2ZR Turbo Yaris

[06YarisRS]

Turbo Oil Supply Line

This job had its moments. It all came together though. I'll know for sure later when I look for leaks.

Removing Oil Sensor



Parts going together. I used some teflon tape on some parts and rtv on others.



Installing the fittings requires retapping the sensor port hole. I think it's just to clean the threads in preparation for the brass fitting. I used a well greased 1/8" NPT tap, but still managed to create some filings. This worried me as it's a direct shot from there - passing through no filtering, I think, to the turbo. Although the grease retained most of the filings, there were some in the block. So, I diligently flushed it many times with brake cleaner and wiped out with a microfiber to towel, then rinsed again. There's no evidence of any filings, so I should be good.

Grease covered tap.



Tapping



Fittings installed



Line attached. I'm going to do a flow test soon. The engine will not start, but I'll look for evidence of oil coming from the turbo end of the supply line after I prime the turbo with oil. Hopefully, starter speed will provide enough pressure to flow oil up and through the line.



After the test, I'll hook up the end to the turbo. Routing the supply line up to the turbo is going to be a bit of a challenge, involving good heat resistant zip ties. The supply line is very long, presumeably to allow keeping it far from hot parts such as the manifold and turbo compressor.

[06YarisRS]

A Slow Weekend...

Didn't get much done due to being away visiting family. A couple things project-related did happen though.

I fixed an issue I had with the oil return line. It had a very, very slight uphill curve going into the oil pan. I reclocked the center section of the turbo, cut 1/2" off the pipe and reinstalled. The front of the car is higher on the jackstands than the back, so once the car is lowered, I should have a very good downhill run to the pan. However, I'm going to temporarily replace the steel braided hose with clear braided hose of the precise length and test the oil drain with the car still nose-high. I imagine I'll be in boost on a few long hills from time to time. As a positive spinnoff of clocking the center section of the turbo, my coolant lines are now a wee bit father away from the downpipe. I have about 1.5" - 2" clearance. I'll wrap those in the aluminum tape that came with the kit. I should be fine heatwise as I've read online about people with lines closer to the downpipe who have had no issues.

I also addressed the clearance issue between the first charge pipe and the subframe. This I did by shortening both legs of the coupler, allowing the aluminum pipe to go up farther into the engine bay. Although I've read the install manual myriad times, somehow I missed the trimming of the 45 coupler (RTFM, more carefully, silly boy, lol). I now have about 1/2" clearance where before I had slightly less than 1/4". Since I still haven't tightened up my dogbone mount, I rocked the engine back and forth and the piping doesn't contact the subframe. Yay! I had a few inches of turbo to wastegate hose left (after clocking the turbo way back when, I had to shorten this hose) and it worked perfectly as a contact pad between the charge pipe and engine casting rib. I degreased the rib and hose and glued it on with a bit of RTV. Worked great! I'm going to use a bunch of this around the car for all potential contact areas between the turbo piping and body/frame etc.



In other news, most of the stuff for my custom intake has arrived to my US destination. I hope to start to work on that about mid week. I may get the urge to hook up the stock airbox and start the car, but I'll try to wait until my intake is finished.

Lastly, I'm going to ask the turbokits guys if I can get a shorter oil feed line. The one with the kit is quite long. I need one less than 1/2 the length of what came with the kit. There's probably a lot more space in the Corolla to route that around than there is in the Yaris.

[CrankyOldMan]

Awesome news! Super stoked to see this happening!

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by CrankyOldMan

Awesome news! Super stoked to see this happening!

Yup, getting exciting. Looking forward to working on my intake this week.

[06YarisRS]

No pics tonight, but I completed some modifications to the heater hoses to provide more clearance for my rather large intake pipe setup. There are a bunch of old engines in our shop that the kids are dismantling and putting back together. They will never be put in cars, so I scavenged a couple of 5/8" heather hoses with tight elbows, cut them up and replaced portions of my stock hoses. This gives me more room at the firewall to run my 3" piping. It also allowed me to gain more clearance as the coolant lines for the turbo loop under the down pipe. I have a bit more length to secure the hoses with either high heat zipties of metal zipties.

Really hoping this weekend to top up with fluids and crank the car over without starting and observing the oil flow back to the pan via the temporary clear braided hose. If all looks well. I'll attach the oem airbox and run the car a bit. Should be nice and loud - painfully, I bet - with that massive 3" downpipe. After I determine that there are no leaks, or if there are, fix them, I'll set to work on the intercooler piping. Then will come the injectors and F/IC wiring.

[06YarisRS]

Intake and new intercooler

Here is a pic of the custom 3" intake. Not too bad for just under $80.00 for the piping, couplers, clamps and filter. The right section which is lying flat will rotate upwards about 45 degrees and if everything goes as planned, the filter will land right where the oem airbox once resided. This intake should flow really well. The true test will be tomorrow when I actually go to install it. I will have to cut about 5"-6" off the left curved pipe which is great as it will serve two purposes: 1) it will place the coupler away from the heat of the manifold and turbine and 2) it will give me the few inches of pipe I need to attach the filter. Right now, the filter is just resting there and not attached. The section of the intake running between the two elbows will be wrapped in reflective heat tape.

Also in the pic is the new intercooler. $60.00 for what seems like a very solid and sturdy EMUSA intercooler doesn't press the budget too much. The intercooler, which comes easily modified mounting brackets should really simplify the the plumbing at the front of the car. The other two coupers (2.5" 90 and 45) are to assist in mounting the intercooler.

[06YarisRS]

Intake Modding and Test Fitting

As suspected, this is a lot of work. I worked on clearing the path. First, by removing a couple little nubs protruding from the head that were in the path of the piping. There is only a pic of one that I removed. This one was removed with my 4" angle grinder. The other I had to use my recip saw with a metal cutting blade.





Despite bending the A/C tubes, I only had about 1/4" between the intake piping and A/C lines. I shaped the intake pipe with BFH, covered by a cloth. The dent is fairly smooth and shouldn't affect airflow. There is a solid 1" - 1.5" clearance now. I'm still going to figure out a way to bend the short straight section of A/C line a bit although I'm pretty sure I already have enough clearance.





Cutting the piping was messy as I used my angle grinder with cutting disk. I spent a lot of time deburring.



Unfortuntely, no pics of the bead rolling. I still have a section to do and will post pics of that next time. This pipe is very heavy gauge and my hands are pretty stiff now after bead rolling only 2 pieces of piping.

Test-fitting of parts. To address where the pipe might make contact with the head bolt flanges, I'll either slide a piece of coupler on the pipe where it might abrade the piping. Or, I'll figure out some form of clamping device, metal strapping on rubber that could surround the pipe and bolt to the head. Or, both.





Unfortunately, the section of pipe that I had to remove from the elbows was a bit short and the base of the filter is contacting the transmission and dipstick tube. I need a piece about 3"-4" longer. The filter will be pushed out that distance from where is is in the pic.



As the engine bay gets more crowded, I'm starting to worry about airflow around the engine and turbo. As much as I hate the thought of it, I may ultimately have to install vents or a reverse hood scoop. I could also mount a low profile, thermostatically-controlled fan under the hood scoop. I guess I'll know when I start driving and at the tuner's if there will be an issue. I ordered a bunch of fiberglass reflective tubing for my water lines and oil supply line, though these are all a decent distance from the manifold, turbine and downpipe. Also considering a turbo blanket. The entire section of the intake that goes along the back of the engine will be covered in reflective fiberglass tape. I'll likely wrap the downpipe too.

[06YarisRS]

Today's progress

I had to 'mould' the intake piping more, especially by the right side of the engine. I was worried about the piping chafing on the upper valve cover bolts. I have acceptable clearance everywhere now and the pipe has been wrapped with the fiberglass reflective tape. All I have do now is make something to rigidly hold the piping in the center, where the coupler is to the back of the valve cover. I liked the look of the aluminum piping better before being wrapped, but it will all be hidden anyway.



New intercooler mounted. The hardware worked perfectly for attaching the intercooler to the bottom lip of the lower front frame. Funny thing is that they only sent 2 bolts and washers, but the intercooler has threaded posts for both top and bottom. Maybe it's only supposed to be attached either top or bottom and the couplers do the rest of the holding, allowing it to move a bit.



A little bump stop. There is about 3/4 of an inch between the intercooler and crash bar, but I figured I'd play it safe. More of that great turbo wastegate hose attached with RTV.



Piping connected. I still make contact with the foglight, but just have a few spots to bend over and grind away. I should have lots of clearance after I do that.

[tmontague]

Looking good man, keep it up!

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Looking good man, keep it up!

Thanks, Trevor. I appreciate it. It's a fun project.

A question for ya... You put a sandwich plate in after you upgraded to the screw-on filter mount, correct? Did you install an oil cooler?

[tmontague]

Originally Posted by 06YarisRS

Thanks, Trevor. I appreciate it. It's a fun project.

A question for ya... You put a sandwich plate in after you upgraded to the screw-on filter mount, correct? Did you install an oil cooler?

correct, this was the primary reason for my screw on filter mount upgrade.

I did not install a cooler however, there should be enough space in that area for oil lines you will just have to figure out a way to strap the lines secure as they run out to the cooler. They will technically run alongside the bottom end of the block.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

correct, this was the primary reason for my screw on filter mount upgrade.

I did not install a cooler however, there should be enough space in that area for oil lines you will just have to figure out a way to strap the lines secure as they run out to the cooler. They will technically run alongside the bottom end of the block.

Thanks. I had read that many of the sandwich plates would not fit due to proximity to the block, but obviously that's not true. There must be narrow ones available that have a small enough diameter to fit. Secondly, I'm thinking it might be a good idea to have an oil cooler, or minimally, at least initially, monitor oil temps. I was speaking to one of my son's hockey teammate's fathers who has built a number of performance cars, and he said that, in no uncertain terms, I should have an oil cooler. I hadn't mentioned to him that the turbo is water cooled, so that should make a difference. A cooler would also provide a little addditional oil in the system to aid in cooling.

How are you monitoring oil temps? Did you put a sensor in your sandwich plate? Unfortunately, Torque doesn't have access to that PID.

I am definitely installing a transmission cooler, but am on the fence about an oil cooler at this point.

[06YarisRS]

Piping Frame Mods

The right side piping now fits fine with about 3/8" - 1/2" clearance between body parts and charge piping at all locations. I'm still going to install rubber tubing at all locations with sharp edges. I'll pick up 4' - 5' of the smallest diameter rubber fuel line, cut and glue that with RTV to all potential wear areas. All that remains to do now at this corner of the car is to degrease, lightly sand, prime, paint and oil spray all the metal bits that I cut and bent. I'll install the BOV and clamps after washing all of the piping inside and out with soapy water and degreaser.

Area to be dealt with.



Slotting crumple zone tabs



Tabs pounded up



Large flange slots cutting



Good clearance



Fitting finished. Just need to trim up that right side intercooler coupler.






Update - Painted Frame Modifications



Rough placement of the transmission cooler. Will be picking up some hose this week and will run the cooler on the transmission return line, when I figure out which line it is.

[06YarisRS]

A Possible Breakthrough!

I had been pondering where to place my transmission cooler. I wasn't keen on stacking another cooling device in front of the radiator. I've also been concerned about my crowded engine bay and the potential of overheating.

There is a plastic shroud/cover that goes from the radiator over to the pasenger side. It covers a large opening behind which sits the A/C compressor. This opening is probably 1/3 of the width of the engine bay. If I place my transmission cooler in that area (it basically fills it with about a 1" space around the perimeter), I will accomplish a few things:

1) A much larger opening for cool air to enter the engine bay
2) No restriction to the radiator, better flow through it.
3) No heat transfer between the transmission cooler/rad and vvsa

I just have to make a mounting system for it. I have to do some reading on transmission cooler orientation. The way I propose, the tubes are vertical and I don't know if that would create an issue pumping the transmission fluid. I don't expect there would be an issue as it's very free flowing, but the fluid would be fighting gravity, but then again gravity would be helping on the downward runs.

EDIT: According to Derale, the coolers can be mounted vertically or horizontally.

[Maritime]

Nice. Looks like it was made to go there

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by Maritime

Nice. Looks like it was made to go there

Sent from my moto e5 play using Tapatalk

Haha, thanks. If I didn't have this one already, I would buy a plate and fin unit. However, this one should provide a lot of cooling as it's made for a mid-sized truck - half ton, I assume.

[tmontague]

Pro tip: transmission line that enters the trans high up tends to be the return line. The line that attaches low on the trans housing tends to be the feed line.

I went with that when flushing the trans fluid on my wife's Vibe and saved me quite a mess.

[06YarisRS]

Originally Posted by tmontague

Pro tip: transmission line that enters the trans high up tends to be the return line. The line that attaches low on the trans housing tends to be the feed line.

I went with that when flushing the trans fluid on my wife's Vibe and saved me quite a mess.

Good to know. Thanks much! Any idea how much pressure a typical A/T cooling circuit has?