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[ilikerice]

I am so jelly

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

I am so jelly

I want to leave work NOW and install this.

So if anyone is wondering, it does not look like the 9.5 Jun cams is a direct bolt-in, some machine work is needed.

Relief cuts for the cam:

[ilikerice]

Interesting.. thanks. I was curious. I am 5'10/11 depending who I stand next to. I was skeptical about buying a carbon fiber seat like the one you have in the picture. Looking over the dash was my issue being that I autocross. I will look at that video when I get home.. work doesnt permit youtube

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

Interesting.. thanks. I was curious. I am 5'10/11 depending who I stand next to. I was skeptical about buying a carbon fiber seat like the one you have in the picture. Looking over the dash was my issue being that I autocross. I will look at that video when I get home.. work doesnt permit youtube

In an autocross car I sit much closer to the wheel and up higher, you need to see the cones.

[racerb]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

Interesting.. thanks. I was curious. I am 5'10/11 depending who I stand next to. I was skeptical about buying a carbon fiber seat like the one you have in the picture. Looking over the dash was my issue being that I autocross. I will look at that video when I get home.. work doesnt permit youtube

I'm 5'11" myself and have alway mounted my seats as low as possible for road racing, it does make it difficult to auto-x, but you learn to adapt. Here are a few pics of the way I mounted the seat in my Celica, using brackets I made myself.





Oh and as you can see, I still have the front portion of the cage to add, installed just the rollbar for my own peace of mind for HPDE events.

racerb

[cali yaris]

I am 5'10/11 depending who I stand next to.

I like how that is a relative thing.

thanks for discussing this guys. I used a few washers to lower my steering wheel a bit. Any more and my left knee would hit it.

[ilikerice]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

I like how that is a relative thing.

thanks for discussing this guys. I used a few washers to lower my steering wheel a bit. Any more and my left knee would hit it.

That is a good idea.. you talking about those bolts circled in the diagram? did you have to get longer bolts, or was there enough to thread left?

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

That is a good idea.. you talking about those bolts circled in the diagram? did you have to get longer bolts, or was there enough to thread left?

I did the same thing with mine before I went to a custom setup, as I recall there was enough thread there to drop it a 1/2".

[ilikerice]

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

I did the same thing with mine before I went to a custom setup, as I recall there was enough thread there to drop it a 1/2".

if you dont mind me asking, what needed to be done to that to make it custom fit for you?

Also, is it custom in the fact that it was fabricated or parts were exchanged with other oem parts from other makes/models?

again if I am stepping out of the bounds on your secrets I totally understand

[racerb]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

if you dont mind me asking, what needed to be done to that to make it custom fit for you?

Also, is it custom in the fact that it was fabricated or parts were exchanged with other oem parts from other makes/models?

again if I am stepping out of the bounds on your secrets I totally understand

Not sure of Jason's set-up, but I'm using a straight section of what is called double D steering shaft, cut to proper length with the quick release center section welded on. In my case the original column both tilted and telescoped, so I'm going back to the last flex joint before it turns down toward the firewall base. Where the original large centering bearing also held the telescoping handle, I've come out about 2" and added a 3/4" male hiem joint which hold the steering shaft and lines it up more with my seating possition in the car. When I installed my seat, I moved it to the right as far as the center tunnel would allow, making the steering wheel slightly too far to the left.

racerb

[33OH]

Already received my SSK I bought off you Jason - thanks so much! Didn't even know it was possible to ship that fast..

[ilikerice]

interesting..

I dont mean to hijack your thread Jason.

I think I understand what your saying racerb, but could you PM me a picture of that setup. I am curious. Also that moving the seat further to the shifter is a good idea too. It would make shifting a bit more comfortable

[racerb]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

interesting..

I dont mean to hijack your thread Jason.

I think I understand what your saying racerb, but could you PM me a picture of that setup. I am curious. Also that moving the seat further to the shifter is a good idea too. It would make shifting a bit more comfortable

Sorry for continueing the hijack, but couldn't find any pictures of my steering column set-up. So here is a very simular set-up to mine on an MG, same basic deal hung verticle where mine hangs horizontal.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...9QEwAw&dur=180

racerb

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by racerb

Sorry for continueing the hijack, but couldn't find any pictures of my steering column set-up. So here is a very simular set-up to mine on an MG, same basic deal hung verticle where mine hangs horizontal.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...9QEwAw&dur=180

racerb

Similar to mine as well. Splined shaft with a quick release welded on. Simple, much lighter than stock, and further reduced the steering effort.

[Jason@SportsCar]

Progress... Loynings head with Jun cams mated to the block. If I did not like my neighbors I would fire it up and do the break-in tonight. It will just have to sit till the weekend.

[Jason@SportsCar]

The results are in, the Jun cams are an improvement over the custom grind we had done for the 2010 season, but they are not magic.

With the combination of head work and cams we picked up 12hp when compared to the stock engine we ran in 2011. However, just like with the custom grind cams we lost Tq below 5000rpm when compared to the stock engine - fortunately in this case we only lost 3ft-lbs, where the 2010 cams lost around 18ft-lbs.

While I was not jumping for joy at the final numbers, I was happy to see the top end power match our 2010 numbers, while regaining most of our lost Tq. Additionally, the power band with the Jun cams is much broader than the custom grind was, we have nearly 1000 more usable RPMs than we did before. From 5500rpm on we have more HP and Tq than either of the previous setups offered, and the power delivery is smooth.

If you are thinking about the Jun 9.5 cams keep in mind these are not a direct bolt-in. Your head will need relief cuts to clear the lobes, and without engine management you will not see the full gains.

Overall I give them a thumbs up, but expect to spend about $2k between the cams and head work.

[racerb]

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

The results are in, the Jun cams are an improvement over the custom grind we had done for the 2010 season, but they are not magic.

With the combination of head work and cams we picked up 12hp when compared to the stock engine we ran in 2011. However, just like with the custom grind cams we lost Tq below 5000rpm when compared to the stock engine - fortunately in this case we only lost 3ft-lbs, where the 2010 cams lost around 18ft-lbs.

While I was not jumping for joy at the final numbers, I was happy to see the top end power match our 2010 numbers, while regaining most of our lost Tq. Additionally, the power band with the Jun cams is much broader than the custom grind was, we have nearly 1000 more usable RPMs than we did before. From 5500rpm on we have more HP and Tq than either of the previous setups offered, and the power delivery is smooth.

If you are thinking about the Jun 9.5 cams keep in mind these are not a direct bolt-in. Your head will need relief cuts to clear the lobes, and without engine management you will not see the full gains.

Overall I give them a thumbs up, but expect to spend about $2k between the cams and head work.

As a long time racer of low horsepower front drive cars, any gains with restrictive rules are a real plus. Learning how to get the most out of the loose nut behind the wheel, can actually make the biggest difference. Just look back in history at what those early racers did with the first Mini Coopers, cars that might have had 40 hp and tiny, skinny as hell tires. When you get to the point where your getting the most out of you the driver, then horsepower numbers aren't as big a factor in all out speed!!

racerb

[cali yaris]

I heard good things happened this weekend...