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10-15-2010, 01:42 PM | #55 | |
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Conn 4A 4B.jpg For the windows, you can use those same wires if your system has the auto roll up feature. Just make sure that it is rated for high current (20+A) or else you will need relays. For the horn, the black wire on the spiral cable connector is definitely it, and it is definitely negative switched. Check your tap to make sure it bit all the way in. |
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10-15-2010, 01:47 PM | #56 | |
Drives: 2008 Yaris S Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Georgia
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10-15-2010, 02:05 PM | #57 | |
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I have an 08 Sedan fuse box on my test bench, and I also see the missing wire in 4A-20 (which the EWD for an 08 sedan says should be there). Those two wires are actually tied together as a single input into the ECM, so you probably only need the yellow and that is probably the reason for the lacking blue. |
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10-16-2010, 09:56 PM | #58 | |
Drives: 2008 Yaris S Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 9
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Quote:
So...I am going to have to connect all the door and truck triggers together. Got to thinking though, when I do this - the Driver Info Center is going to show all doors opened when only one actually is... Do you know if I could place a diode in line with each of the taps before I tie them together to prevent the problem caused by just tying them all together - to maintain the integrity of each circuit? Will a diode pass the negative/ground provided by the switching? |
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10-16-2010, 10:01 PM | #59 | |
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10-16-2010, 10:09 PM | #60 | |
Drives: 2008 Yaris S Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Georgia
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Think it would be a little easier than soldering in diodes... http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=14 |
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10-16-2010, 10:12 PM | #61 | |
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11-11-2010, 01:12 PM | #62 |
Drives: 2007 4dr Sedan Silver Streak Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 73
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Hi CTScott, I got the Ultra Star 1155 and it wants two 30amp + power inputs, is there a second + I can grab inside the car?
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11-11-2010, 02:10 PM | #63 |
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11-11-2010, 03:01 PM | #64 |
Drives: 2007 4dr Sedan Silver Streak Join Date: May 2010
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They are both marked "30amp input Constant 12volt power at ignition harness."
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11-11-2010, 03:27 PM | #65 |
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OK - Tie both to the constant power point that I show on the under dash fuse panel. On the Yaris, everything that the remote starter is switching is low current. On some cars, the ignition switch directly switches the starter solenoid, so the remote starters have the high current feeds for that reason.
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11-12-2010, 11:04 AM | #66 |
Drives: 2007 4dr Sedan Silver Streak Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 73
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I can't seem to find a lock or unlock pulse. That connector in the kick panel doesn't provide anything... in fact I had the whole connector out and the remote locks still worked... Anyway, is there someplace else I can find a lock or unlock pulse? I prefer - but can deal with +. Thanks again.
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11-12-2010, 11:39 AM | #67 | |
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11-12-2010, 12:09 PM | #69 |
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OK - looks like a misprint in the service manual (and not the first that I've run into), as that bottom connector is definitely GD1.
Measure the voltage on the blue wire on the bottom row (next to the large orange) while locking/unlocking with your keyfob. If that wire's voltage doesn't change when the lock clicks, then you may have to use the large orange (lock motor power) or pink (unlock motor power) for your lock/unlock detection. |
11-12-2010, 12:30 PM | #70 |
Drives: 2007 4dr Sedan Silver Streak Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montreal, Canada
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I the blue wire drops 1/10 of a volt when I lock/unlock. The large pink and orange wires cause my remote starter to blink the park lights incessantly, are they a + or - pulse?
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11-12-2010, 12:37 PM | #71 |
Drives: 2007 4dr Sedan Silver Streak Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 73
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Looking at page 193 of the wiring diagrams, could I take a + pulse off connector 4H pin 8?
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11-12-2010, 01:07 PM | #72 |
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