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11-20-2009, 03:37 PM | #37 |
What?
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,006
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I'm gonna bet the primary effect in play here is the "toe curve" of the rear suspension. It's designed to be slightly toed in at the factory ride height, and as the suspension compresses in a turn, it toes in a little more for stability. This effect is all built into the rear axle assembly and the angles at which it rotates. So, by changing to the upper holes on a lowered car, you're effectively putting things back into the alignment they were designed for.
To verify this, someone should carefully measure their rear toe before and after making this change. If I'm right, you should see less static toe out after than before. |
11-22-2009, 10:04 AM | #38 |
Drives: 2008 Polar White LB Auto Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 1,238
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Thanks for the finding! I'm curious though, what exactly is the benefit/gain of doing this procedure? I'm not quite sure I completely get what the end result is. Also, any negatives to it?
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11-22-2009, 11:53 AM | #39 | |
Apexing Egg!!
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Quote:
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HighTach Motorsports 2007 Toyota Yaris-ARGH!! Mods: Tokico HTS, 6.6 kg F, 6.1 kg R custom springs, 23 mm RSB, 2-way TRD LSD, 15x7 +25 Team Dynamic wheels, 195/55/15 Dunlop Star Specs, Cobra Suzuka S |
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11-22-2009, 01:05 PM | #40 | |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
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Quote:
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Last edited by YarisSedan; 11-22-2009 at 01:22 PM. |
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11-23-2009, 05:32 PM | #41 |
Drives: 2008 Polar White LB Auto Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 1,238
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Thanks for the finding! I'm curious though, what exactly is the benefit/gain of doing this procedure? I'm not quite sure I completely get what the end result is. Also, any negatives to it?
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11-23-2009, 05:39 PM | #42 | |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
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Quote:
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
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11-23-2009, 06:35 PM | #43 |
Drives: 07 Bitchin Blue HB Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: AZ
Posts: 106
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Getting ready to put some DF springs on. Should I move them to the upper hole during the install? Where do you guys trust to do the alignments? I hate going to shops and have to explain to them how to do their job.
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11-23-2009, 07:09 PM | #44 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
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Did you hand torque it down or just hit it with a breaker bar as hard as you could? I am guessing it should be torqued to about 145ft lbs. And maybe some threadlocker for some extra insurance. I am going to do this at home on my driveway hopefully tonight. Usually i hit everything down with a impact gun but by hand i like to get torque specs to be on the safe side.
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11-23-2009, 07:22 PM | #45 | |
Start another Oil Thread!
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that's some serious torque there ...
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11-23-2009, 08:43 PM | #46 |
What?
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,006
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Those pivot bolts don't need to be super-tight. The factory manual is available online, though... look it up!
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11-23-2009, 09:47 PM | #47 |
Drives: 2008 Polar White LB Auto Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 1,238
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Is there some reason my question has been skipped over twice so far? Just curious.
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11-23-2009, 11:42 PM | #48 |
Ecurie Snoopy Lives
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If you read above Lorens Posts
"I'm gonna bet the primary effect in play here is the "toe curve" of the rear suspension. It's designed to be slightly toed in at the factory ride height, and as the suspension compresses in a turn, it toes in a little more for stability. This effect is all built into the rear axle assembly and the angles at which it rotates. So, by changing to the upper holes on a lowered car, you're effectively putting things back into the alignment they were designed for." And on the previous pages you'll get an idea of how it adjusts the suspension geometry When you lower the suspension in the front you can get bump steer. There are devices to install in the front to adjust and compensate for this. This is something akin to that but in the rear suspension where you level out the torsion beam and realign the toe. I guess an illustration would be the best way to describe this.
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11-24-2009, 01:43 AM | #49 |
What?
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,006
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Um, yeah. I may not have addressed you by name, but your question has been answered. Read.
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11-24-2009, 02:32 AM | #50 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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I took your advice and looked it up. For those who are interested the factory spec is exactly 67 ft lbs.
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11-24-2009, 02:36 AM | #51 |
Drives: '14 GT86, '08 Vitz Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central Valley, CA
Posts: 9,873
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Dang, my crappy torque wrench doesn't go that high =(
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11-24-2009, 03:04 AM | #52 | |
Start another Oil Thread!
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certainly does not need to. i removed my rear axle over 5 years ago and never used a torque wrench to re-install it. "tight" worked just fine.
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11-24-2009, 03:17 AM | #53 |
Banned
Drives: yw calls me douche and racist. Join Date: Aug 2007
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Posts: 2,183
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So whats the end end of this?
Raise the bolt location then X happens? Idk if people think a stable rear is better for handling? I'd assume that having a happier rear end, or a rear end with a TOE OUT setting is better for turning? That would also make the rear end feel like its gonna get in front of you, right? Ahh, Loren, help me out. |
11-24-2009, 03:35 AM | #54 |
Drives: car Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: location
Posts: 1,033
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I would assume then this is for the Japanese following of the car for when it's lowered and being raced? Seems easy enough for me... Drill an extra hole for people who want to race it and leave one for the stock height...
Too bad it took us forever to find it =( |
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