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01-29-2007, 07:42 PM | #19 |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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FU: Looking to make +/- 150HP 5-7 lbs
ECO: Under $3000 RUS: Log style, What I/C do you want to use & where do you want to place it? |
01-30-2007, 06:02 PM | #20 | |
Banned
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Quote:
the pee stain after you 1st floor it and can now *pass* most minivans is 100% turbo related. |
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01-30-2007, 06:04 PM | #21 |
hope you are changing your internals too
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01-30-2007, 06:11 PM | #22 |
Banned
Drives: LB Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: OH
Posts: 7,787
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01-30-2007, 06:31 PM | #23 |
Lurker supreme!
Drives: old and boosted! Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Posts: 792
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After spending the day very carefullly perusing some "What kind of turbo should I get?" sites (Garrett *great site* & MazdaSpeed), I built this big Excel spreadsheet so I can see how the different values for airflow, manifold pressure, pressure ratio, target horsepower, etc. interact. Then I studied a whole bunch of compression maps, and I figured that if aiming to produce less than 180HP, then a GT22 or even a GT20 would suffice.
I mean, assuming Air/Fuel = 12, and BSFC (fuel consumption) = 0.55, then for 180HP, you'd need 19.8 lb/min of (actual) airflow. So, assuming a decent intercooler and intake/exhaust plumbing, the pressure ratio @ 6,500 RPM should be somewhere around 2.2-2.3. These numbers are smack dab in the middle of the efficiency islands for the GT2252, but even still on the maps for a couple GT20's. It seems that a lot of those bigger 'chargers are for when you have much more airflow. But seriously, I'm a noob at this. I only know what I've taught myself. But wouldn't you want to pick the smallest turbo possible that still has all your target numbers inside its compression map, to the left of the choke line? Thanks in advance for any thoughts or corrections on this!
__________________
2006 Red Blitzed RS 5-door |
01-30-2007, 09:12 PM | #24 |
Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miami FL
Posts: 782
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DNGZ: Why do I need to change the internals now with a low boost kit? You can run a Greddy S/C, Greddy tubocharger & Blitz S/C with stock internals.
I will go to JE pistons & Carrillo rods when I find the limits of the stock 1NZFE. DOC: I have the GT15 in my garage. I ordered it with the intention of running the smallest turbo but when I received it I came across some unforseen problems. 1) Exhaust housing in tiny. I felt the exhaust could not breath properly through it 2) The whole turbo itself is to small, what I mean is phisically. I am planning on selling this kit & with the GT15 it made the kit unapealing. I will post a pic of it asap |
01-30-2007, 11:06 PM | #25 | |
Banned
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01-30-2007, 11:19 PM | #26 | |
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After all this car is all for Efficiency... Why have Turbo you can't use? 4-6LBS of boost should be more then enough... In most cases that equals out to about 150 - 160HP... In a car our size... DAMN, That Bitch Will Be Quick! |
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01-30-2007, 11:44 PM | #27 | |
Lurker supreme!
Drives: old and boosted! Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Posts: 792
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Quote:
Would be interested in seeing a pic, with something to reference scale. Must be a *tiny* turbo! Also, I think I remember reading somewhere that the reason none of the forced-induction offerings available for the 1NZFE get above 150HP is because of the offset crank, and the stock internals just can't take anything above that. Any comments or thoughts on this?
__________________
2006 Red Blitzed RS 5-door |
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01-31-2007, 12:58 AM | #28 |
just want to keep your car as reliable as can be!
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