How do I cure a lean condition?

[largeorangefont]

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

I'll try to do a better job next time. Thanks.

No problem, you just have a like a 30 # boost gauge

[LtNoogie]

I was seeing ign timing dropping to single digits under boost this evening.

[largeorangefont]

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

I was seeing ign timing dropping to single digits under boost this evening.

Yea, the car is fine then... Don't loose any sleep over it.

[kurokoma-kun]

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

I was seeing ign timing dropping to single digits under boost this evening.

Originally Posted by largeorangefont

Yea, the car is fine then... Don't loose any sleep over it.

Lieutenant, your readings indicate a warp core breach is imminent... you've got to shut down the reactor now, then run a level 3 diagnostic on the matter/antimatter reaction control system

sorry Long, not to make light of your concerns, I've just been wanting to say that to you for some time and now seemed like the right moment

[KCALB SIRAY]

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

I was seeing ign timing dropping to single digits under boost this evening.

Originally Posted by kurokoma-kun

Lieutenant, your readings indicate a warp core breach is imminent... you've got to shut down the reactor now, then run a level 3 diagnostic on the matter/antimatter reaction control system

sorry Long, not to make light of your concerns, I've just been wanting to say that to you for some time and now seemed like the right moment

See Long, and you make fun of me when I speak Klingon

[rpalai]

I have to agree with the comments posted by most of the members. Slightly larger injectors, or is there any way of possibly increasing fuel pressure to the injectors under boost to a higher level than the controller is allowing? Perhaps an Apexi-II unit or something similar that can work alongside the Blitz fuel controller? This lean condition is a real concern and has to be fixed! If it is happening in your car, it most likely is happening to everyone who has this system installed, like me! This will probably be an interesting and do-able fix, hopefully. Thanks! RPALAI

[cali yaris]

would be pretty easy to throw a set of Scion tC injectors (about a hundred bucks on eBay) and see what happens.

[largeorangefont]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

would be pretty easy to throw a set of Scion tC injectors (about a hundred bucks on eBay) and see what happens.

That would be the worst thing he could do at this point. If he is seeing single digits for timing under load, he does not want to add more fuel.

[LtNoogie]

I tried to make a video last night while driving and hand holding the camera. Not recommended. I'll install the camera mount tonight and shoot another video.

[LtNoogie]

The video was too shaky to post.

[PETERPOOP]

I'd like to chime in with my a/f readings, but I don't got a wideband a/f gauge yet. However, it is true that I have not experienced pre-ignition. But, I did put in lucas oil's octane booster with shell's 92 before i got the kit installed and running. I'm not sure if this is preventing the pre-ignition, but I am not experiencing any. I don't know if I don't use the boost octane if I will experience it or not, but I don't plan on not using the boost octane for a long time.

I'm also not experiencing the noise that occurs when the car is in idle and the a/c is on. I don't know if I have a lucky kit, or a newer kit, or what not, but my kit seems to run flawless as of now. We'll see if the story changes once I see my a/f readings.

[rpalai]

Hello again all! Hope you are all doing well. Unfortunately, I am not! My car ran GREAT from the moment the Blitz system was installed as well as all last night and early this morning until the very last time I started it up, it threw a code and the check engine light came on. When I hook up my scanner, it shows the code as "pending" which probably is why it keeps doing it even after I clear the code with my scanner. Can someone help me with this? Whenever it throws the code, it goes into "limp mode" and becomes rather doggy of course. It is showing code P01387 which means that "voltage too high in 02 sensor 1 Bank 2", or something like that. Now I know that my mechanic told me that he had a problem getting the old 02 sensor out of the factory exhaust header to transfer it over to the new Meagan Racing header, but he WAS able to do it after he had to soak it in a LOT of PV Blaster penetrating oil for awhile. But that was now a couple of days ago and all of the PVBlaster should have burned off the 02 sensor by now, unless perhaps it destroyed it in the process? I can not figure this out. I am really bummed now becuase every time I start the car, it throws the same darned code and goes into limp mode again.

Can anyone please help me with this? Thanks!
Rich
rpalai

[kurokoma-kun]

Here's what the repair manual has to say about P0138, O2 sensor high voltage:

"...when the air-fuel ratio is richer than the stoichiometric air-fuel level, the oxygen concentration in the exhaust gas becomes lean. The HO2 sensor informs the ECM that the post-TWC air-fuel ratio is rich (high voltage, i.e. more than 0.45 V). The HO2 sensor has the property of changing its output voltage drastically when the air-fuel ratio is close to the stoichiometric level."

So IMO he'll be wanting to pinpoint the cause of the extremely rich air-fuel ratio (injectors, fuel pressure, exhaust leak, etc.) in addition to checking the sensor itself.

You can find the entire Engine Control manual and many others here, hosted by our own etimago --> http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/

PS-- you may get better response if you start your own thread for issues like this it's too important to get buried among other info.

[largeorangefont]

Noogie,

What we need you do do is to do a WOT pull to redline from around 2000 RPM in 2nd.

Strap that camera down :)

Again, from the shots you provided I don't think you have anything to worry about.

[whooppee777]

Originally Posted by largeorangefont

Again, from the shots you provided I don't think you have anything to worry about.

those are about the same readings i get.

if the lights on the gauge read 14ish and the lights around the edges are still in the green then ur mixture is good. right?

[largeorangefont]

Originally Posted by whooppee777

those are about the same readings i get.

if the lights on the gauge read 14ish and the lights around the edges are still in the green then ur mixture is good. right?

Not necessarily. If you timing is in the single digits, then yea it is probably OK. If not, those numbers are not OK.

[PETERPOOP]

Originally Posted by largeorangefont

Noogie,

What we need you do do is to do a WOT pull to redline from around 2000 RPM in 2nd.

Strap that camera down :)

Again, from the shots you provided I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Did you ever do this?

[LtNoogie]

No. I'm built a new camera mount but the digital camera died. I'm going to get some data logging software to collect data a little bit better than shaky videos.