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Old 06-11-2012, 01:15 PM   #91
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Well my bad,been reading here and there. And this 180bhp figure got stuck.
At 180whp,i think that would meet my goals as this is my daily drive.
I seriously doubt the TRD turbo [IHI made] will make that power,though.

Regarding the stock inlet manifold,any substitute to that? What inlet mani are you people using?
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Old 06-11-2012, 04:06 PM   #92
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^ lots of discussion about the intake manifold. We have one in development, and you should look up "tooter" thread about the one he is playing with.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:43 AM   #93
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Update:

BOOST DOES NOT GET YOU LAID!

It keeps you up all night for 2 days while you replace the motor, lol

^as you can read from above and probably guess i needed to replace my motor..... lol

I DONT REGRET ANYTHING AND CANT WAIT TO BE BOOSTED AGAIN, STOCK YARII IS SOOOOOOOO F'IN SLOW! lol.....

More updates to come......
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:23 PM   #94
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:53 PM   #95
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You kids and your overly ambitious boosting

Sorry to hear though. At least it sounds like you've already got it covered.
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:51 PM   #96
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I LOVE being called a kid
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Old 12-03-2012, 09:35 PM   #97
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^LMFAO, Garm.....random question......How old are you?

Short Story: Water got into my stock ECM and threw my AFR's way way off. Unfortunately as this is my daily driver i was forced to drive it while I was trying to trace back to the issue. And engine stopped working



Yes I Took my Cowl apart on the side of the road to get the car going again……

Long and Painful Story: The first real sign of an issue was after my car shut down in a carwash. It would crank over but wouldn’t catch. Finally I decided i had to bump it off the starter to get it out of the car wash out of the way from the other dirty car owners. I figured water had gotten into a connector and once it dried it would be fine so I walked across the street, had lunch and some beers and when I came back she struggled but it started. It ran great till I got to my next client and let the car sit in the parking lot. When I came back out again it struggled to start and once it did start I had my dash board dancing like a Christmas tree. (engine, trac, slip, abs, ebrake, airbag, oil and a few other lights I never saw before were flashing on and off)

I called it a day and Took it home and immediately started trying to find the problem. I found light corrosion on the boomslang harness pins and also light corrosion on the ECM pins. I cleaned the corrosion the best I could and I put enough dielectric grease to comfortably do a rectal examination on an elephant. Started the car and the car was running and idling very good, I felt comfortable I had solved the problem. I took it for a quick test drive around the block and found all AFRs were reasonable, slightly off but I gave it the benefit of the doubt and trusted it was due to the ECM relearning the stock fuel trims

At this point please keep in mind I didn’t say there was a lot of logic behind my method of thinking. If you really really think about it you can make anything sound plausible and that exactly what I did……

After about a week of driving I noticed My AFRs still wernt quite normal and seemed to be getting slightly worse, I believed it had something to do with a change or resistance on the pins so I would need to retune to correct the issue, I attempted to adjust my maps on the FIC and found the engine would not react as expected, I then went looking for more corrosion.

Remember at this point also my car has been driving for over a week with the AFRs all over the place without any engine light or CEL codes, using my OBD2 I did see that my ECM wasn’t even reading my O2 sensor 2 bank 1 voltage and my sensor 1 was fluctuating when the car was in the on position but not on. Also at this point I am beginning to smell unburnt fuel and exhaust emissions inside the cabin while I was driving, I believed this was a sign my car AFRs were rich and my AEM wideband was in fact reading incorrectly and what ever buggered up that sensor also buggered up my O2 sensor 1 (remember that thing I said about being able to give logic to anything……exhibit (A))

After a very late night of myself working on the car and keeping CTScott up past his bed time too( To whom I owe many thanks to), he convinced me that water may have gotten into the Toyota SEALED ECM and is causing the isuses, so I opened it up and found what would be the cause of the issue.






And what was left after I cleaned corrosion, notice pins from the IC chip are in fact missing




First thing I did the next morning was drive over to Toyota and showed them the Pics and issues I was having, I spoke firmly and directly to the service manager. They agreed to cover the ECM under warranty and they ordered the part right away without even looking at my car. Only problem at this point was my ECM was going to take about a month as they were on back order and showed stock no where. Also apparently Toyota is no longer able to give out loner cars while your car is out for repair so I was left with the dealer (and the person I called at Toyota Canada) saying its my decision to find alternate means of transportation or drive the car.

After many heated conversations with the dealer and Toyota Canada they did rush the part in in about a week, but this was one more week of me driving my car with crazy AFRs. I did try to stay away from boost as much as possible but it was not uncommon to go up to 4PSI (wastegate was set to 9) While I was waiting for the new ECM I did disconnect my boomslang harness as with only the stock ECM is was more stable for everyday driving but still would get super rich and super lean at random intervals.

After I got my New ECM i left my boomslang harness unplugged to try and have the new ecm relearn the stock fuel trims correctly. First thing I noticed was the AFRs were more constant and much more stable then the old ECM, also it was now reading both my O2s in a stable way. Second thing I noticed was I still had the smell of fuel and exhaust in my cabin. I checked header and everything looked good, I couldn’t find an exhaust leak and even checked my injectors for leaks.

After a few days of driving like this the smell was getting worse, when the car was hot (after about 1.5 hours of driving) I popped the hood with the car still running and saw a thick stream of steam and exhaust and significant oil particles coming out of the breather tube……. I purchased a long tube and ran it under my car so I would survive the drive home. By the time I got home the car was backfiring, missing, and smoking like a MOFO out of the breather and exhaust.

I checked compression and it was as followed:

Test #1: Car sat aprox 40 mins before test
Cylinder 1 - - 155 – 158 PSI
Cylinder 2 - - 154 – 157 PSI
Cylinder 3 - - 155 – 159 PSI
Cylinder 4 - - 153 – 156 PSI

Test #2: Car run hard and compression checked within 10 mins
Cylinder 1 - - 160 – 165 PSI
Cylinder 2 - - 161 – 167 PSI
Cylinder 3 - - 159 – 164 PSI
Cylinder 4 - - 163 – 166 PSI

Also I did a leak down test and saw a very minimal drop

I left the car that night and came out in the morning to take it to the dealer to see what was up. They told me I needed a complete engine rebuild as I have significant blow by (NO F/CK/NG SHIT, I TOLD YOU THAT AS SOON AS I WALKED IN!!!!! GRRRRR) I told them the engine replacement was on them as it was their faulty computer that caused the engine to go. After lots and lots of yelling and swearing and phone calls with Toyota Canada (and I think they made a phone call to the cops too cuz they just happen to be driving around in the parking lot briefly) Toyota offered to cover about 50% of the cost but would not cover the entire engine replacement as “A Stock, unmodified Yaris would have been able to withstand the conditions the ECM was creating”

I told them they would never see the green of my money again. (or pink and blue and brown……yes we know our Canadian money is colourful) and left a one-wheel-peel out of their drive through bay (which also left some colourful smoke and toxic fumes)

All I knew at this point was I needed my Daily driver to get back to work. Luckily I remembered Barber (who I would also like to thank greatly) had a very mint, well taken care of Stock yaris engine from a 2010 with about 20,000km (12,427 Mi). I snagged that up and found where I had put all my Stock yaris parts and got to work, It took me 3 days (17 hours total) to do the swap. I am working on the Engine Swap DIY, as I found out there isn’t one…….


engine being brought back from The Barbers in the back of a borrowed oversized pickup for the job

Engine getting to my house and unloaded from Pickup (yes 2 guys can put it in but one guy cannot take it out)


Engine removal


Old Engine, New Engine, Tranny, Stock Clutch


Stock Clutch


Thickness of stock clutch (i should have taken a measurement but I didn’t…..)


New engine mated with stock tranny all polished and cleaned, ready to go in




I polished up the engine and tranny and Once the new engine was in, she started up great and is running like a champ. Threw in some sea foam to get rid of any deposits left inside and have had no mechanical issues thus far, only issue I had was about half way through my day the car died….. apparently those ground wires on the left side of the engine (drivers side) are very important……DO NOT ONLY HAND TIGHTEN THESE BOLTS! THEY WILL COME LOOSE, YOU CAR WILL SHUTDOWN! Lol…….


When I was all done, came inside and my GF had made me Cookies! YAY ME! Im gonna do engine swaps more often



Will Update with what Actually went wrong in the stock engine when i get a chance to get into it. Also will create the engine swap DIY and post once its ready with Pics. I do believe it was the Top end (valves/cam) that went wrong, i do not believe it was a gasket or pision rings...... Like i said i will keap you posted.

All in all i do not regret boosting and i cant wait to create a 300bhp motor to drop back in. I am very unsatisfied with Toyotas actions and the way they treat me dirrectly (i have never been treated this much as a kid in my life) I am not saying they should have replaced the motor no questions asked but they should not haven spoken to me the way they did. This experience will greatly influence my decision when i purchase my next Vehicle. I love toyota but they are falling through the holes and no longer treating customers as number one.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:59 AM   #98
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WOW. What a story lol.

I'm really surprised to see that water made its way into the ECU. I'm even more surprised that Toyota didn't completely blow you off for having such a heavily modified car. You must be pretty damn persuasive.

A DIY for engine removal would be really awesome. I figure at one point or another I'll be in that boat, and would love to have something to reference.

All in all, I'm glad to see you're not discouraged though. Things can and will go wrong when you modify an engine so much, but the outcome is always worth it.

Oh. And them cookies.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cali yaris View Post
I LOVE being called a kid
Garm, you ARE a kid. At heart, at least.
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:44 PM   #99
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WOW. What a story lol.
X2

Looks like you had an exhaust leak on no. 1 and 2 at the head/manifold.
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Old 12-05-2012, 01:27 PM   #100
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the exhast leak was an on going issue with the turbo, since i never supported the bottom of the turbo i had to keep tightning the header bolts
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:00 PM   #101
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Maybe you should fab up some kind of bracket
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Old 12-05-2012, 02:30 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
Maybe you should fab up some kind of bracket
LOL......was the plan for the last year lol, just never got around to it. almost did it a few weeks back but decided to just tighten it up again and go back inside lol

Next time i go boosted i will definatly have a bracket. im excited to build my engine and fab everything up before putting it in, should work out much better then the method i did before (with engine in car trial and error)
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:58 PM   #103
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Its sounds like U put up a good fight with that dealer. Mine was still covered under powertrain warranty when I bent a rod. I didnt even try to get the dealer to pay. I just started calling junk yards.
And yes, build a motor you wont regret it!
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:57 AM   #104
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i figured it was worth a fight, i do believe my car would have been still running fine if the ECM didnt crap out. with the ECM acting up i had some of the worst issues for a boosted motor:
Off timing (i believe)
too rich (oil wash down)
Too Lean (cookin sh!t)
unpredictable
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Old 12-07-2012, 01:13 AM   #105
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Went outside to get more pics for my engine removal DIY and instead i started ripping the old engine appart......

oil change the hard way, i have no idea who said doing it off a lift was the hard way, this was much more annoying.....



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Old 12-08-2012, 08:27 PM   #106
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glad the new engine is working for you...

...and im happy to have some more space in my garage
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:29 PM   #107
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How'd you separate the black housing from the ECM? Currently trying to have a look see at mine (our problems sound very similar), but can't get a good look at the bottom of the board.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:32 PM   #108
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screw driver my friend. its similar silicone that holds out headlights together. i didnt use heat but im sure your could use light heat. make sure you remove the screws around the unit as well as the bracket
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