Yoda's Turbo Log

[cdydjded]

me neither.....

[pimp my yaris]

My downpipe that I based of the zage downpipe was easy to build and weld up, but it restricts wastegate exhaust flow. Their is a small cast iron divider in that turbo between the turbine exit and the wastegate exit. If you use a downpipe flange that is flat like mine, U will have restricted flow from wastegate. Then comes boost creep at higher rpm. Use a flange that has a chamber after the turbo to smoothly blend those gases before entering the exhaust. I corrected my problem by grinding down that divider. The first two pics is my downpipe flange [dont]. The third pic is a flange for for a gt25 that will work much better for that turbo. Hope this is helpfull.

[cdydjded]

Thats what I thought u meant........

[Yoda]

ahh ok i seee. Makes sense never even crossed my mind and i call myself an engineer tsk tsk. Where can i find a flange like that?

[Yoda]

Question what would happen if i used the oil return spot on the turbo to feed the oil in and the other to drain to the pan?

[cdydjded]

I dont understand what you are trting to ask.....

[Yoda]

Talking about the top part with the blue thing in it. I use that location to feed the oil in and the opposite side to drain it to the oil pan... would it work that way?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I think I know why you're asking - and if that's the case you could just reclock the turbo?

Otherwise, I don't think it would matter as long as the return is on the bottom (obviously). You probably would want to run a thicker line for the return to keep oil pressure down in the turbo. Unless you like getting oil in your intercooler like I did

Oh, and that thing is adorable

[Yoda]

Well that one is not mine. Just a pic I found online that showed what I meant. I would need to drill and make new holes to reclock it the way I want. Can't figure out how to take off the compressor housing. I can turn it, but the middle part turns with it too

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Originally Posted by Yoda

Well that one is not mine. Just a pic I found online that showed what I meant. I would need to drill and make new holes to reclock it the way I want. Can't figure out how to take off the compressor housing. I can turn it, but the middle part turns with it too

That is terribly inconvenient lol

It looks like it could be possible to take just the compressor housing off? Would the bolt holes still align if you took it off and rotated it?

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by Focus_Sh1ft

That is terribly inconvenient lol

It looks like it could be possible to take just the compressor housing off? Would the bolt holes still align if you took it off and rotated it?

I pretty much have the same turbo that pimp has with the internal wastegate so jaw it won't line up. I am planning to route the piping differently tho.

[cdydjded]

No you cannot do what you are thinking, you cant use the return for the feed & the feed for the return. You need to clock the turbo so the feed is on the top & the return is on the bottom. If you buy the right turbo you wont have this problem....

[Yoda]

Well pimp has his working. Just didn't want to drill into it. O well... Let me go buy some more tools and stuff

[cali yaris]

On my first install, I bought a Garrett GT2554R. I had to re-clock it.

I think if you're buying a pre-packaged KIT you shouldn't have to.

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by cali yaris

On my first install, I bought a Garrett GT2554R. I had to re-clock it.

I think if you're buying a pre-packaged KIT you shouldn't have to.

Too late for a kit now lol. Plus I feel I will gain alot of knowledge from this.

[cdydjded]

From the pic you can clock this turbo.....BTW just to clear something up, clocking the turbo means to rotate the turbine, center housing & compressor from its current position to another position....

[Yoda]

Originally Posted by cdydjded

From the pic you can clock this turbo.....BTW just to clear something up, clocking the turbo means to rotate the turbine, center housing & compressor from its current position to another position....

If I could figure out how to rotate the center housing I will be good. I got the compressor to rotate

[pimp my yaris]

The turbine housing [exhaust side] is held on with four bolts. The Compressor housing [intake side] is held on with a large snap ring. You will need some large snap ring plyers. Its on pretty tight. I will tell you from experience you must clock the turbo cartrige [Center section of the turbo] so your oil feed is on the top and oil drain is on the bottom. Other wise the seals will leak when oil is pooled in the turbo when the car is parked. And every time U start the car U will get a lot of white smoke. Oil feed and drain can not be reversed. You will also need a bajo bolt for the oil feed with a 1.5mm restricter. This will allow the proper amount of oil into your turbo. If the turbo gets full flow from the line U will starve the engine for oil pressure [very bad]. If its a ball bearing turbo U will need a 1.0mm restrictor banjo bolt. My turbo uses journal bearings.
I did need to drill and tap a small hole in the compressor housing when the housing was clocked correctly for the bracket that holds on the wastegate actuator. I have a very complete metric tap and die kit. Very handy for this project.
I have some pics and info about reclocking the turbo in my thread starting on page 3.
Check it out and be very careful and take your time when dissassembling the turbo. You dont want to bend or chip any of the tubine blades on either side or you can through off the balance of the spining assembly. Will shorten the life of the turbo.
Please feel free to PM me with any questions and I will help U out. I can also tell U of some mistakes I made when ordering parts that can save U $. Parts on E-bay that says they will fit the GT25 turbo are actually made for the Garret GT25 ball bearing turbos. This turbo uses different oil feed banjo bolt thread pattern and different oil drain flange.
If You look at my thread U can see most of the parts I ordered.