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01-10-2012, 01:56 PM | #19 | ||
それを吸ってください
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Quote:
Quote:
Let me know if you have any questions http://www.microimageonline.com/foru...1NZ?highlight= |
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01-10-2012, 02:26 PM | #20 |
Drives: 2008 HB, A/T, Power W/L/M Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: LI, New Yawk
Posts: 2,063
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I bought my oem pump for about $78usd. I have an AC Delco pump as a spare part..
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01-31-2014, 06:21 PM | #21 | |
Drives: 2008 Yaris hatchback in white Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Maui Hawaii
Posts: 38
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water pump replacement
Comments below barryware's very accurate and useful post:
Quote:
I was looking for torque specs for the 5 pump bolts and was only able to find 18 inch pounds for those 10mm nuts and bolts Taking the alternator out makes it much easier!! You will need to use a screwdriver or in my case a screwdriver with a hook end to put through the pulley so it won't turn, otherwise it will spin. I also loosened the motor mount, and the one A/C line mount and finally used a pry bar to get enough clearance to wrestle the pump out. This is the hardest part, just not enough room, really need an extra 1/4 inch. Also the bottom most bolt on the pump is a pain as under the pump are two bolts the TOP one is for the waterpump and they are situated vertically, you want the topmost one. A retractable mirror is useful here but it can be done by feel. Ours lasted 115K on a '07. ASIN OEM waterpump available on eBay for $45 including Priority shipping and it has the proper metal gasket!!! Aloha |
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01-31-2014, 09:07 PM | #22 | |
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Torque for the pump is only 8.1 lbs and 11 lbs for the pully wheel as per toyota spec ...just did my wp this week . |
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02-01-2014, 12:18 AM | #23 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris hatchback in white Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Maui Hawaii
Posts: 38
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Water Pump Torque specs
thanks for those torque specs, I went with about 95 ft #'son the waterpump, no leaks should be good to go... BTW used almost exactly one gallon of Toyota Pink premix antifreeze just draining it out the bottom of radiator. The stuff looked perfectly clean and clear pink even after 115K but replaced it anyway...
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02-01-2014, 12:46 PM | #24 | |
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10-02-2014, 08:16 AM | #25 |
Drives: NONE Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: NOWHERE
Posts: 95
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My OE water pump went out at 30 some thousand miles I installed an ASC water pump (branded "Tough One" from Autozone). After hearing Asin may only last another 30,000 or 200,000 I just opted for the Autozone part with life time warranty.
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02-17-2016, 03:34 PM | #26 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 4
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Water Pump Replacement
I know this is an old thread, and am not sure if any one will get this....
But I was curious at how many of your water pumps failed so early on in the car's life. I am at 148k miles on my '08 Yaris, and have just now ran into problems with the WP. Gonna replace it this weekend, and I am deciding to go with a Duralast from AutoZone over ordering an OEM part. I guess I am just fortunate that I was able to go so long without problems. The main problem I'm getting now is noise, lots of noise, almost like a grinding or rattle. I don't seem to have a lot of leakage. I saw a previous poster mention the shaft might be damaged and that could be what causes the grinding sound. Anyway... I'm set to do the job myself, but definitely am going to try to have some assistance from a helper. I always foul things up when I don't have a second opinion near by. |
02-17-2016, 03:42 PM | #27 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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Just get a lifetime warranty one. That way you'll never have to pay for one again if it ever goes out. My OEM pump went out at around 130,000km and a new Parts Source lifetime warranty one has given me no problems so far w/ 20k km on it now.
It's not hard to do but you'll want to loosen the passenger side motor mount and use a jack under the oil pan to help get access to one of the wp bolts
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02-20-2016, 07:32 AM | #28 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 4
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Thanks for the tip!!! Headed to the auto parts store right now. Wish me luck
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02-20-2016, 08:48 AM | #29 |
Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,790
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Good luck and we are here to help.
I think your we is really toast if it's noisy. My just leaked but I replaced it cause it was under warranty.
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02-20-2016, 11:00 AM | #30 |
Best way if u have a hoist is to go through the pass side wheel area and have the engine drop after removing the engine mount, you can have it done under 30 min.
Or go through the top by lifting engine and removing the alt ... Works too just takes longer and more of a pain. Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk |
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02-20-2016, 11:09 AM | #31 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,938
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^ good point. I can't remember if I accessed it from below or up top. Either way being able to move the engine up and down really help access that bottom wp bolt.
If your wp is sqealing then change it now before it strand you on the side of the road or over heats your car. If it's squealing then the bearing is usually toast and it's just a matter of time. The wp in my Echo went out at 300,000km and it never leaked. Just squealed like a banshee. The wp in my Yaris never made any noise but it left a pink streak under my hood. So I didn't feel like seeing how long I could go until it gave way and started leaking a ton of coolant. Fwiw, I drained the coolant before doing this job. I'm not sure if anyone else has done this w/ out draining the coolant but i'd recommend it.
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