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12-17-2009, 02:08 AM | #37 | |
Drives: 2008 Yaris sedan A/T Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Costa mesa, California
Posts: 353
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Quote:
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12-17-2009, 02:10 AM | #38 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris sedan A/T Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Costa mesa, California
Posts: 353
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What about the high milage oil? Would be that good for old engine and what is the difference on the regular oil?
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12-17-2009, 01:19 PM | #39 | |
Drives: '09 Yaris carmine red 2d HB Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Middletown, NY
Posts: 1,502
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It's really nothing special and it is just a marketing gimmick. |
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12-17-2009, 05:20 PM | #40 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris sedan A/T Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Costa mesa, California
Posts: 353
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Thank you, I will stick w/ my regular oil cause to what I read before the detergent makes the sludge.
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12-17-2009, 05:47 PM | #41 |
Only Happy When it Rains
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The problem with synthetic oils in older cars is they clean everything out too well. So then you get every single leak that normal dino oil filled in leaking all at the same time.
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Colin Chapman disciple |
12-27-2009, 12:29 PM | #42 | |
Drives: 2010 Toyota Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 82
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Quote:
A pair of 2001 SL-1s (one auto and one manual) and my '93 Saturn SC2. All three of them burn a quart of non-synthetic 5W-30 a month, I'd think with synthetic clearing out all the sludge, it would be even worse.. If it wasn't for my tranny dieing on my '93 Saturn SC2 at 123,000 miles, I'd still be riding it around today.. Looks like the tranny is dieing on my dad's 2001 SL1 as well at around 145,000 miles... My dad is VERY rough on automatics, always forces a downshift when he comes up to a stop light and really doesn't use the brakes much.. I tell him not to do it and he yells at me that I don't know what I'm talking about and says it doesn't hurt anything.. Oh well, all of our Automatic saturns now have tranny issues. My Saturn SC2 started refusing to downshift manually and then it lost 5th gear altogether and would always go straight into neutral after about 45MPH until slowed down to about 20MPH.. Still, Saturns have great engines in them.. My mom's manual Saturn SL1 is coming up on 200,000 miles and aside from new rotors, break pads, and a starter, it has had almost no problems. Running regular non-synthetic 5W-30 all the way.. /rant |
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12-27-2009, 12:44 PM | #43 |
I love momentum.
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Do not go back to the shop that told you that.
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12-05-2011, 07:37 PM | #44 | |
I've made a post!
Drives: Chevy Aveo Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Iraq
Posts: 1
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Quote:
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12-05-2011, 09:07 PM | #45 |
Drives: 2010 Yaris HB Blazin' Blue Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Leland, NC
Posts: 444
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Exactly right, Amsoil recommends using their engine flush first before even pouring in the first quart. Most cars never get the proper service, so all kinds of bad things show up.
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racerb '86 Celica GT '87 Celica GT-S '98 Rav4L '01 Tundra SR5 |
02-19-2015, 02:39 PM | #46 |
Drives: 07' Yaris S & 89' Mazda 323 LX Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Trinidad and Tobago
Posts: 37
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Hi i noticed your message signature.
I would like to use syntec oil, but as a way to save money as this will extend my oil change time, i currently change my oil at 5000km (dusty roads,day temp avg 31 deg c) with syntec i believe i can go for 10,000 saving me money for oil filters and also time (as i change oil myself) My yaris takes a little under 4 qts of oil - 4 qt of castrol 10w 30 dino oil is $30 US - 4 qt castrol 10w 30 full syntec $53 US Since i'll be doing 2 dino oil changes in the same amount of time (10,000km) i'll have to buy 8 qts dino oil totaling $60 US as compared to $53 US for the full syntec during the same period (10,000) also i will have to purchase and extra oil filter ($20US) and my time to change it. so the syntec works out for me
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"Cooler than the other side of the pillow" |
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