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Old 01-10-2013, 12:43 PM   #991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suckerface View Post
As mentioned, aside from the fluctuating idle at cold start (which only lasted 1-2 minutes) I had ZERO problems with mine. Also had an SRI on it. Same part number as yours, just cleaned it up and slapped it on. No chip swap. Didn't even clean the epoxy off the idle screw.

I'll do some digging to see if I ever did a video of it.
I'm glad to hear that,sucker...
At least it worked right for one person here. I'm also glad it worked with your SRI so I can rule out that variable on mine. I can say that when you step on the gas... man, it roars!



The noise could be deceptively making the car feel like it's faster, but the dyno will provide an objective answer that.

Even if all of the issues aren't sorted out, when I get the ECU to a stable point, I'm taking it down to Harry's dyno shop!



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Old 01-10-2013, 12:45 PM   #992
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I don't remember if it was asked at all, but does this manifold sit any closer to the rad than the plastic one?
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:26 PM   #993
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I don't remember if it was asked at all, but does this manifold sit any closer to the rad than the plastic one?
Just measured. The minimum distance between the tooter and the plastic radiator reservoir is 30mm. This is the the point where it comes closest to the radiator assembly. It's not nearly as compact as the stock manifold because the runners are larger diameter and curve around a lot so that they will all end up being exactly the same length.

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Old 01-10-2013, 02:38 PM   #994
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It was the IDLE.

This morning, I cranked the screw out one full turn and did a cold start. Didn't even reset the ECU. NO CEL light. Totally normal start. No racing idle. No hunting for idle speed. Perfectly normal warm up idle. Totally normal hot idle. No surging. No sudden shuddering notch from slight throttle to decel...

...and the throttle response is SUPERB.

(oooh, goody )

So the problem was that the ECU couldn't function properly because the butterfly was being physically prevented from being closed enough by the idle screw which was factory set for a 1.8 and not a 1.5.

I can't tell you how happy this makes me to have found out how to instantly solve all of the problems with just one simple procedure.

It was really dicey breaking loose the idle adjustment screw without stripping it. I used a fractional inch hex key as it was slightly larger than the metric one, and applied Liquid wrench to the threads. Then I put in the hex key and tapped it with a mallot. It turned really hard right at first and then was much easier as the oil penetrated the threads. Now it twiddles without being loose. I'm going to set it with silicone so that if I ever need to readjust it, the silicone plug can be removed easily.

Dyno shop, here I come!

Last edited by tooter; 01-10-2013 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:41 PM   #995
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:54 PM   #996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tooter View Post
Just measured. The minimum distance between the tooter and the plastic radiator reservoir is 30mm. This is the the point where it comes closest to the radiator assembly. It's not nearly as compact as the stock manifold because the runners are larger diameter and curve around a lot so that they will all end up being exactly the same length.
How much less room compared to the plastic manifold? Just asking because the Echo doesn't have a lot of space between it and the rad.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:07 PM   #997
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Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
How much less room compared to the plastic manifold? Just asking because the Echo doesn't have a lot of space between it and the rad.

A lot less...
The overall depth of the plastic stock manifold is only 130mm, while the depth of the tooter is 210mm.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:19 PM   #998
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I combined the Simota intake tube with the BLOX velocity stack because the Simota is larger in diameter which matches the larger diameter of the Corolla throttle body throat...



Now no adaptor coupling is needed, as everything is all the same size straight through from the velocity stack to the throttle body...



Notice the throttle body?... you'd never know that was an 8 year old junkyard part. Stainless steel micro bead blasting makes the old casting look like it's brand new.

I think I'll go for a ride now.

Last edited by tooter; 01-10-2013 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:23 PM   #999
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Glad to hear you got it running sweet!
cant wait for the dyno!
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:52 PM   #1000
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That's awesome you got it all straightened out. I wanted to adjust the idle screw on mine, but it didn't bother me enough to go out of my way to take the time to do it. Now I kind of wish I had...however, I agree, the throttle response is AMAZING! My fiance, who used to have a Yaris, even commented on the difference it makes!

Can't wait to see what the dyno puts down for you!
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:11 PM   #1001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suckerface View Post
That's awesome you got it all straightened out. I wanted to adjust the idle screw on mine, but it didn't bother me enough to go out of my way to take the time to do it. Now I kind of wish I had...however, I agree, the throttle response is AMAZING! My fiance, who used to have a Yaris, even commented on the difference it makes!
Just came back from running errands in town, and the engine runs so GOOD.

I can't believe that it works so much better than the stock throttle body. Especially in low rpm response. You barely touch the pedal and the car is right up to speed. Haven't taken it on the freeway yet, but I'll do that tomorrow. It's all gassed up and ready to take mileage readings.

Quote:
Can't wait to see what the dyno puts down for you!
Neither can I. I'm so excited!

Now the 1.8 throttle body matches the 1.8 manifold as well as the oversized SRI.
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:17 PM   #1002
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Originally Posted by 4/20 NEVER FORGET View Post
You're killing me here, man. You've come so far that not sourcing a 1ZZ TB and dynoing it seems weird to me, like you're aborting the project early. You even had the TB adapter made to match the 1ZZ throttle body, yet you aren't going to at least try and get one?
THANK YOU!
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:02 PM   #1003
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Originally Posted by 4/20 NEVER FORGET View Post
You're killing me here, man. You've come so far that not sourcing a 1ZZ TB and dynoing it seems weird to me, like you're aborting the project early. You even had the TB adapter made to match the 1ZZ throttle body, yet you aren't going to at least try and get one?
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THANK YOU!
Awesome read!
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:13 PM   #1004
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THANK YOU!
No dude, THANK YOU!!! I am so happy you got it running good finally, and that there seems to be a noticeable difference. Looking at the two throttle bodies side by side, you would think there would have to be. The stock TB is so small!

Anyways, this has been a great thread to follow, and I know I can speak for the entire community when I say thanks for posting so often and clearly about the issues and wins you have been having. These threads help us all out. Again, congrats, and I can't wait to see what this sucker does on the dyno. Please post a vid with audio! I bet she screams!

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Old 01-11-2013, 06:09 PM   #1005
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Staring at pic............................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ...........still staring at pic............................................... .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .......damn nice.............................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .......still staring.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:11 PM   #1006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4/20 NEVER FORGET View Post
No dude, THANK YOU!!! I am so happy you got it running good finally, and that there seems to be a noticeable difference. Looking at the two throttle bodies side by side, you would think there would have to be. The stock TB is so small!

Anyways, this has been a great thread to follow, and I know I can speak for the entire community when I say thanks for posting so often and clearly about the issues and wins you have been having. These threads help us all out. Again, congrats, and I can't wait to see what this sucker does on the dyno. Please post a vid with audio! I bet she screams!

Hey man, thanks for the kind words...
From this experience I'm pretty certain that the chips don't even need to be swapped. The butterfly just needs to close farther so that the ECU can find the right idle. Because when I ran both chips, both had the same symptoms. Reducing the idle speed alone is what resolved all of the issues.

So in the future...
If anyone wants to install a part number 030 Corolla 1ZZ throttle body on their 1NZ engine, don't mess with the chips, and simply turn the idle down by backing out the little idle adjustment screw counterclockwise one turn using a 5/64th inch hex key... and everything should work just fine.

I did quite a bit of driving today on the freeway and in traffic with shopping and running errands, and I'm so thoroughly pleased with how well the engine responds with the bigger throttle body.

It behaves like a completely different car!
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:15 PM   #1007
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If anyone wants to install a part number 030 Corolla 1ZZ throttle body on their 1NZ engine, don't mess with the chips, and simply turn the idle down by backing out the little idle adjustment screw counterclockwise one turn using a 5/64th inch hex key... and everything should work just fine.
Wonder if this works on my 1NZ-FXE....


Last edited by JustDidIt; 01-11-2013 at 07:33 PM.
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:57 PM   #1008
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Well... maybe.

Although hybrids use an Atkinson cycle engine which is quite different from regular Otto cycle engines. Atkinsons fire once per revolution, whereas Ottos fire once for every two revolutions.

So this means that your ECU likely has totally different running parameters seeing as the engine spins the generator to charge the batteries. That completely different style of intake manifold is the tipoff. It looks like it is made to operate optimally in a very narrow rpm range.

The bolt spacings are:

67mm
71mm
76mm

They'll also need to be in the right orientation and not flipped over. So if the 76.. is on the right and in a vertical position, the top left will be 67mm and the bottom left will be 71mm like this...



See if they match yours.
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