I NEED Boost... Opinions puh-lease

[yaris2010RS]

from what i have gathered from a mechanic (chrysler but same thing), you will be able to switch it out without issue. if you have keyless entry (lock and/or unlock on your key fob) you may need to reprogram this feature. he said it depends on the specific car. (Im sure CTScott would be able to answer that)

As per the chip key thing, has anyone confirmed that a new ECM would need this programmed in? from what my dash cam caught of My ECM replacement they did not program any keys (nor did they ask/ensure i had all my keys with me). They may have transferred the data off my old one onto my new one but i am not sure

[cali yaris]

Will you smog and pass my car next March?

[Blown_xa]

I should get on here more, I miss a lot and I think I could have helped a while ago. I haven't read everything but kinda glanced at you issue. A stock 1nzfe will blow a rod and crack ringlands way before blowing a head gasket, as result of detonation.
As for your misfire isues, make sure you have plugs gapped to probably .030 in. If you have done that already..... your FIC is faulty or you are in need of a resistor on the crank signal wire on the FIC harness. This was a common issue with running the FIC on a Scion tC a couple years back. Even AEM's own p&p harness needed a resistor wired in, until they got enough phone calls about it.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I've tried both. I can't find anything wrong physically in the FIC harness either. Maybe I should do continuity checks on the connector side?

[yaris2010RS]

^thats very very odd.....

Just a shot in the dark here, try to run on stock injectors and ECM (no FIC). just to rule out injectors and FIC.

Im sorry to say it sounds alot like the issues i was having. check what your blow by pressues are like at the breather tube.

Also im not sure how plausible this is but could you be having an issue with your stock O2 sensor? if not the sensor possibly the wiring touched the exhaust and melted. Possibly try to unplug the O2 to see how the car reacts.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Now that I think about it, I forgot the Yarisworld uses an AFR sensor not an o2 sensor up front. So it might really depend on that sensor to make quick adjustments. If the sensor is indeed out of calibration or reading slow it could be causing the lean rich condition.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Thanks for your thoughts guys.

I do agree it's very possible my afr sensor is bad, but like I've said it's completely irrelevant because open loop is running like garbage. However, I've decided to just get a new one tomorrow and go back to closed loop to continue troubleshooting. I need to eliminate whatever variables I can.

I'm hoping maybe with a new afr sensor and closed loop I'll be able to get the car running good enough to complete a few drive cycles. At this point it looks like I really need code(s) to point me in the right direction.

Just a shot in the dark here, try to run on stock injectors and ECM (no FIC). just to rule out injectors and FIC.

I run stock injectors at all times, and they check out because all four plugs are getting fouled. Also, I don't have a boomslang, so the best I can do is use the bypass plug and take the FIC out of the equation (which I've been doing).

I'll check the breather tube. There hasn't been any smoking out of it though.

Ironic aside: I just made my last payment on the car a week ago. Funny or depressing, you decide.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Here's a summary of what's been done thus far.

x Air induction system --- triple checked
x Injector blockage/leakage --- ALL plugs fouled
x Coils --- throws immediate codes; none thrown
x Plugs --- used three different sets of plugs with varying gaps
x Throttle plate sticking
x MAF meter --- replaced
x ECT sensor --- readings fine
x Gas leakage from exhaust system
x Rear O2 --- pulled; no difference
x PCV hose connections --- no vacuum leaks
x PCV valve
x ECM --- replaced
x Stuck valve --- compression: 195, 195, 205, 205
x FIC --- bypassed or not, runs the same
x Bad gas --- added fuel stabilizer
x A/F sensor (sensor 1) --- replaced
x Integration relay
x Fuel pressure

[Bluevitz-rs]

Do you know for 100% that the ECU isn't still looking at the AFR sensor when in both open or closed loop. Because simply disconnecting it will just cause the sensor input to put into default values.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I can't say for certain, but I've always been under the impression that with the AFR sensor pulled and unplugged, fueling is done using predetermined values based on other sensor data (MAF, ECT, IAT, crank/cam signal, etc.). Scangauge, for whatever reason, doesn't allow you to view A LOT of the OBDII protocol including oxygen sensor information.

[yaris2010RS]

just pull the plug on your 1st O2, im not 100% it doesnt use that reading even in open loop. i would ensure its not reading it.

Injector blockage/leakage --- ALL plugs fouled

what does this mean? are you rulling out injector issues based on the plugs not being fouled? from what your describing, it sounds like it could be an injector sticking issue.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

No, all four plugs are getting fouled. Even though the afrs are running from super rich to super lean, they're generally on the rich side (especially in open loop). There's no way all four injectors are suddenly sticking. I'd also expect to see a slightly higher compression in one cylinder from carbon buildup.

Also, to be clear, when I run open loop my afr sensor is NOT plugged into the harness and NOT downstream. Therefore no values are being read.

Even though the ecm is ruled out, I still can't get over the nagging feeling that this is somehow electrical (I checked all fuses BTW)...

[yaris2010RS]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

No, all four plugs are getting fouled. Even though the afrs are running from super rich to super lean, they're generally on the rich side (especially in open loop). There's no way all four injectors are suddenly sticking. I'd also expect to see a slightly higher compression in one cylinder from carbon buildup.

Also, to be clear, when I run open loop my afr sensor is NOT plugged into the harness and NOT downstream. Therefore no values are being read.

Even though the ecm is ruled out, I still can't get over the nagging feeling that this is somehow electrical (I checked all fuses BTW)...

$130 is alot for a sensor i have a spare one kicking around in my garage LOL, Should have asked man....

Im sorry to try to stick on one thing, but it sounds ALOT like what my car was doing when the ECM was gone......

Have you done a compression test? good place to loose vac is in the cylinders is a leak test on the intake passed. if this was a vac leak on the hose or cracked intake mani i believe you would get a very unpridctible idle (up and down or really high) with the car running spreay some brake cleaner or WD40 or something flamable and controlable to see if your RPMS go up when you spray suspected spots.

Another shot in the dark (im good at these but that doesnt make them useful) have you checked the condition of your turbo? possibly if its in dire need of a rebuild it could be holding up enough back pressure to screw with things. check from intake and exhaust side. also while your at it check the rest of your exhaust system or some sort of blockage (if you have a cat, check it!)

These are all the things i checked on my car. they went the cause but i had convinced myself they could be

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Didn't realize front O2 sensors are $160... For a part I don't even need. Ugh -.-

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

Didn't realize front O2 sensors are $160... For a part I don't even need. Ugh -.-

You can get the generic Denso 2349052 for under $100.

[cali yaris]

Or one off my shelf.

[Golddeenoh]

oh now Garm says he has one. :P

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Bleh, I was using a different denso part number and was only turning up $130 at best. Oh well.

So yeah, no big difference with it in. Car spends a bit more time around stoich but continues to trend toward the lean side. Also, integration relay and PCV valve are fine.

I'm gonna have my mechanic smoke test the intake tomorrow and see if he has any other ideas. I did a typical boost leak test and the intake did hold some pressure, but all symptoms still point to a vacuum leak. Definitely need some peace of mind on this. It's a lot more plausible than something going wrong with a completely stock, completely untouched fuel regulator.

If not, I'm going to drive it enough to complete some drive cycles. I see no other options.