Dashboard Clock goes off?

[sven337]

It's a buck module, not a linear power supply, you can adjust it without a load.
The VFD is only useful for testing, if you're doing my repair you don't need it you just need to set up the buck module for about 1.5V.

Removing the SMT components is easy. Chisel tip, 30W or more, add a bunch of leaded solder, heat up like crazy (you don't care you're removing everything) and the transistors will slide right off.

As for the VFD socket, I actually soldered the output lead of the buck module to the base of the VFD connector. Not soldering sounded like a potential issue with vibration.

[adsb]

Right hand drive model repaired, thanks to sven337 for the instructions.

Photos of MP1584EN device, testing with DMM to obtain correct output of 1.5v, more photos of the existing transistors and after removal (a few pads came off in the process) , close ups of buck regulator in situ and wiring to pin 1 of VFD connector.

I disconnected the battery negative terminal before removing cluster.
Used a 12v 1.2ah battery from commercial intruder alarm panel as poor mans lab psu for testing.

I noted that there were 5 transistors not 6 for my model.
That ribbon cable is a right PITA to get back in to the slot and close the latch on the connector !

Sorry if the photos are in the incorrect order.

Thanks again sven337 !

[sven337]

Thank you for the excellent pictures that will, no doubt, help people implement the fix.

[NOLF]

Sorry but i can find dashboard pinout, can you post it for me. I can't test me dash, i don't no where is positive and negative.

[sven337]

https://perso.aquilenet.fr/~sven337/...test_setup.jpg
+12V top right
GND bottom left

[sven337]

Someone asked me to repair their clock, I took a better picture of the fix + the test setup.

[Sumi]

Is there anyone out there who managed to fix it by replacing the transistors? I'd need the dimming feature.

[Sumi]

Okay, so I've pulled it apart today and resoldered the transistors, as mentioned by a comment on sven337's page. I don't know if this will last, because when I start the car the clock display comes on pretty slowly, which tells me that something isn't quite right, although I don't remember how it used to be. But at least it works for now.

@sven337, do you think that there is any risk of fire when the transistors die? I can imagine there is quite some heat if it's enough to make the PCB turn brown on the other side.

[worm6666]

Hi folks.

I have another option - after successful measuring of all transistors - all were good - I cleaned the paths and returned back originals... And it works again.

And have created a cooling pad - from aluminium piece of thin sheet connected with heat conductive paste to transistors - like for pc repairs











hope it helps somebody...

It looks like only the soldering under the marked 3 transistors were burned...

[bubinio]

Hi guys,

I tried sven337 solution but with 1,5V the clock is not bright at all. When i adjust it at about 2,7V to be brighter then the red lines appear. When the lights are turned on, the clock is not readable!

Great work though for sven337 and all the rest!!

[Sumi]

Originally Posted by Sumi

Okay, so I've pulled it apart today and resoldered the transistors, as mentioned by a comment on sven337's page. I don't know if this will last, because when I start the car the clock display comes on pretty slowly, which tells me that something isn't quite right, although I don't remember how it used to be. But at least it works for now.

@sven337, do you think that there is any risk of fire when the transistors die? I can imagine there is quite some heat if it's enough to make the PCB turn brown on the other side.

Died today again.

Any ideas how to do the boost converter mod with retaining the dimming feature?

[krume]

Originally Posted by worm6666

Hi folks.

I have another option - after successful measuring of all transistors - all were good - I cleaned the paths and returned back originals... And it works again.

And have created a cooling pad - from aluminium piece of thin sheet connected with heat conductive paste to transistors - like for pc repairs











hope it helps somebody...

It looks like only the soldering under the marked 3 transistors were burned...

Hi worm6666, I like Your solution, I would put even more robust heatsink. Is it working still?

[krume]

Hi guys,

I will try worm6666 solution and update here for result.

[worm6666]

I have made some modification - the GLUE-GUN version was not good - it was falling apart after heating itself from transistors - also I have made some steel clips (from paper-clips) covered with thermal shrinking tubes (to prevent shorts)... easy solution holding all parts together also on higher temperatures...



- and like You can see - under whole heatsink is thermal-conducting pad (Aliexpress buy) :-)

[krume]

Like!

[krume]

I think I fix it for good.
Changed transistors with more powerful one, I used 2SB1516, any PNP 1A, 1~2W would do. Used thermal conducting material and aluminum heatsink from some old motherboard, paper clips to fix everything.
I will update if it is not fixed for good.

[dreamer]

Hello,
As others on this thread, I have the clock/temperature/ average consumption display problem.
The thing is that I just bought the car second hand 2 weeks ago. I didn't see that missing display until I drived it several days, asking myslef how possible it was for a car not to have a clock ( I use to have the Yaris 2004 before, that has all those features)
The person that sold it to me ( herself 2nd byuer) said that she never paid attention to that and that it was surely already out when she bought the car 5 years ago ).

Anyway, I've found this thread via the french page of sven.
The problem is Im not equiped (and talented) to start trying taking all those pieces out :/
I saw on the thread that you can find the full part with the screen etc but it is 150 € !

My questions are :
- is there a way to find just the electronic panel , cheap, and to replace it ?
- how expensive would it cost to me if I go to a toyota garage and ask them to repair it ?

Also, if you know someone in Belgium that would accept to do the work for me in exchange of of a good price, Im interested :)

Oh, and I also have the "turning button" to change from outside/recycling air" that is blocked on the " outside air" , but I hope it is just a plastic thingy blocked behind the n panel, nothing electronic here)

Thanks a lot !

Regards,
Dreamer

[mimik]

Is it possible to replace the old faulty cluster with a second hand unit that works?
Or will that mess up ODO etc?