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11-25-2009, 06:51 PM | #73 |
pic of my rear wheel after spacer install.
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11-25-2009, 06:52 PM | #74 |
Maybe the suspension expert himself can shed some light on this :) I just don't want to spend 2 hours doing this just for it to make my rear rub worse.
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11-25-2009, 07:10 PM | #75 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: San Jose, CA, USA
Posts: 685
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Last night, I was installing my new wheels, took the car for a test ride and when I got back I looked at it from behind very carefully. I might be wrong, but I swear I can tell the toe-in on the rear wheels. If you look carefully, along the tire walls, trying to align one edge with the opposite edge, looking along the vehicle, in a horizontal line, right above the center hub, you will see that the imaginary line hits the body somewhere in the front, it doesn't stay parallel to the centerline. And I noticed that with the axle mounted on the higher bolt. Imagine how much more toe-in you get on the lower bolt, since turning the axle forwards would probably increase the toe-in angle even more...
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11-25-2009, 07:26 PM | #76 |
Yeah I am starting to think this mod may be the exact opposite of what I need to do for my rubbing issue
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11-25-2009, 07:37 PM | #77 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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Yeah looking at my tire after this mod. Instead of it being centered between both sides of the fender its leaning more towards the back fender. So if thast the area you are rubbing against it will make your situation worse.
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11-25-2009, 07:51 PM | #78 | |
What?
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Safety Harbor, FL
Posts: 1,006
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Quote:
Pick a groove on the tire, measure from side to side at the front of the tire, as high up as you can get without interference. Measure the same grooves at the back of the tire. Difference = toe. Narrower in front = toe-in. This won't give you exact numbers, as you can't get measurements at exactly the vertical center of the wheel, and you're potentially dealing with some tread flex, etc. But, it's close enough to get an idea of what's going on. |
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11-25-2009, 07:58 PM | #79 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: San Jose, CA, USA
Posts: 685
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I agree, and what I'm trying to say is that it would be MUCH WORSE (as in more toe-in) if you DID NOT do this mod for a lowered car...
I am just trying to confirm the theory on this thread with my empirical observations.
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11-25-2009, 08:00 PM | #80 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: San Jose, CA, USA
Posts: 685
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Yes, this might not be the solution to the rubbing issue, but it is the right solution for keeping the toe-in closer to factory spec after lowering.
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11-26-2009, 12:28 AM | #81 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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Whenever i go over bumps now my rear axle slams against this tie bar. I tried to sand down the horrible welds so it is pretty much smooth and even then there is still banging. Sadly i either have to take it off or put the axle back to the factory position =(
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11-27-2009, 12:06 AM | #82 |
Drives: 2008 Polar White LB Auto Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 1,238
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So is it the general consensus that this is a good mod to do if your vehicle is lowered? That's what I'm getting but want to be sure. From that drawn diagram on one of the pages, it looks like with a lowered vehicle that by putting it up on the top bolt hole, it's putting things near back the stock suspension position. If that's the case, why would that be more beneficial than leaving it in the bottom hole and having the rear toe changed?
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11-27-2009, 12:11 AM | #83 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: San Jose, CA, USA
Posts: 685
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I thought you couldn't change the rear toe on the Yaris...
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11-27-2009, 12:13 AM | #84 |
Drives: 2007 Yaris LB Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: San Jose, CA, USA
Posts: 685
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11-27-2009, 12:15 AM | #85 |
Banned
Drives: yw calls me douche and racist. Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: hay
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http://shop.microimageonline.com/pro...7&categoryId=4
And I don't think it really matters if springs are upsidedown or not. |
11-27-2009, 12:55 AM | #86 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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Are they? Yeah i dont think its possible really to install them upside down since they will function the same way still. But that could explain why i get some creaking noise occasionally while others do not with the same springs.
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11-27-2009, 01:05 AM | #87 |
JDM Fred
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Aren't those stock shocks? that would be one of the reasons why your car would be hitting that brace imo
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11-27-2009, 02:23 AM | #88 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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Yeah changing to tokiko shocks is on my list of things to do.
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11-27-2009, 11:30 AM | #89 |
Drives: 2008 Polar White LB Auto Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Metro Detroit
Posts: 1,238
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So I woke up this morning and I guess almost instinctual, I set out to the garage and grabbed the tools to do the job. I'd definately have to say that having two people is much easier (it always is usually anyways when it comes to cars) but it's not too bad if your going solo. The hardest part, like someone else mentioned, was the rear bushing. It was a pain in the rump to try and line it up just right so you could start threading the bolt through all the way.
I took it for a quick test drive after I was finished and for me speaking, I can think of a few choice words to sum up my initial impressions. Refined, smooth and reactive. It reminds me alot of the stock suspension ride, how it's calm and smooth feeling. All of that feeling now with the lowered suspension components. It certainly feels more "planted" in the rear with even less boat motion feeling. The turning feedback definately increased has well. I jerked the steering wheel side to side to see what it would do, and it reacted quick and precise. Much better than when the rear axle beam was in the lower position. One thing I noticed though is that the rear certainly doesn't appear to be lower or any of that. If anything, it almost looks like it's a slight pinch higher. Could be just a mind trick since the axle beam is tucked up underneath a bit more and it allows to see more space under the car. Also, I don't really see any difference in the tire being more "towards the rear". Looks the same gap to me towards front or rear of the fender. Another thing I'd be a little concerned with is taking the time to adjust to how it drives now. The steering and reaction during my quick test drive is much nicer feeling and quicker, better handling...but along with that, I believe you could get yourself into some trouble if it's wet or slick out. I'm concerned about a more likely possibility of snap oversteer if you jerked or steered too suddenly. It's a given though that anytime someone changes a part on a car that alters it's powertrain or suspension, that the person takes it easy so they can learn what is different and how it reacts. Too many countless stories of some kid that throws a turbo on a Civic and goes out that night to get it on. Ends up crashing the car because it's completely different than what it used to be and the driver had no idea how to react. Essentially, the car is NOT the same car as what you used to drive. Be safe out there. Last edited by detroiter; 11-27-2009 at 01:05 PM. |
11-27-2009, 02:12 PM | #90 | |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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Quote:
All i know is my car just got really a lot lot more fun ot drive
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