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10-04-2011, 10:56 PM | #73 |
Drives: Charcoal '08 sedan Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: United States
Posts: 17
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Actually you were right. The constant 12v works there so I hooked in the violets and the red there and the dealer suggested it might be the ground so I put all three of those together on the ground. Still only locks and doesn't unlock or vice-versa. So close.
Does it matter that the ground isn't a ring? I got one of those U-shaped connectors. I can buy a ring if need be but I didn't think it was a big deal. Otherwise I'm just cruising forums looking for someone with the same problem. Should I try using the violet wires or the brown/black and white black as the lock/unlock wires instead? That doesn't really make sense but the manual says polarity could be the problem so... I'm lost. |
10-04-2011, 11:16 PM | #74 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Quote:
A ring terminal doesn't matter as long as you are on a solid ground (for example the bolt under the driver's kick panel). With the actuators, are they two wire? If so, Blue/Black should go to one of the two wires and Green/Black to the other.
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10-04-2011, 11:22 PM | #75 |
Drives: Charcoal '08 sedan Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: United States
Posts: 17
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Yeah, sorry for not being clear. I wrapped black, black/white, and brown/black and put them into a u-shaped connector and then connected it to the ground bolt.
I'm thinking if maybe somehow there's not a good connection with the pink ignition cable, maybe the remote is programmed incorrectly. I'll figure something out hopefully. And yeah, they are two wire actuators. |
10-04-2011, 11:40 PM | #76 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Quote:
Disconnect the blue/black and green black wires from the actuators and measure the voltage between them. It should be 0V with no button pressed and the +12 when one button (lock/unlock) is pressed and -12 when the other lock/unlock is pressed.
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10-05-2011, 09:34 PM | #77 |
Free Mustache Rides
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how many parts are used in the coilibri kit? im finding all sorts of kits places, but none that have as many washers and brackets as that kit. how many are actually needed?
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10-05-2011, 10:10 PM | #78 |
Drives: Charcoal '08 sedan Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: United States
Posts: 17
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Hey, good news! I got everything up and working. Turns out the tap splice to the ignition wire wasn't a good connection so while I had thought I had programmed it, I obviously hadn't. So once I got that programmed it now locks and unlocks. Hooray.
Time to tape everything up and put it back together. Now to name my first child CT or Scott, kidding... |
10-05-2011, 10:40 PM | #79 | |
Drives: Charcoal '08 sedan Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: United States
Posts: 17
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Quote:
The yaris has cable-pull locks so you need special brackets to hold the cable sheath stationary while the actuator moves the cable (see the first post). That's what all the parts are for. Good luck. |
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11-21-2011, 09:48 PM | #80 |
Drives: Flint Mica Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 475
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Bought this kit and it came today. Took me four hours to do the first door, lol. Do the doors not lock or unlock after you have the kit completely assembled and tightened down? I only have the rear left door done, and the lock doesn't move when trying to do it manually.
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11-28-2011, 05:14 PM | #81 |
Drives: Flint Mica Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 475
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Well I got all my actuators, etc working. My question is. Where did you connect the red power wire to? The battery or is there somewhere under the dash I can connect it?
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11-28-2011, 05:44 PM | #82 |
Drives: Flint Mica Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 475
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Basically I can't figure out which open spot in the fuse box, under the dash to use to get the constant 12v of power.....???
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11-28-2011, 07:21 PM | #83 |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Check out my remote start DIY for a good location for a high current constant +12:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24860
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11-28-2011, 10:04 PM | #84 |
hell might as well fatmat that door for a quieter ride ;P
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11-28-2011, 10:15 PM | #85 |
Drives: Flint Mica Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 475
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Well I finally finished installing the power locks and keyless entry. So far so good. Just hoping the lock cable doesn't snap anytime soon.
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11-04-2012, 05:25 AM | #86 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 323
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How much more difficult is it to install the security system if I ordered the package from A1electric with it?
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/...Code=W01F-740T |
11-04-2012, 06:10 AM | #87 | |
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Quote:
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11-04-2012, 08:12 AM | #88 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 323
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From pictures, the actuators do look simple enough to install! The choice of installing an alarm, along with the power lock kit, is tempting! I *feel* like I can install the actuators, however, when it comes to an alarm, that is where I'm a bit weary. I think I'm going to order the power window kit and the power lock kit from a1electric sometime this week. I figured if I have the door panel off already, why not do both at the same time? At the same time, am I biting off more than I can chew?
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11-04-2012, 08:42 AM | #89 | |
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Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
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Quote:
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11-04-2012, 09:34 AM | #90 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris Hatchback Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 323
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