Intake / headers / Exhaust.... do you and I need it???

[cali yaris]

The dealer can't void your warranty for installing TRD parts. They are Toyota parts! In fact, they can't void your warranty for most aftermarket parts, unless they can prove the part caused the problem.

Some dealerships are more rigid about it than others; but usually getting to know the Service Manager avoids any conflict.

[xnamerxx]

Originally Posted by ya_RS

If i'm wrong at any point pls feel free to correct me, I'll learn and others will learn[/I]




--Having the 3 (I/H/E) gets the air in and out faster but only if your tracking/ Circuit or Auto X ing ... this is due to having the engine always on full throttle, and using high RPMs

If its properly designed there won't be a significant loss of low end torque..you also want low end torque for Autox and drag racing, or if you just retain the stock gearing and are circuit racing. With all the work i've done to my car there is actually a gain in low rpm torque...these engines have very very good torque management.

--The downside to this is the loss of back pressure ...http://www.warnertechnology.com/Cars/backpressure.shtml

That's sort of a misnomer back pressure is always bad and any significant backpressure will result in a horrible loss of power at every rpm point as there is no scavenging going on if there is pressure in the pipes. You want the exhaust to be under a constant vacuum as that's what makes scavenging work. Plus were also talking about 4 stroke engines here...the difference between a truly terrible designed exhaust and the best one ever is a few percent...you can move the torque band around a bit but that's more of a tuning device.

--So before you rush and spend $$$ on the combo ask yourself if you really need it....


--Spend the money on lightweight rims / Stickier tires / better Suspension (better handing) / CF hood (lighter and nice on the eyes) , better clutch

Of that list the tire, rims,suspension are the only things I would touch. Why waste money on a clutch that makes driving around worse and isn't needed when the stock clutch is easily capable of handling the power?
CF hood's don't weigh significantly less cost quit a bit money and you don't gain much after its painted. It would be far better to spend money on significant weight reduction ie battery, seats, rims, flywheel, etc.

If i'm wrong at any point pls feel free to correct me, I'll learn and others will learn[/I][/B]

[1.5]

Moss Magnuson Act

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuso...s_Warranty_Act

Basically unless the dealer can provide proof that your modification, aftermarket or not, caused the issue then they cannot void the warranty.

Also states... "Warrantors cannot require that only branded parts be used with the product in order to retain the warranty..."
"

[speed1]

So please,
what I know to squeeze hp from N/A engine best intake e exhaust flow needed.
I don't know DC 4-1 but don't believe much difference than weapon 4-2-1.
Both larger primary, both same total size.
I read 4-2-1 made for low end but when I tried weapon with stock engine I noticed loss at low and gain at mid e hi.
Weapon-r intake manifold with 1zz TB + header can be choice to add 5hp?

[xnamerxx]

You probably noticed a loss of torque at the low end because WR increase the header volume by increasing primary size and not primary length. When you oversize the primary size the exhaust velocity is low at low speeds and high at high speeds.

Its a limitation most aftermarket header companies are stuck with because they can't increase the length so that's the only way to increase the manifold volume.

[speed1]

Then better make stock diameter primary longer or better make longer aftermarket that yet is larger primary?
So better 45mm stock pipe diameter or better make 50mm?
Cause I heard 50mm is best for yaris exhaust pipe.......
Is it?