I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[sleey0]

So if u yank the water cooling won't it overheat?

[why?]

Originally Posted by sleey0

So if u yank the water cooling won't it overheat?

it is also oil cooled, the water cooling was just a backup so you could abuse the turbo and not worry.

[Parmas]

As I was reading the last 2 pages it seems like there is a big ? on O2 Control, Open/ Closed loop etc...

Since now I am studying into standalone ecu management systems all this big questions aren't a taboo for me anymore.

The only issue with the information I am going to mention is that eventually I don't know for sure if the Toyota Stock Ecu works exactly the same but at least you can have something to refer on man

Below is a tab of information on my Platinum Sport ecu for my wideband. All settings are critical to have a good working engine at all conditions :


1. There are two types, Wideband and Narrowband. Usually wideband sensors are able to adjust fuel at higher rpm than narrow band


2. Target Voltage

- Only valid for Narrowband sensors. This is the sensor voltage that the ECU will try to target. This should be between the two voltages that the sensor outputs for below stoichiometric and above stoichiometric. Setting this target too close to either of these voltages may lead the controller to not function.

3. Idle Target Voltage

- Only valid for Narrowband sensors. This is usually set slightly higher than the above target voltage to help richen the idle mixtures to aid in idle smoothness.

4. Maximum Increase

- Maximum percentage increase in fuel that is allowed by the O2 controller. (Max 25%).

5. Maximum Decrease

- Maximum percentage decrease in fuel that is allowed by the O2 controller. (Max 25%).

6. Proportional Control

- This value alters the gain or sensitivity of the controller. The Proportional Control affect the sensitvity of the short term control.

7. Integral Control

- This value alters the gain or sensitivity of the controller. The Integral Control affect the sensitivity of the long term trim.

8. Sample Rate

- The rate at which the controller will read the O2 sensor and calculate the correction when above the idle RPM. If this is set too fast, the controller will over-react and a very unstable control will result. If this is set too slow, then the O2 controller will be slow to move towards its target and may not achieve the slight oscillations that are desirable.

9. Idle Sample Rate

- The rate at which the controller will read the O2 sensor and calculate the correction when below the idle RPM. If this is set too fast, the controller will over-react and a very unstable control will result. If this is set too slow, then the O2 controller will be slow to move towards its target and may not achieve the slight oscillations that are desirable.

10. Post Start Delay

- A cold O2 sensor voltage reading is always low. Set this value so that the sensor has enough time to reach operating temperature.

11. Delay Till Control

- This setting will delay when the closed loop O2 control will start when all the conditions are met. This helps the controller stop cutting in and out when on the border of one of the conditions that need to be satisfied.

12. Lower RPM

- The minimum RPM at which O2 control will happen. If this value is greater than this value then O2 control at idle will be disabled.

13. Idle RPM

- When the engine speed is below this value and there is zero throttle then the O2 Target Idle Voltage is used. To disable the use of this parameter then set it lower than the Low RPM value.

14. Upper RPM

- The maximum RPM at which O2 control will happen. Having O2 control off at RPM may be desirable if you are running a narrow band sensor.

15. Operating Temperature

- O2 control will only work above this coolant temperature.

16. Limit Select

- Choose if TPS or MAP sensor or Both will disable O2 control. If set to Both, then only one condition has to fail for O2 control to be disabled.

17. MAP Limit

- If load select is MAP or both, any MAP senor reading above this value disables O2 control.

18. Throttle Limit

- If load select is TPS or both, any throttle position above this percentage disables O2 control

Regarding open/closed loop situation. If one of these settings are above or below limits the system begins to get reference on a fuel basemap set by a tuner and that would be open loop. If all is within range then you are closed loop.

As I said, Toyota could have different, less or more settings in their own ecu so just keep this info just for your reference on not a 100% info yours works exactly with the same setup.

Cheers

[cali yaris]

There are two types, Wideband and Narrowband. Usually wideband sensors are able to adjust fuel at higher rpm than narrow band

Sensors don't adjust anything?

[eTiMaGo]

I think he meant "detect", in terms of giving more accurate information in order to make adjustments :)

[cali yaris]

Wideband is faster sampling for one thing, therefore more responsive on the gauge. Maybe he meant that.

[cdydjded]

This is the difference between "Wideband & "Narrowband" o2 sensors:

Wideband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge vs. Narrowband Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge

To fully understand why a high performance vehicle tuner would be better off using a wide-band O2 sensor/gauge versus a narrow band setup, we must first understand what each sensor was originally developed to do.

Narrow Band O2 Sensors began to appear on vehicles with the advent of fuel injection in the 1980’s. Their purpose was to monitor component degradation (i.e. fuel injectors, vacuum leaks) of vehicles as they accumulated miles. Their basic job was to let the computer know whether the vehicle was running at an air/fuel ratio of 14.7:1 under idle (ideal ratio for gasoline engines), moderate acceleration, and cruise conditions, and if it wasn’t, to “trim” the injector pulse-width to either slightly lean or richen the engine. When the computer is paying attention to the input from the O2 sensor, the engine is operating in a “closed-loop” capacity. Under heavier acceleration or wide-open throttle the computer ignores the O2 sensor because it requires an air/fuel ratio other than 14.7:1, which is outside the design parameters of the sensor. This is known as “open-loop” operation. The sensor lets the computer know if the engine is running above or below 14.7:1 by sending voltage to the computer in a range between 0 and 1 volt, usually sweeping between the two extremes of this scale. Auto Meter’s traditional narrow-band air/fuel ratio gauges are simply a voltmeter for this signal. This can be seen by the repeated sweeping back and forth of the gauge in most idle, light throttle, and cruise conditions. To summarize, a narrow band O2 sensor is only able to tell a computer (or gauge, for that matter) whether an engine is operating above or below a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio.

Wide Band O2 Sensors where developed in the early ‘90s as vehicle manufacturers began looking to obtain air/fuel ratio information under all circumstances. This ranged from WOT to varying ratios, for example running air/fuel ratios leaner than 14.7:1 under cruise conditions. Volkswagen and Honda pioneered the development of the wide-band O2 sensors to provide accurate air-fuel ratios under these varying circumstances. They did this by broadening the voltage range in which feedback from the sensor was provided and making a linear scale that provided a fixed voltage that correlated to a specific air/fuel ratio.

High performance vehicle tuners discovered that wide-band O2 sensors are very helpful when accurate air/fuel ratio readings are required to maximize power, reliability, and mileage on modified vehicles. With these benefits in mind and to meet consumer demand, Auto Meter has created a wide-band air/fuel ratio gauge/sensor to augment our popular narrow band, gauge only offering. This unit uses the Bosch LSU 4.2 sensor that is known industry wide to be both accurate and durable, along with an advanced control unit that is encased entirely within the gauge head. Further, the gauge head utilizes both an LED readout, for accuracy, and a radial display for ease of reading. Combined with user definable stoichiometric ranges and voltage outputs, Auto Meter’s wide-band gauge creates a useful and greatly needed tool for the tuning market. As an added bonus, Auto Meter will be offering these gauge kits in our most popular gauge lines.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Here's some updates for anyone wondering.

I'm now 100% sure the size of the adapters needed for water cooling are M12x1.25. I'm currently running M12x1.0 with some high temp silicone sealant and I guess it's working.

Believe it or not, but after nearly two weeks of no CELs, P0101 has come back. I've cleared it and it continues to return. Confusing? Yes.

I bought a used AEM meth kit for $180 shipped.
It'll be sitting around for a couple months, but I had money in paypal I needed to spend and that was a decent deal.

This week, I'll be continuing to work with the FIC. The first thing I'm going to do is get the O2 wire hooked up and see how much I can manipulate the signal before I start getting CELs. I've thought about it, and that + a MAF clamp could very well work to get a decent AFR in closed loop.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Worked on the FIC today with nothing but negative results lol. I've decided to wait and tune once I get my meth kit hooked up (which is on its way ), but I need to figure out how I'm doing it still.

But back to the FIC. Obviously, the best case scenario as I mentioned is to get the O2 manipulated. So I hooked up the O21+ wire today (tap AFR sensor signal wire C20-47), and had nothing but problems.

As per AEM guides I tried no resistor, then resistors (in-line, before the tap location). I tried 1k, 5.5k, 11.2k and got nothing but bad results. The car would start, but it would idle very rough. Looking at my scangauge I noticed a NEGATIVE ignition timing, but the car still was able to enter closed loop. Then it started massively richening the mix until the car just stunk of gasoline (maxed at 10 on my UEGO). The resistor value didn't change the results.

The jumper harness still allows the car to run just fine, so the FIC is clearly at fault in some way. Also, I didn't get any codes... Whose got some bright ideas?

[pimp my yaris]

Wish I could help. I removed the top O2 sensor and richened the mixture buy 15% whenever out of boost. And obviously progressively more when in the boost. The car is runing sweet right now with no bumps or jerks and no dying at idle. Also I am in the 11-13:1 range whenever im driving in or out of boost. The car runs so much smoother now. Although I have to deal with check engine light.
I tryed to remove the bulb but their is no bulb. Its a LED soldered on a circuit board. Also that dam annoying seat belt chime is mounted on the back side of the same circuit board.
I did remove the chime but for now I left the LED connected. The light does not bother me. I am just tired of answering questions from people riding in my car. I am also thinking of recirculating those blow off gasses. The car will still dye out sometimes if you let off the gas at full boost and hold the clutch in.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Originally Posted by pimp my yaris

I am also thinking of recirculating those blow off gasses. The car will still dye out sometimes if you let off the gas at full boost and hold the clutch in.

You probably have a huge flame througher out the tail pipe too LOL

[cali yaris]

a little square of black electrical tape, well placed on the gauge cluster will "fix" your CEL, and can be reverted anytime.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I tryed to remove the bulb but their is no bulb. Its a LED soldered on a circuit board. Also that dam annoying seat belt chime is mounted on the back side of the same circuit board.

Couldn't you just cut the trace that powers the bulb?

I'm going to try switching firmwares on the FIC today and see if that does anything...

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Hey guys...

Why the hell is there oil in my intercooler? lol

It's not a lot, and it seems like it's been there for awhile. Could it be from when my return was clogged?

[Bluevitz-rs]

Yeah, either you had blow by from the turbo, or the seals are gone. Clean it up and if it comes back you'll know the seals are done in the turbo. If it stays clean, then it was just that one time.

[cali yaris]

How to clean it up? and he has to clean the piping too right?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

It was pooling in the intercooler, the pipes from what I could tell had an oily feel to them but eh. I think it was just the one time, otherwise I would have at least noticed I was losing a large amount of oil...

[cdydjded]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Hey guys...

Why the hell is there oil in my intercooler? lol

It's not a lot, and it seems like it's been there for awhile. Could it be from when my return was clogged?

If your return was clogged oil from the center housing has only 2 places to go, out the compressor side of the turbo (cold side) or the turbine side (hot side). Apparently it chose the compressor side. Now that is of course if nothing is mechanically wrong with the turbo itself...