked them, turned around and started walking to the door. The sales manager stopped me and wanted to know if I would want "one of those new Yaris cars they just got in" almost an hour ago. I went to look at them and they had not even peeled the plastic off the paint yet. I had to wait like 20 min for them to take all the plastic off the interior and exterior, I took it for a test drive and fell in love. I BARELY got financed, and the car has never failed me. It also had no options on it at all. Not even a stereo, just a plastic plate with a Toyota logo on it. I had to wait for almost 6 months before Metra came out with a dash kit on it. Found the kit on eBay weeeeeeeks before any local car audio places could get them.

Anyway, I am sure you will love your Yaris. Especially if you got the manual. Its the little car that just wants you to love it.

- Jason

[nemelek]

Originally Posted by localkineguy

You think that if the guy didn't do regular oil changes that's a deal-breaker?

It is for me.

[tk1971]

Test drive it and make sure the clutch is in good shape.

Also, check the tires for feathering and uneven wear. You don't want to get new tires shortly after buying the car.

Good luck.

[rningonfumes]

Ask where most of the miles were made. It matters for the engine and for the tranny/clutch. Who was the primary driver? Kid who liked to push it or commuter's A to B car?


I used to wonder why it mattered where the miles were made. I then realized that highway miles means less wear and tear, especially for the tranny.

[localkineguy]

Tires looked good when I took a look at them...they looked evenly worn too. The owner/driver is a manager (late 30s?) at a Harley Davidson store. Many miles were highway (so he claims) to commute to and from where he used to work.

How can you make sure the clutch is "in good shape" via a test drive?

[nemelek]

[QUOTEHow can you make sure the clutch is "in good shape" via a test drive?[/QUOTE]

Stop the car. Set the park brake. Put it in 5th gear. Rev the engine to red line. Pop the clutch while keeping the engine reved.

If the engine dies, the clutch is good.
If the engine keeps running, the clutch is bad.

Note: Don't let the current owner see you do this test.

[Kiteless]

Originally Posted by localkineguy

Tires looked good when I took a look at them...they looked evenly worn too. The owner/driver is a manager (late 30s?) at a Harley Davidson store. Many miles were highway (so he claims) to commute to and from where he used to work.

How can you make sure the clutch is "in good shape" via a test drive?

For the clutch, I test by pushing the car hard in lower gears, with permission from the current owner of course. If you have been driving a stick you can feel the clutch slipping, but it's harder without a tach. Shift smoothly and apply power as soon as you let the clutch out. Don't do quick shifts and drive it like a race car, 1st gear, RPM's up, clutch in and wait a moment for the revs to come back down and second... it should be smooth. Don't forget to look at the dryness of hoses, and the state of the accessory belt. That belt runs your water pump among other things, so its important it does not break. Look at how cracked it is mainly on the inside that has ribbing that grabs around the pulleys.

Also test brakes, does it stop well? Good, no need to slam on them. Also brake gently, any wobble? If there is there may be a warped rotor and at that age will need replacing.

Look under the car, any oil?

After it's warmed up listen to it idle, it should be niiiiice and smooth.

Pop the air cleaner and look at it. Is it nasty? Even if it does not need it, maybe go get a test only smog done on it. If it passes, that is also a good indication that it is a solid running car.

You can even put a volt meter on the alternator and see what its putting out. I believe a good strong alternator should put out like 14 volts? May need correction there.

Thats my way anyway. I am too chicken***t to redline a car, especially someone elses. Hope this helps.

- Jason

[localkineguy]

1. Can you post a picture of the accessory belt? Is it the belt on the passenger side of the car?
2. Rotor warping shows up as vibrations in the brake pedal during deceleration right? (i.e. wobble = vibrating/pulsing?)
3. Can you also post a picture of the air filter?
4. Can I get a second opinion on the alternator voltage? I do have a multimeter and can do that pretty quickly


By the way, thanks for all of the responses guys