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Old 04-05-2010, 01:03 PM   #1
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Well it all looks like stock, now that I put it all together again. I'll take some pics once I get the amplifier in a few days. It will also look stock/stealth.
Cool, where are you going to install your amp?

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Old 04-05-2010, 08:30 PM   #2
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You've got this result by only deadening the floor? Did you deaden the doors?

Thanks.

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Well it all looks like stock, now that I put it all together again. I'll take some pics once I get the amplifier in a few days. It will also look stock/stealth.

I'm very happy with the Yaris now. Completely quiet, all I can hear while driving is the sound of the wind against the windshield, and even that's pretty silent. The tire noise from driving on old rugged asphalt doesn't make it into the cabin at all (or my hearing is fading with age).

Its so quiet that the only annoyances that remain, is the sound coming from my key chain vibrating gently... and a new rattle from the rear middle seat belt assembly. I tried to make it shut up, but something internal to the seat belt roller is resonating, making rattle. I covered it in bed sheets and such, so the sound doesn't really go anywhere.
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Old 04-05-2010, 01:16 PM   #3
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Don't you love that? The only real sounds that "bother" you are the really small ones! For me, it's the dome light (that will be taken care of in a few weeks).
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Old 04-05-2010, 01:16 PM   #4
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Under my right front seat. Already have all the wires routed in there under the carpet.

And its on its way!!
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Old 04-05-2010, 01:20 PM   #5
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When I took down my dome light, I noticed there were two plastic pieces on each side of the bulb. Didn't quite understand what function they served. One of the pieces were loose when I opened it. Have you tried just popping off the cover? Or is the rattle rooted deeper up in there?
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Old 04-05-2010, 01:34 PM   #6
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I haven't touched the headliner just yet. I didn't have enough time before they shipped me off to Iraq.

I'll be handling that in two weeks after my return home. As soon as that headliner is dropped, the dash mounting for the P-01 and wiring to the amplifiers happen. We're still trying to decide which amplifiers to use. Image Dynamics Qs or Audison SRx or LRx...
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Old 04-05-2010, 02:18 PM   #7
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Old 04-05-2010, 02:30 PM   #8
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Oh, I noticed my side mirrors vibrating when playing loud. I'm going to put sound damping material behind the mirrors. It should be easy.
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Old 04-05-2010, 02:33 PM   #9
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Oh, I noticed my side mirrors vibrating when playing loud. I'm going to put sound damping material behind the mirrors. It should be easy.
Great idea, please take pictures...

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Old 04-06-2010, 08:34 AM   #10
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In short, I deadened everything except the ceiling. Everything was very easy to get to, once I took the seats out.

Approximately sorted by the most effective/giving greatest immediate result:
Doors (huge difference)
Side walls next to rear seats. (large surface of sheet metal)
Lower trunk area below the spare tire. This has thin sheet metal that vibrates.
Floors below and in front of foot area (including wheel wells, made a huge difference in engine sound)
Hatch (foam)
Rear wheel wells (deadener)
Rear floor under rear seats and foot area (this area has fairly solid metal and no thin sheet metal that vibrates, no big effect).
Center gear shifter area has some open sheet metal that vibrates quite a bit, helps to cover this.
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:45 AM   #11
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50 sq ft B-Quiet $134
50 sq ft e-Dead $65
Interior carpet roll $10 at Kmart, $15 at Auto Zone (exact same roll)

e-dead is not near as good as B-Quiet. B-Quiet is better than Dynamat.

All in all very cheap DIY to create comfort.
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Old 04-06-2010, 09:34 AM   #12
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50 sq ft B-Quiet $134
50 sq ft e-Dead $65
Interior carpet roll $10 at Kmart, $15 at Auto Zone (exact same roll)

e-dead is not near as good as B-Quiet. B-Quiet is better than Dynamat.

All in all very cheap DIY to create comfort.
Please show us some pictures...





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Old 04-06-2010, 09:38 AM   #13
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50 sq ft B-Quiet $134
50 sq ft e-Dead $65
That is about 100 SF, I got 67.5 ft² of MLV, and I'm running low for the floor and firewall, I just ordered another 25 SF, with a total of about 92 SF, so it's about right what it needs to cover a Yaris Sedan.





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Old 04-06-2010, 11:02 AM   #14
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I'm sorry if I'm been so naive here, what would be the best orientation for tweeters from the images below...

Thank you!

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File Type: jpg Tweeters orientation 2.jpg (60.9 KB, 925 views)
File Type: jpg Tweeters orientation 1.jpg (60.6 KB, 925 views)
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Old 01-24-2015, 12:17 AM   #15
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I'm sorry if I'm been so naive here, what would be the best orientation for tweeters from the images below...

Thank you!




.
Short answer is "B"
Aim your tweeters away from glass and flat panels, to avoid second reflections and fool your brain with unreal signals.
Without a processor left tweeter may be more off axis to lower the level since right tweeter would be more on-axis towards your right ear. In other words you need to balance the tweeters so it feels like you are in the middle.

If after playing music for a while your Left ear hurts that means the Left tweeter is playing louder, a mechanical way to fix this is having the Left tweeter off-axis to minimize the level, you can play with the HU's Balance and with high frequency sounds (like a female voice) you can actually have a better center image, give it a try.

How I did mine, I went a step further and been able to control each tweeter with a processor, Left tweeter was aiming to my Left ear (my tweeters had a very bad off-axis response) so reflection on the window are minimal. And Right tweeter aimin at my Right ear.

In the CLS and in my CLA with OEM sound system I do this see below.... move the balance towards the left side a bit to get a little bit of center image, you can play with it move it left and right and yes the high frequencies would move left to right, try to center it in the middle of your dash...


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Old 04-06-2010, 12:46 PM   #16
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That is about 100 SF, I got 67.5 ft² of MLV, and I'm running low for the floor and firewall, I just ordered another 25 SF, with a total of about 92 SF, so it's about right what it needs to cover a Yaris Sedan.





.
Yep. I've got 3 sq ft left, that I'm saving for the mirror, and whatever else begins to vibrate once I get some SPL... license plate maybe. So yeah, 97 sq ft in the car. Its only ~28 lbs... about the weight of the spare wheel, half of the back seat or the weight I lost in the gym in the past few months.

I hear your call for pictures, but it all looks stock. I like the way the Yaris looks!! I made a little video instead, but like I said, it doesn't show anything because I put it all together again. I'll keep in mind to take pictures if I disassemble something in the future...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFzLHZN85Rc

Last edited by swidd; 04-06-2010 at 01:30 PM. Reason: uploaded video
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Old 04-06-2010, 12:25 PM   #17
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Thanks for the infor.

Did you use any rubber mat or mass loaded vinyl to cover the floor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by swidd View Post
50 sq ft B-Quiet $134
50 sq ft e-Dead $65
Interior carpet roll $10 at Kmart, $15 at Auto Zone (exact same roll)

e-dead is not near as good as B-Quiet. B-Quiet is better than Dynamat.

All in all very cheap DIY to create comfort.
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Old 04-06-2010, 12:53 PM   #18
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Thanks for the infor.

Did you use any rubber mat or mass loaded vinyl to cover the floor?
B-Quiet on the floor and lower front firewall... Rubber butyl mat with aluminum foil backing. Very effective, and very easy to work with. A single layer was plenty of added mass on most places.

The cheapest material out there, eDead_45, was not near as effective (if much at all...), the glue was not 'permanent', very minimum mass. It was too thin. But it was extremely clean and easy to apply, and being super cheap, I used it for double and triple layers in the trunk and under the rear seats (large horizontal surfaces).
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