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07-06-2009, 03:24 PM | #91 | |
The one with cheese on it
Drives: '10 Corolla S Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Posts: 380
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The point is that this is one measure that is preventable. There are still people I've met at the hospital that were in their 30 to 40's and still managed to contract Polio. POLIO for Pete's sake?! Cheese and Rice! That is another disease that could've be prevented. Yes, Polio and Tetanus are diseases that are more rare than car accidents. But no one wants to be that 1 person that contracted either of those, right? Another case is that there are still kids in inner-city neighborhoods that are getting Lead poisoning. Another avoidable case. In 85% (my personal estimate) of those cases I came across, it was because the parents never thought that Lead was still on their walls! All they had to do when they moved in was just test the paint, strip the walls, and put on a fresh coat of lead-free paint that is available EVERYWHERE. But because of that same mentality in which Lead poisoning is so RARE nowadays, who would've thought that it would happen to their child?
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DIY: A/C Insulation |
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07-06-2009, 06:44 PM | #92 | |
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Temp increased to 42 degrees when I turned the fan on 4. I wish I would have taken it's temp before the mod. |
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07-06-2009, 06:45 PM | #93 |
I hope I didn't open a can of tetanus worms....
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07-06-2009, 07:00 PM | #94 |
Drives: Blazing Blue 08 liftback Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Euless Texas
Posts: 241
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Did all but the area by the pullies. I put aluminum rap around the insulating foam and lightly tie wrapped the total. In my head ity seems cooler. Wish I had done a before after. But, can it hurt?
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One Year One Oil-AMSOIL at www.Trulube.com TRD Exhaust, Springs and Struts. TRD SSK. NST Underdrive Crank Pulley. Amsoil Dominator 10w-30 Racing Oil, Amsoil DOT4 brake fluid, Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-90 transmission oil, Ultra Racing 23mm Sway Bar, Camber Bolts, R1 Drilled Slotted front Brakes and SS Brake cables from Micro-Image. Orange Konig Daylight 17s, Kumo MXs. Greg@TruLube.com |
07-06-2009, 07:21 PM | #95 |
Drives: 08 Yaris Sedan Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: California - Bay Area
Posts: 2,773
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The only one thing keeping me from doing this mod. Is every pic i have seen looks way ugly!. I am trying to keep my engine bay looking show quality and clean.
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07-06-2009, 09:14 PM | #96 | |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 09 5dr LB, 2x 08 3dr LB Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: USA, CT
Posts: 13,460
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It even comes in blue, red and black. http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...o%20flex&dds=1 |
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07-06-2009, 10:03 PM | #97 | |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
Posts: 14,859
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Quote:
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
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07-06-2009, 10:33 PM | #98 |
SIPNDEW
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first off, i wanna say i love this idea!!!
second, how long until the evap core freezes over? i would put some a/c gauges on it every now and then to see what your low side pressure reading is, if you notice it dropping then your evap core is freezing up and will cause the system to shut off. |
07-06-2009, 10:45 PM | #99 | ||||
The one with cheese on it
Drives: '10 Corolla S Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Posts: 380
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Nonetheless, it is not too bad since supposedly you get COLDER air when set to "recirculating".
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DIY: A/C Insulation |
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07-07-2009, 01:38 AM | #100 |
Drives: 2009 Meteorite Metallic LB MT Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Southeast Wisconsin
Posts: 810
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07-07-2009, 06:42 PM | #101 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris HB Join Date: May 2009
Location: So Cal.
Posts: 100
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Did mine today. I zip tied the foam as I went from one end to the other, then twisted/adjusted the foam, re-tightened the zipties as necessary and cut the ends off. I found the aluminum tape at Home Cheapo, a small roll (50 yards!) was 7 bucks and change, I saw the larger roll it was almost $15, the small roll is enough to do 20 cars at least.
I rotated the zip tie buckles to the rear before taping. As Anaconda mentioned the hot tip is to cut short pieces of tape, approx 6 inches long and wrap one section at a time, I used about a 1/4" overlap, and double wrapped the area closest to the header. IMO the header is likely responsible for most the heat warming the line, so I just did the back section across the firewall, the rest is too curvy and complicated for a clean wrap. Half way there: Finished: I will check the result and see if I can feel the difference later today. Good thread and DIY thanks guys. |
07-07-2009, 08:38 PM | #102 |
Drives: Yaris rs 2008 Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Québec Canada
Posts: 2
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It is not a good idea. theres a reason why toyota does not did that.
I work in refrigeration and climatisation. The temperature of the air supply must never be lower than 50 degre F. You need 20 degre F between the inlet and supply. Your compressor will compress liquid refrigerant and its not good for longue time life. without insulation, you gonna have better heat transfer for refrigerant vapor compress. So, i don't think that is a good idea. |
07-07-2009, 09:34 PM | #103 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris Meteorite LB Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern Michigan
Posts: 61
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a/c insulation...
I used pipe insulation only on mine and also did the lower area by the compressor. For the area by the engine mount and alternator pulley I took a 3" x 4" piece of aluminum dryer vent, bent it half mooned shape, over the low pressure line and over the low pressure line. I kind of wedged it in place firmly.
I get cold air in under 3 minutes...my vent thermometer (thanks for the tip on finding that texkid!). I'm reading 38 degrees vent temperature. I did not have the thermometer before the project, but I know it was not nearly as cold. What kind of vent temperature are those of you that have used the aluminum tape getting? |
07-07-2009, 10:43 PM | #104 |
Drives: 2008 Yaris Meteorite LB Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern Michigan
Posts: 61
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a/c insulation...
Correction: I took a 3" x 4" piece of aluminum dryer vent, bent it half mooned shape, over the low pressure line and over the high pressure line. I kind of wedged it in place firmly.
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07-08-2009, 12:54 AM | #105 | |
Drives: Car Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 9
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Quote:
The low pressure line is for refrigerant going to the compressor. It's a good idea to insulate the low pressure line to keep the refrigerant cool as it enters the compressor. The cool refrigerant helps cool down the compressor. The high pressure line goes into the cabin. The high pressure goes through the expansion valve making it a low pressure liquid and cold. The warm air passes through the evaporator and boils the refrigerant into a cold gas. Why is it a good idea to insulate the high pressure line? Because you don't want your engine heat to warm up the cooled refrigerant that will be entering your cabin. From the pictures posted, it looks like the high pressure line is VERY close to the exaust manifold. Basically, your condenser is cooling the refrigerant, and a few feet later, your exaust is warming it back up again! Seriously... just do a damn google search on how a/c works. The high pressure line is the one going to the evaporator, the low pressure line is the one going to the compresser. |
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07-08-2009, 02:07 AM | #106 |
やりすぎだ~
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ok... what?
Just want to make sure I got this right. Wrap only the fat tube on the top. Leave the skinny tube alone. Correct? |
07-08-2009, 02:35 AM | #107 |
Drives: Car Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 9
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07-08-2009, 08:36 AM | #108 |
Man, I'm I getting confused now...
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