I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease - Page 22 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Bluevitz-rs · 10-29-2010, 06:53 PM

AEM

Sold at MI too!

PETERPOOP · 10-29-2010, 11:52 PM

Yes Garm, I mentioned you! My guru. lol. Bring those zage kits in! Let's do this

cali yaris · 10-30-2010, 02:00 AM

haha "Guru", I just learned from other people, I think we all do.

Focus, no one ever asked a question about boost controllers before.

"the truth is out there" -- if you know how to Google.

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-30-2010, 09:40 PM

I have a bit of a conundrum...

My car is stuck in open loop all of the sudden. I have no idea why it is, but now I can't boost because it goes LEAN. Anyone have any ideas why it suddenly decided to stay in open loop? My thought is it has something to do with driving cycles and the ECU seeing boost, as this is the longest I've driven without pulling terminals off the battery. I'm sure I could probably do just that and it would reset, but this is certainly a curious case. No CELs either, and my turbo timer is getting feedback from the AFR sensor still.

Focus_Sh1ft · 10-31-2010, 01:28 PM

Ok this situation is baffling, but incredibly awesome. My car is still doing the same thing. I pulled the AFR plug just to make sure the ECU throws a CEL, and it does. So... Something is happening that's forcing the car into open loop without any CELs! This is an optimal situation, and I wish I could figure out why it's happening for future reference. I have no idea where to even begin looking though.

I'm going to just tune the car instead of resetting the battery. If it swaps back to closed loop at some point - no biggie.

EDIT: As soon as I plugged my FIC back in and started the car, the issue resolved itself. I'm still clueless as to what I just witnessed, but I would love to find out. There must have been some criteria the engine failed to meet to throw itself into closed loop. The catch would seem that whatever it is doesn't cause a code though...

Oh and also - I was reading the service manual and noticed the AFR sensor heater operates between .9 and 10 Amps. A code is thrown if the current drops below .8A. Could it be possible to greatly limit the current that reaches the heater? My thought is that maybe, just maybe, we could limit its performance enough to prevent the AFR sensor from functioning correctly, thus putting the car in open loop.

Focus_Sh1ft · 11-02-2010, 08:08 PM

I'm assuming no one understands what the hell I've been talking about lol.

Anyways, there must be something wrong with my AFR sensor. Started the car up today, and it did the open loop thing. It started open, warmed up, went closed, then around 115F water temp it opened again.

Pulled my FIC bypass plug, put it back in, problem solved. Drove to class and got P2238 when I was almost there. The car went open loop, I cleared the code, and back to closed. On the way home, no code but it just suddenly got stuck in open loop again. The whole thing is so strange, but I can't be bothered with crap like this.

I've pulled my AFR sensor plug and am going to tune the car in open loop. I should have done this awhile ago, instead of messing around with the FIC. This is tried and true, and a CEL that doesn't cause limp isn't the end of the world.

pimp my yaris · 11-02-2010, 09:57 PM

Sounds very similar to my problems. My car stayed in closed loop but my factory O2 sensor was going wacky. While driving it was OK but when hot at idle it was very slow to respond. Sometimes it would go so lean it would dye out. I think the location of the o2 had something to do with it. Mabe if it was located before the turbo it would be OK. I have removed the o2 sensor and tuned in open loop. Much better now. Still need some bigger squirters though.

Focus_Sh1ft · 11-03-2010, 08:57 PM

WOW I should have tuned the car like this sooner. It's soooo easy. Not to mention it does in fact feel like it drives better.

Honestly, I think this is the way most people should consider using. Besides having a constant CEL, the only other very slight downfall is a SMALL loss in fuel economy. If you tune the car around 14.7 out of boost, and richer during boost, the loss will be minimal though.

Also - just got my cheapo manual boost controller today (Joe P, ball and spring type). Since I'm tuning I feel a little more comfortable using it, so I'll install it tomorrow. Should be interesting to see what happens with spooling once I get it set to the right psi.

Will post up my tune once I'm thoroughly satisfied with it. Should be very helpful for all future Zage users, but only if you're tuning the car in open loop.

cali yaris · 11-04-2010, 01:28 AM

^ Excellent! I got five more Zage kits in today.

Freedan · 11-04-2010, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cali yaris

^ Excellent! I got five more Zage kits in today.

Focus_Sh1ft · 11-04-2010, 01:20 PM

So anyone remember how I said the Zage BOV has a sweet, unique sound? No, I was wrong. I have BOV flutter lol... But it sounds soo cool

Currently looking into it... Having flutter means the BOV is set too soft I think?

Bluevitz-rs · 11-04-2010, 03:08 PM

^ so it isn't closing tight enough, right?

PETERPOOP · 11-04-2010, 11:23 PM

I read somewhere that its the air recirculating and pushing the turbo blades backwards. someone was saying that it isn't THAT bad on a small amount of boost?

pimp my yaris · 11-07-2010, 11:12 PM

I think peterpoop is right. The flutter sound is compressor surge [air going back through turbo blades]. IE: the bov may be a little tight. Mine was set to loose and my engine kept dying out because it was leaking out to much metered air and I went way rich. I tightened up the spring and now I get some flutter before I get the air rush sound when it opens. But now it almost never dyes out. I dont think a little flutter will hurt as long as when your on the gas hard you hear it open when you let off. Its hard to imagine the whole automatic trans. situation.

Focus_Sh1ft · 11-12-2010, 01:07 PM

I've been playing around with my manual boost controller the last few days and haven't seen any noticeable improvement in spooling unfortunately, but I'll keep at it.

Was wondering about this though.... If my PCV hose has a kink in it, that would cause blow-by and oil in the intake, right? I'm thinking that's the reason I found oil in the intercooler. Looks like it could also be related to my P0101 code.

cdydjded · 11-12-2010, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

I've been playing around with my manual boost controller the last few days and haven't seen any noticeable improvement in spooling unfortunately, but I'll keep at it.

Was wondering about this though.... If my PCV hose has a kink in it, that would cause blow-by and oil in the intake, right? I'm thinking that's the reason I found oil in the intercooler. Looks like it could also be related to my P0101 code.

A manual boost controller does not improve & was never intended to improve spooling. A MBC is to raise boost period. As for the oil in the I/C, the only way to get oil there is from the outlet of the turbo. You need to thoroughly clean you entire system to pin point exactly where it is coming from. After you clean the system & you find oil again in the I/C, then the problem lies within the turbo itself. I know you have the Zage kit but dont you if you used there pan. If you did, like I said many times before, it doesnt work. If you didnt then there could be problem with either the oil feed you have (too much psi) or the oil return (not flowing enough)....

cdydjded · 11-12-2010, 01:27 PM

Decided to go through the entire post to see if you used the pan, based on what I found on page 7 you did. The pan is the issue, you cant have the oil from the turbo flow back into the engine below the oil level line, it has to be above the oil level line. Your problem of oil in the I/C lies there. Pimp has a similar problem of a small amount of smoke during start up. His return is also below the oil line. Once you guys put the return higher you problem will disappear....

cdydjded · 11-12-2010, 01:32 PM

Left pic incorrect way, pic on right correct way
OilLine2.jpg

10-30-2010, 02:00 AM	#381
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	haha "Guru", I just learned from other people, I think we all do. Focus, no one ever asked a question about boost controllers before. "the truth is out there" -- if you know how to Google. __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

10-31-2010, 01:28 PM	#383
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	Ok this situation is baffling, but incredibly awesome. My car is still doing the same thing. I pulled the AFR plug just to make sure the ECU throws a CEL, and it does. So... Something is happening that's forcing the car into open loop without any CELs! This is an optimal situation, and I wish I could figure out why it's happening for future reference. I have no idea where to even begin looking though. I'm going to just tune the car instead of resetting the battery. If it swaps back to closed loop at some point - no biggie. EDIT: As soon as I plugged my FIC back in and started the car, the issue resolved itself. I'm still clueless as to what I just witnessed, but I would love to find out. There must have been some criteria the engine failed to meet to throw itself into closed loop. The catch would seem that whatever it is doesn't cause a code though... Oh and also - I was reading the service manual and noticed the AFR sensor heater operates between .9 and 10 Amps. A code is thrown if the current drops below .8A. Could it be possible to greatly limit the current that reaches the heater? My thought is that maybe, just maybe, we could limit its performance enough to prevent the AFR sensor from functioning correctly, thus putting the car in open loop. Last edited by Focus_Sh1ft; 11-01-2010 at 12:30 AM.

11-04-2010, 01:28 AM	#387
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	^ Excellent! I got five more Zage kits in today. __________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

11-12-2010, 01:32 PM	#396
cdydjded Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Miami FL Posts: 782	Oil return Left pic incorrect way, pic on right correct way OilLine2.jpg

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10-29-2010, 06:53 PM	#379
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	AEM Sold at MI too!

10-29-2010, 11:52 PM	#380
PETERPOOP View User's Garage Drives: 08 white liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oahu Posts: 3,674	Yes Garm, I mentioned you! My guru. lol. Bring those zage kits in! Let's do this

10-30-2010, 09:40 PM	#382
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	I have a bit of a conundrum... My car is stuck in open loop all of the sudden. I have no idea why it is, but now I can't boost because it goes LEAN. Anyone have any ideas why it suddenly decided to stay in open loop? My thought is it has something to do with driving cycles and the ECU seeing boost, as this is the longest I've driven without pulling terminals off the battery. I'm sure I could probably do just that and it would reset, but this is certainly a curious case. No CELs either, and my turbo timer is getting feedback from the AFR sensor still.

11-02-2010, 08:08 PM	#384
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	I'm assuming no one understands what the hell I've been talking about lol. Anyways, there must be something wrong with my AFR sensor. Started the car up today, and it did the open loop thing. It started open, warmed up, went closed, then around 115F water temp it opened again. Pulled my FIC bypass plug, put it back in, problem solved. Drove to class and got P2238 when I was almost there. The car went open loop, I cleared the code, and back to closed. On the way home, no code but it just suddenly got stuck in open loop again. The whole thing is so strange, but I can't be bothered with crap like this. I've pulled my AFR sensor plug and am going to tune the car in open loop. I should have done this awhile ago, instead of messing around with the FIC. This is tried and true, and a CEL that doesn't cause limp isn't the end of the world.

11-02-2010, 09:57 PM	#385
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	Sounds very similar to my problems. My car stayed in closed loop but my factory O2 sensor was going wacky. While driving it was OK but when hot at idle it was very slow to respond. Sometimes it would go so lean it would dye out. I think the location of the o2 had something to do with it. Mabe if it was located before the turbo it would be OK. I have removed the o2 sensor and tuned in open loop. Much better now. Still need some bigger squirters though.

11-03-2010, 08:57 PM	#386
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	WOW I should have tuned the car like this sooner. It's soooo easy. Not to mention it does in fact feel like it drives better. Honestly, I think this is the way most people should consider using. Besides having a constant CEL, the only other very slight downfall is a SMALL loss in fuel economy. If you tune the car around 14.7 out of boost, and richer during boost, the loss will be minimal though. Also - just got my cheapo manual boost controller today (Joe P, ball and spring type). Since I'm tuning I feel a little more comfortable using it, so I'll install it tomorrow. Should be interesting to see what happens with spooling once I get it set to the right psi. Will post up my tune once I'm thoroughly satisfied with it. Should be very helpful for all future Zage users, but only if you're tuning the car in open loop.

11-04-2010, 01:20 PM	#389
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	So anyone remember how I said the Zage BOV has a sweet, unique sound? No, I was wrong. I have BOV flutter lol... But it sounds soo cool Currently looking into it... Having flutter means the BOV is set too soft I think?

11-04-2010, 03:08 PM	#390
Bluevitz-rs 1NZ-6spd View User's Garage Drives: '05 6-Spd Vitz RS Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oshawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 2,967	^ so it isn't closing tight enough, right?

11-04-2010, 11:23 PM	#391
PETERPOOP View User's Garage Drives: 08 white liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Oahu Posts: 3,674	I read somewhere that its the air recirculating and pushing the turbo blades backwards. someone was saying that it isn't THAT bad on a small amount of boost?

11-07-2010, 11:12 PM	#392
pimp my yaris C'est la vie Drives: 2009 2 door hatchback Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: chicago Posts: 482	I think peterpoop is right. The flutter sound is compressor surge [air going back through turbo blades]. IE: the bov may be a little tight. Mine was set to loose and my engine kept dying out because it was leaking out to much metered air and I went way rich. I tightened up the spring and now I get some flutter before I get the air rush sound when it opens. But now it almost never dyes out. I dont think a little flutter will hurt as long as when your on the gas hard you hear it open when you let off. Its hard to imagine the whole automatic trans. situation.

11-12-2010, 01:07 PM	#393
Focus_Sh1ft Drives: 08 Yaris Turbo; 06 tC Turbo Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 875	I've been playing around with my manual boost controller the last few days and haven't seen any noticeable improvement in spooling unfortunately, but I'll keep at it. Was wondering about this though.... If my PCV hose has a kink in it, that would cause blow-by and oil in the intake, right? I'm thinking that's the reason I found oil in the intercooler. Looks like it could also be related to my P0101 code.

11-12-2010, 01:27 PM	#395
cdydjded Drives: Yaris LB Turbo Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Miami FL Posts: 782	Decided to go through the entire post to see if you used the pan, based on what I found on page 7 you did. The pan is the issue, you cant have the oil from the turbo flow back into the engine below the oil level line, it has to be above the oil level line. Your problem of oil in the I/C lies there. Pimp has a similar problem of a small amount of smoke during start up. His return is also below the oil line. Once you guys put the return higher you problem will disappear....