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04-01-2014, 02:04 AM | #343 |
Drives: 2('14+'07)MT 3d ,wHandCrWndws! Join Date: May 2009
Location: S.MontgomeryCnty,TX(HoustonMSA) '07=BayouBlue=300,125miles=OrigOwnr '14=ClassicSilvr=29,059miles
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04-07-2014, 09:55 AM | #344 |
I've made a post!
Drives: 2007 Yaris S Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 1
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Control Arm bolts.
Recently had this happen as well. Battled with Toyota to cover this and lost. decided to tackle it myself.
The bolt head had completely broken off. Got it up on a lift and tried to loosen on side of the cross member enough to be able to grab it with some vise grips. This did not work. Grabbed a punch and stuck it in the hole. Couple of smacks with the hammer and it shot up into the inside and separated the tacked on nut from the floor board. As you might be able to see from the pictures there would've been no way to grab this and try to turn it out. Rebolted this with nut and lock washer and on my way. Saved myself about 2 hundred bucks (this is what the local shop wanted to drop the cross member). Had about an hour in the job and that included re-tightening everything I loosened on the first attempt. FYI if you have had this repair done at an independent shop (non-Toyota Dealer) they will not reimburse you. |
04-08-2014, 03:32 PM | #345 |
toyota
Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: toronto, canada
Posts: 3,637
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Unfortunately this is not a recall here in canada...why is that.
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If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits eighty-eight miles per hour... you're gonna see some serious shit!!!!!! "Horsepower is how fast you hit the object. Torque is how far you move that object.." |
04-20-2014, 07:26 PM | #346 |
Drives: 08 Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Toronto
Posts: 301
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05-09-2014, 10:12 PM | #347 |
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
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My friend decided to take a crack at changing his bolts a few days ago. He lives in the Northeast and has less than 60k on his car.
Once he got past the trepidation of ever so slowly loosening one then the other, that was it, completely uneventful. Both expelled a couple of tablespoons of black liquid, I mean black. INK BLACK. Once removed he was amazed..................................at the LACK of corrosion! Some rust on the threads, but nothing, zero, zippo, nada corrosion of any sort around the shaft or washer or the bolt head. No kidding. Nothing. He thought maybe just clean these up, dress them with anti seize and put them back. Went ahead with the new ones. Someone mentioned here the hardest part of this was getting the wrench to click at 118 while lying on your back/side, no kidding! That and attempting it in the first place. I believe he is now going to change them every 2 years, max. Thankful that there were no issues, he understands how fortunate he was given some of the stories and experiences shared here. Cheers. |
05-09-2014, 10:14 PM | #348 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Interesting. The black deposits almost look like some form of an oily residue.
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05-09-2014, 10:20 PM | #349 |
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
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Was odd, thought perhaps it was some kind of remnants of grease. My friend told me he had brought this whole issue up at the dealership several oil changes ago. Wonder if they maybe they took them out, greased them and put them back in?
As for the seam sealing, that is going to have to wait till he has access to a lift. Last edited by NEexpat; 05-09-2014 at 10:31 PM. |
05-09-2014, 10:36 PM | #350 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Quote:
We had enviri's Yaris up on my lift this week and I contemplated checking/changing his bolts, but he has one of the front under braces on his car and it is basically fused to its mounting bolts thanks to his car being so low. So, if one snapped we would have had a bear of a time dropping the subframe to get it out.
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05-09-2014, 10:57 PM | #351 |
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
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Well that's it isn't it. In a nutshell, do you risk it, or continue on with your fingers crossed.
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05-10-2014, 01:23 PM | #352 |
Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris 2D Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 28
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How do i tell if my car is included in the problem cars?
VIN #JTDJT923085205355 |
05-10-2014, 01:41 PM | #353 |
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
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^Silver I think it is safe to say that this whole issue is a product of poor design and not poor bolts.
The shape and design of the lower control arm holds water around the bolt. Those who endure winters seem to be more susceptible to corrosion due to the caustic nature of chemicals and road salts etc. Hence the extended warranty, TSB's, including the additional seam sealing to prevent/lessen more water/moisture into that area. I would love to say it doesn't hurt to check but this thread and others have documented quite the opposite. |
05-10-2014, 06:41 PM | #354 | |
Drives: 2008 Toyota Yaris 2D Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 28
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Quote:
The bolts APPEAR to be fine from just a cursory look, so i assume that's all that the toyota dealership would do, and with my luck i doubt that they would break before next year when the extended warranty ran out on my 08 yaris. Maybe i could try, then if they snapped off i could just claim that the car was making the odd sound? |
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05-10-2014, 07:06 PM | #355 |
Drives: 2009, auto, 4dr LB Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: S.E. New England
Posts: 292
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If I had to guess, and it would only be a guess, I am not a tech or mechanic. My guess would be that your bolts are probably fine, of course who knows.
A lot of people's bolt heads looked fine, the problem is hidden. If I were approaching the end of the extended warranty for the bolts and my bolts had never been replaced, I personally, not a suggestion or recommendation to anyone, I'd take a crack at them. There are plenty of folks here who can speak to this far better than I can. I'm sure some will chime in. Last edited by NEexpat; 05-10-2014 at 07:19 PM. |
05-11-2014, 02:55 PM | #356 |
Drives: 2007 red Yaris HB AT Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: southeast USA
Posts: 197
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Thanks for this useful thread. What no one mentioned in this thread, the bolts are very easy to remove for inspection if one has semi-decent tools. I did it in my driveway without lifting the car and I used a cheap breaker bar like this, without any struggle:
My kid's Yaris was made in 2006, but spent all its life in deep south and mostly in south Florida. I didn't expect the bolts to be in bad condition, but there was some rust in the neck of the head, just next to the washer. Either water pooling there and/or galvanic corrosion due to different metal in the washer? Even though it rained a lot a week ago and before, the bolts were dry. I packed the bolt area under the washer in grease and screwed it back. The 118 lbs/ft torque made me sweat a bit. IMHO, since this is a simple job, everyone should at least remove the bolts for inspection/lubrication and/or replace if needed. Yaris experts, anything else that needs to be torqued down there? |
05-11-2014, 07:04 PM | #357 | |
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Quote:
It is a very easy job provided they aren't rusted enough to snap. At that point in goes from a simple job with a breaker bar to an absolute nightmare. The problem is that you can't necessarily tell which way it is going to go until you give it a shot, so it is a bit of Russian roulette if you live North of the Mason-Dixon line.
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05-11-2014, 09:37 PM | #358 | |
Drives: 2007 red Yaris HB AT Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: southeast USA
Posts: 197
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Quote:
Last edited by jack black; 05-12-2014 at 10:10 AM. |
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05-12-2014, 12:20 AM | #359 |
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
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I'll be replacing the bolts on my 08 Yaris this weekend as the dealership I ordered then from won't get them in until Tuesday. I live in Southern Ontario so I'm not expecting then to look great. I have an impact driver would anyone recommend using that to remove the bolts? Or am I better to stick with a cheater bar since to avoid snapping the head off?
Scott did you have to jack anything up to keep it from falling down when you removed the sub frame? I'm asking incase my bolts snap I want to be able to take it to my mechanic and have him weld on a but and remove the bolts without having to spend a ton of time and therefore cost me a ton if money. The more I can do myself the better and I don't have welding equipment. |
05-12-2014, 06:32 AM | #360 | |
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Quote:
I would use a long handled ratchet or breaker bar, rather than an impact gun. If the bolts are in bad shape the impact gun will snap them like toothpicks. You don't have to support anything while removing them and can carefully drive to the dealership if one snaps on you.
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