How do I cure a lean condition? - Page 5 - Toyota Yaris Forums

Doc Zaius · 04-07-2009, 11:07 AM

For what it's worth, I've been watching my IGN on the SG. At idle, it typically is around 5, jumps to 10 every once in a while. When the defrost is on (and I guess A/C kicks in), the RPMs drop momentarily, and the IGN drops to -5 or -6... then back to +5.

Also when cruising and off-boost (TPS < 25), IGN is around 35. Drops to around 15-20 when boosting.

LtNoogie · 04-07-2009, 02:02 PM

But don't you get highest performance with more ignition advance? ... like around 20? Are we running in less than optimal mode? With the S/C turned off, my ignition is much more advanced.

TOLMACH · 03-21-2013, 12:11 PM

nice

cali yaris · 03-21-2013, 05:15 PM

TOLMACH · 03-21-2013, 11:40 PM

Nice meant I need to read this some time in the future and not waste time searching for this thread )) (Think outside the box))))

largeorangefont · 02-03-2009, 09:40 AM

Do not waste your time putting in different injectors at this point. Get in contact with Blitz, and get your wideband in so you can see the results for yourself. If you have a problem, then you can work on it from there. Throwing parts at it when you have no means of gathering information will only make your problems worse.

As far as monting the sensor, mounting it precat is fine and above 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock on the pipe. You don't need to mount it precat, but that is where the sensor will live the longest and give the quickest readings.

whooppee777 · 02-05-2009, 05:27 PM

my stock afr sensor is moved away from my nitto midpipe to prevent it from reading crazy readings because of not having a cat. and i monitor the readings through my blitz r-vit and i took a look at it last night. it was reading 14 all the time and i my eyes immediately exploded but then i remembered i moved my sensor away from the pipe with a spacer.

anyways the point is i have been getting readings of 14.such and such for months and the ecu has never set a code saying its running lean

LtNoogie · 03-15-2009, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camelll

How far back from the manifold is your a/f sensor or do you have egt?

It's still in the same spot between the two cats. It was a real PITA to arrange for the car to be lifted and the stereo guy drill a hole in the floorboard. It was too hard to get the muffler shop to put in another bung closer to the header while the stereo guy was standing around. Luckily the two shops are next to each other.

There's been all kinds of debate on this thread about whether the further back you have the wideband sensor affects the reading or whether it affects the lag time between throttle and the reading. Seeing as how the dyno guy read from my tailpipe, where I have the sensor now is fine by me.

What I don't get is that from the a/f readings I got before the S/C, I was actually running a little rich during WOT. The S/C puts me right in the middle now.

largeorangefont · 03-15-2009, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

What I don't get is that from the a/f readings I got before the S/C, I was actually running a little rich during WOT. The S/C puts me right in the middle now.

That is typical. All cars come from the factory tuned on the rich side.

largeorangefont · 03-16-2009, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camelll

My sensor is right after the manifold pre cats and under wot I get between 11 and 12. I would think after the cat or cats his readings are okay.

Well that is interesting...

LtNoogie · 03-16-2009, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camelll

My sensor is right after the manifold pre cats and under wot I get between 11 and 12. I would think after the cat or cats his readings are okay.

Does that mean that the first cat is oxidizing, or whatever a cat does, the exhaust mixture to lower the amount of unburnt fuel thereby raising the a/f mixture?

largeorangefont · 03-16-2009, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LtNoogie

Does that mean that the first cat is oxidizing, or whatever a cat does, the exhaust mixture to lower the amount of unburnt fuel thereby raising the a/f mixture?

Yes, but the cat does the same thing all the time. Your AFR is accurate while cruising. We have to assume it is close to accurate under boost conditions.

largeorangefont · 03-16-2009, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camelll

In between the cats or after the cats is not the optimal spot for the sensor, the instructions say: "If cast iron manifold(s) or shorty headers are used, install the sensor in the pipe just below the manifold."

We have been over what the instructions say. His setup is not optimal, but in this case it is fine. As you can see in the video, his wideband shows 14.6-14.8 AFR in closed loop conditions which we know is accurate.

It is showing high 13s low 14s under boost. While this may not be exactly accurate, the cat will not change the readings by a 2 full points.

LtNoogie · 03-16-2009, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camelll

Long I would be curious what your readings would be if you moved the sensor to pre cat position? I would try that before buying a piggyback.

Mike, I would rather poke out my eyes than to try to get that bung moved and the cable moved with it. Getting everything in place once was damn difficult.

largeorangefont · 03-16-2009, 12:54 PM

* Engine Speed (RPM)
* Manifold Pressure (not available on some vehicles)
* Engine Load
* Ignition Timing

If Manifold Pressure is not available, use Throttle Position instead.

LtNoogie · 03-16-2009, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by largeorangefont

* Engine Speed (RPM)
* Manifold Pressure (not available on some vehicles)
* Engine Load
* Ignition Timing

If Manifold Pressure is not available, use Throttle Position instead.

Wouldn't you get Manifold Pressure from my boost gauge or is that a different manifold pressure?

LtNoogie · 03-16-2009, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camelll

I have a tach, boost/vacuum gauge and I already monitor the timing and load. How does the throttle position fit in or correlate with the others?

You just don't have a video camera!

largeorangefont · 03-16-2009, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camelll

I have a tach, boost/vacuum gauge and I already monitor the timing and load. How does the throttle position fit in or correlate with the others?

It is the same, but it was hard to see in the video.

04-07-2009, 11:07 AM	#1
Doc Zaius Lurker supreme! View User's Garage Drives: old and boosted! Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada Posts: 792	For what it's worth, I've been watching my IGN on the SG. At idle, it typically is around 5, jumps to 10 every once in a while. When the defrost is on (and I guess A/C kicks in), the RPMs drop momentarily, and the IGN drops to -5 or -6... then back to +5. Also when cruising and off-boost (TPS < 25), IGN is around 35. Drops to around 15-20 when boosting. __________________ 2006 Red Blitzed RS 5-door

04-07-2009, 02:02 PM	#2
LtNoogie View User's Garage Drives: '08 Bayou Blue LB AT Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: West Hills, CA Posts: 2,517	But don't you get highest performance with more ignition advance? ... like around 20? Are we running in less than optimal mode? With the S/C turned off, my ignition is much more advanced. __________________ aFe Intake \| Blitz Supercharger \| Megan Header \| TRD Exhaust \| NST Pulley Set TRD Shocks/Struts \| Tanabe NF210 Springs \| TRD Sway Bar \| Motegi TRAKLITE wheels \| Kuhmo Ecsta XS R1 Concepts slotted rotors \| Carbotech 1521 brake pads \| stainless steel brake lines \| Seibon vented carbon fiber hood

03-21-2013, 05:15 PM	#4
cali yaris ULTIMATE View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007 Location: Canoga Park, CA Posts: 14,859	__________________ Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific.

02-05-2009, 05:27 PM	#7
whooppee777 I used to have 1700 posts View User's Garage Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatch Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Maryland Posts: 808	my stock afr sensor is moved away from my nitto midpipe to prevent it from reading crazy readings because of not having a cat. and i monitor the readings through my blitz r-vit and i took a look at it last night. it was reading 14 all the time and i my eyes immediately exploded but then i remembered i moved my sensor away from the pipe with a spacer. anyways the point is i have been getting readings of 14.such and such for months and the ecu has never set a code saying its running lean __________________ *First Boosted Yaris On The East Coast*

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02-03-2009, 09:40 AM	#6
largeorangefont Break'em off some. View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris LB, 04 Cobra Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: So Cal, OC Posts: 854	Do not waste your time putting in different injectors at this point. Get in contact with Blitz, and get your wideband in so you can see the results for yourself. If you have a problem, then you can work on it from there. Throwing parts at it when you have no means of gathering information will only make your problems worse. As far as monting the sensor, mounting it precat is fine and above 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock on the pipe. You don't need to mount it precat, but that is where the sensor will live the longest and give the quickest readings.

03-16-2009, 12:54 PM	#15
largeorangefont Break'em off some. View User's Garage Drives: 07 Yaris LB, 04 Cobra Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: So Cal, OC Posts: 854	* Engine Speed (RPM) * Manifold Pressure (not available on some vehicles) * Engine Load * Ignition Timing If Manifold Pressure is not available, use Throttle Position instead.