Is it critical to change coolant at 100K?

[RMcG]

Thanks to everybody, especially tmontague. I think all my questions have been answered.

R.

[komichal]

Just a few notes from me:
- before you start draining out the coolant, set the cabin temperature knob to max
- by draining the coolant via the radiator petcock you will not get out everything. I can drain slightly over a half of the coolant only. There is a petcock on the engine that allows you to extract some additional liquid but it is a rusty one - IMHO not worth it (it is like 2-3 dcl only), especially when there is no chance to lift the car up
- I am draining and refilling the coolant once a year. I know it is waaaay too often, however it is a 20 minutes easy job and this way the "old" coolant that stays inside the car has no chance to get "too old".
- I agree that original Toyota coolant is naturally the choice number 1. However, I do not use it. I use Sheron Antifreeze G12 which can be bought already 50/50 mixed and the bottle costs around 7 USD (4 times less than original Toyota stuff). This Sheron product won in the test of several other brands available locally and it matches the specs required by Toyota.

[Mike Dexter]

Originally Posted by komichal

Just a few notes from me:
- before you start draining out the coolant, set the cabin temperature knob to max
- by draining the coolant via the radiator petcock you will not get out everything. I can drain slightly over a half of the coolant only. There is a petcock on the engine that allows you to extract some additional liquid but it is a rusty one - IMHO not worth it (it is like 2-3 dcl only), especially when there is no chance to lift the car up
- I am draining and refilling the coolant once a year. I know it is waaaay too often, however it is a 20 minutes easy job and this way the "old" coolant that stays inside the car has no chance to get "too old".
- I agree that original Toyota coolant is naturally the choice number 1. However, I do not use it. I use Sheron Antifreeze G12 which can be bought already 50/50 mixed and the bottle costs around 7 USD (4 times less than original Toyota stuff). This Sheron product won in the test of several other brands available locally and it matches the specs required by Toyota.

I second this. Once per year, radiator drain and refill only. Then you are frequently cycling new coolant through, with little cost & time invested. In my experience, Toyota's are not very sensitive to whether or not you use OEM coolant. I use Zerex brand in my Yaris.

[tmontague]

Originally Posted by komichal

Just a few notes from me:
- before you start draining out the coolant, set the cabin temperature knob to max
- by draining the coolant via the radiator petcock you will not get out everything. I can drain slightly over a half of the coolant only. There is a petcock on the engine that allows you to extract some additional liquid but it is a rusty one - IMHO not worth it (it is like 2-3 dcl only), especially when there is no chance to lift the car up
- I am draining and refilling the coolant once a year. I know it is waaaay too often, however it is a 20 minutes easy job and this way the "old" coolant that stays inside the car has no chance to get "too old".
- I agree that original Toyota coolant is naturally the choice number 1. However, I do not use it. I use Sheron Antifreeze G12 which can be bought already 50/50 mixed and the bottle costs around 7 USD (4 times less than original Toyota stuff). This Sheron product won in the test of several other brands available locally and it matches the specs required by Toyota.

good points - although I never understood everyone saying to put the heat on high. All this does is move the flap so the air passess over the heater core instead of bypassing it. This has no effect on coolant running through the heater core.

Have there been some past cars that had some sort of coolant heater core by pass when the hvac is set to cold air only?


It seems that a handful of manufacturers have come out with Toyota specific (Asian brand) coolant in the last couple years. Originally when I purchased my Yaris around 5 or so years ago, there really wasn't much options for aftermarket coolant other than green "universal" unicorn tears.

[komichal]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Have there been some past cars that had some sort of coolant heater core by pass when the hvac is set to cold air only?

I used to drive some older Mitsubishi and it really used to have some electric-controlled valves that enabled or disabled the coolant flow through the heatcore. It is probably pointless for Yaris, you are right. It is just an old habit that does nothing wrong on some cars and does something right for other cars. :)

[RMcG]

Is this Valvoline Zerex ZEREX DEX-COOL acceptable for a 2008 Yaris? Here is an Amazon link. ? Based on looking at the owner's manual, it looks like it is compatible.

I have also attached a screenshot that shows a check by compatibility with 2008 Toyota Yaris.

Here below is detailed information on the composition:

Valvoline ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant is a patented* carboxylate formulation with a service life of up to five years or 150,000 miles. It incorporates state-of-the-art organic acid technology in an ethylene glycol base for protection of all cooling system metals including aluminum. ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant is approved by General Motors to the GM 6277M specification. ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant contains no phosphates, silicates, borates, nitrates, amines and nitrites. It can be mixed with any DEX-COOL and is approved by Opel, Dae Woo and Saab. It is dyed orange to distinguish its unique chemistry from traditional green and yellow silicate coolants. When diluted 50% with water, ZEREX DEX-COOL protects modern engine components from winter freezing and summer boiling. ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant is storage stable for up to five years as both a concentrate or diluted with water. It contains a high quality defoamer and will not harm gaskets, hoses, plastics or original vehicle paint. Call 1-800- TEAM-VAL with questions. ZEREX DEX-COOL is formulated to meet or exceed the following antifreeze specifications and/or is recommended: ASTM D3306 SAE J1034, J814 SAE J1941 GM 6277M DEX-COOL APPROVED Siemens Wind Turbines Ford WSS-M97B44-D Saab, Opel Approved Scania, Volvo TMC of ATA RP-302B Federal Specification A-A-870A Navistar CEMS B-1 Type IIIA

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by RMcG

Here is an Amazon link. ? Based on looking at the owner's manual, it looks like it is compatible.

Here below is detailed information on the composition:

Valvoline ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant is a patented* carboxylate formulation with a service life of up to five years or 150,000 miles. It incorporates state-of-the-art organic acid technology in an ethylene glycol base for protection of all cooling system metals including aluminum. ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant is approved by General Motors to the GM 6277M specification. ZEREX DEX-COOL antifreeze coolant contains no phosphates, silicates, borates, nitrates, amines and nitrites.

The owner's manual says to use Toyota Super Long Life Coolant or a similar high-quality ethylene glycol-based, nonsilicate, non-amine, non-nitrite, and non-borate coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology.

It looks like this Zerex formulation meets the requirements, but I am interested in what others think. One of my doubts is that this Zerex formulation is orange and what I have in the car is pink.

Thanks,

R.

[zoidberg444]

I use the long life Toyota coolant mate. I'm to suspicious of other coolant brands to risk it.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by zoidberg444

I use the long life Toyota coolant mate. I'm to suspicious of other coolant brands to risk it.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Thanks for your advice Zoidberg. I appreciate your advice. I read about your trek across Scandanavia. It is impressive.

R.

[tmontague]

As i stated above, this will be fine but you will dilute your new coolant below 50/50 due to the water left in it. Make sure you test your coolant's freezing point once you swap it out

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by tmontague

As i stated above, this will be fine but you will dilute your new coolant below 50/50 due to the water left in it. Make sure you test your coolant's freezing point once you swap it out

Thanks tmontague. I did indeed read your previous post about how you run different dilutions and I am aware that the freezing and boiling points change with dilution. I was more worried, however, about the effect of dilution on the corrosion inhibitors and the lubricants.

I just bought two gallons at the local Toyota dealer, total cost with tax $50 USD. But my worries about corrosion inhibitors and lubricants may be moot, because according to the information on the coolant bottles, the 50/50 freezing point is only -34 degrees Fahrenheit. That is OK where I live now in the Pacific NW of the US, but if I go back to Montana, it is not OK. Because it can get to 40 below in Montana. I will have to call a Toyota dealership back in Montana and ask them what they sell for coolant.

Thanks,

R.

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by RMcG

... my worries about corrosion inhibitors and lubricants may be moot, because according to the information on the coolant bottles, the 50/50 freezing point is only -34 degrees Fahrenheit. That is OK where I live now in the Pacific NW of the US, but if I go back to Montana, it is not OK. Because it can get to 40 below in Montana. I will have to call a Toyota dealership back in Montana and ask them what they sell for coolant..

A busy airport in Montana recorded a temperature of 39 below zero in March of 2019, so this is not an academic consideration. I called a Toyota Dealer in Fairbanks, Alaska, and they use Toyota brand coolant 00272-LLAC01, which is undiluted. (I think this part number is off by one digit, see below.) It costs $30USD. They dilute this 60/40 with distilled water to get a freezing point of 62 below zero.

I think the actual number is Toyota 00272-1LLAC-01, see this amazon link.

I am not sure if this other part number coolant can be delivered to a local Toyota dealer here or not. But I will call tomorrow and find out.

Thanks,

R.

[tmontague]

I've used Recochem in diluted in every toyota I have ever owned with zero issues. The ingredients are virtually identical.

I mix my own coolant depending in what car it is going in (60/40 for my sis in laws yaris when she was up North for school, 50/50 for my Vibe and my yaris in the winter and 10/90 with amsoil coolant booster for my yaris during track season

Use it with confidence

[RMcG]

Originally Posted by tmontague

I've used Recochem in diluted in every toyota I have ever owned with zero issues. The ingredients are virtually identical.

I mix my own coolant depending in what car it is going in (60/40 for my sis in laws yaris when she was up North for school, 50/50 for my Vibe and my yaris in the winter and 10/90 with amsoil coolant booster for my yaris during track season

Use it with confidence

I just want to double-check, the dilution recipes call for diluting with "de-ionized water." Most of the de-ionized water sold on Amazon is pretty expensive, e.g., > $20USD per gallon. One of the Toyota dealers I talked to said they used distilled water (much cheaper ~ 1 USD per gallon).

QUESTION: Is using distilled water for dilution OK?

Thanks,

R.

[tmontague]

I used deionized because it is sold at my local Canadian tire but clearly states it is not potable. Distilled will be fine, iirc distilled has a slightly higher amount of dissolver salts still in it but it is a moot amount. Plus your coolant ratio is so high that you could use hard tap water and be fine as the coolant is meant to help with that issue

[fj40dave]

Well.....

I thought the coolant was like the fuel filter: Good for the life of the car......boy, I've been running on borrowed time!

235k on the original coolant for my '08 HB.....no issues!

I did just order the Toyoya 00272-1LLAC-01 ANTIFREEZE GALLON W from the link above.....thank you RMcG!

[toyotavios_11]

150000km or 10 years whichever come first and subsequently every 50000km or 5 years whichever come first

[tmontague]

I'm doubtful there will be any objective evidence floating around.

I've been wrenching on old used cars for year - I buy them at their lowest price and put a lot of time into them so that I can be sure they are safe and comfortable for my family and last another 5 years at least. I end up with a great car fir pennies on the dollar.

One thing I've learned is what is useful and what is just wasting time and money. Coolant flush on proper oem fluid that appears fine is a waste. I have only flushed my yaris when I got it because it had green coolant in it.

I used to drop trans pans and swap out filters when I changed trans fluid. Every single time the filters were completely clear (all fine functioning trans, not blown apart). So now I just do a fluid "flush" using the trans cooler line. Saves me time and money on something that has shown no benefit.

In the end of the day it is your time and money so do what makes you sleep at night. But trust me when I say that a flush is a practice in futility in your case. This is coming from someone who is objective data driven and applies real world experience the best that I can to that. Ie: using 0w20 oil on the track amidst the cries of tradition