tooter's next manifold adventure...

[j-san]

There is a slight power increase in the mid-3000RPM range. I kept an eye on the Scangauge whenever I was accelerating on the on-ramp and the car maintained a 3rd gear constant acceleration that was decent. I drive a regular route to work and back and frequently have to force the tranny into 2nd just to get an appreciable increase in speed.

For this first this first tank, it seems to be right in the norm for mileage. I usually get about 95 miles before the first bar in the gauge disappears. With the spacer on, I got 98. I usually go till the pump auto-stops for a consistent fill-up. I'm not expecting massive gains here, especially for the first tank, but we will see.

I wonder if a dyno sheet for an auto tranny would look much different from yours, Greg? I think you said your dyno run was done by putting the car in 3rd and then mashing the gas pedal?

[tooter]

Originally Posted by j-san

There is a slight power increase in the mid-3000RPM range. I kept an eye on the Scangauge whenever I was accelerating on the on-ramp and the car maintained a 3rd gear constant acceleration that was decent. I drive a regular route to work and back and frequently have to force the tranny into 2nd just to get an appreciable increase in speed.

For this first this first tank, it seems to be right in the norm for mileage. I usually get about 95 miles before the first bar in the gauge disappears. With the spacer on, I got 98. I usually go till the pump auto-stops for a consistent fill-up. I'm not expecting massive gains here, especially for the first tank, but we will see.

I wonder if a dyno sheet for an auto tranny would look much different from yours, Greg? I think you said your dyno run was done by putting the car in 3rd and then mashing the gas pedal?

Yes, an auto trans dyno run would be different because when you mash the pedal the transmission kicks down to a lower gear. So the run would always begin recording at way higher rpms.

It might just be a coincidence, but making the runners 10% longer yielded a 10% lower torque peak. Although it's highly likely that relationship would break down pretty rapidly if continued.

Our mileage gets shot to hell because my wife drives the car, but when I drive it's easy to short shift at 2,000rpms without straining or lugging the engine.


Greg

[Kaotic Lazagna]

http://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/yar.../07Vios/183168

Before I traded Vios in. I installed the Tooter spacer on entry 46. As you can see, every tank after that saw an increase of 2-3 mpg.

[tooter]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

http://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/yar.../07Vios/183168

Before I traded Vios in. I installed the Tooter spacer on entry 46. As you can see, every tank after that saw an increase of 2-3 mpg.

That's pretty impressive...
I did get to drive with the spacer when we took a trip and my best mileage was 42.1 mpg at 65-75 mph on the interstate. But just driving around town with no freeway, my wife has only been averaging 37.5 mpg.


Greg

[j-san]

Hey Greg,

I know you run a short ram intake with cone filter. Did you have to do any mods to get that to work with the Tooter manifold or the spacer? I'm considering an intake like the AFE or maybe the K&N Typhoon. I doubt it would make serious gains, but I'm more curious about it improving MPG and perhaps a little performance increase.

On the other hand, I've also read that the stock intakes are engineered to deliver more flow than the engine could ever use and they also maintain a standing volume of still air within the box, ready to be sucked into the engine. Perhaps I should just look into a higher flow filter that fits the stock air box and go with that?

[tooter]

Originally Posted by j-san

Hey Greg,

I know you run a short ram intake with cone filter. Did you have to do any mods to get that to work with the Tooter manifold or the spacer?

Just cutting the tube short so that I could fit the oversized BLOX velocity stack filter under the hood. The nice thing about an SRI is that it can easily be moved right along with the throttle body when it's relocated by the spacer.






When the engine is running at low rpms, any intake is underutilized, even the stock air box. I put a mini velocity stack on mine when I ran it.







I'm considering an intake like the AFE or maybe the K&N Typhoon. I doubt it would make serious gains, but I'm more curious about it improving MPG and perhaps a little performance increase.[/quote]

They do make a nice sound... but that's about it.

On the other hand, I've also read that the stock intakes are engineered to deliver more flow than the engine could ever use and they also maintain a standing volume of still air within the box, ready to be sucked into the engine. Perhaps I should just look into a higher flow filter that fits the stock air box and go with that?

I tried all sorts of intakes, and none of them really made much difference when compared to manifolds, spacers, throttle bodies, headers, and exhausts.

Greg

[dragoonmc]

Hey all,
So my install of this spacer was on an auto trans.
I found that it actually hurt my mileage even after it re learned its stuff.
I had about a 2 mpg drop from last summer so i took it off and the mpg came back up to match last year

[tooter]

Do you realize that the spacer can't alter your air/fuel ratio?

It just makes the intake runners longer. So it's obvious that there is something else going on besides the spacer.

But if you're not satisfied and feel that it is to blame for your gas mileage, simply return it undamaged with its gasket and all of the hardware and I'll refund your money.

Greg Mamishian
21444 Entrada Road
Topanga, CA 90290

[Slitwrist Smile]

Originally Posted by tooter

Do you realize that the spacer can't alter your air/fuel ratio?

It just makes the intake runners longer. So it's obvious that there is something else going on besides the spacer.

But if you're not satisfied and feel that it is to blame for your gas mileage, simply return it undamaged with its gasket and all of the hardware and I'll refund your money.

Toot - you may want to remove your address for privacy reasons. Just trying to look out for the well being of forum members. Everyone on here might be a good person, but outside of YW, you don't know what scammers might try to do. You might want to edit your post (i removed the address from the quote I am posting) and PM it to the user it was intended for.

[tooter]

Originally Posted by Slitwrist Smile

Toot - you may want to remove your address for privacy reasons. Just trying to look out for the well being of forum members. Everyone on here might be a good person, but outside of YW, you don't know what scammers might try to do. You might want to edit your post (i removed the address from the quote I am posting) and PM it to the user it was intended for.

Thanks for your concern.

I've been posting my name and address for years and have never had any problems being a public business . No one can scam me anyways.


Greg

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by dragoonmc

Hey all,
So my install of this spacer was on an auto trans.
I found that it actually hurt my mileage even after it re learned its stuff.
I had about a 2 mpg drop from last summer so i took it off and the mpg came back up to match last year

Were there any gaps between the spacer and the manifold and/or head?

[tooter]

That would very likely cause the ECU to throw a code.

I know this by personal experience because at the time I installed the prototype, the new gaskets hadn't come in yet. I was really anxious to run it and used an old gasket that was laying around. It triggered a fuel trim code because it leaked.

There's something else going on that we don't know about. But I won't argue with the guy. If he's not happy with his gas mileage and feels the spacer is the cause, he gets his money back.


Greg

[j-san]

I've now put a few tanks through my Yaris with the Tooter spacer. I did not notice any significant change in MPG. One tank was worse by about 1.8MPG and two tanks were better, one by 0.4MPG and the second by 1.1MPG. I think it has more to do with the variations in traffic and how heavy my foot is than the spacer. Sometimes I am running late and need to get moving faster and other days I am early and take my time accelerating and do more coasting. I imagine the ECU has learned what it needs with the spacer in place. I cannot feel any difference in daily driving, but it just seems like the tranny is more hesitant to downshift than before. I would understand that to mean the engine is probably pulling with a little more torque and thus, feels it does not need to downshift unless I force it or mash the pedal. I guess I still need to run more tanks to see if there is a greater change in MPG beyond the standard deviation. So far, everything runs as it should.

[ezhacker1]

I was able to install the spacer and keep the heat shield on the AFE intake.

Did an initial test 6 mile test run city/hwy after ECU reset just to make sure car runs fine.

1. Idle warmed up RPM is lowered ~25rpm from 620 to 595.
2. Blipping the throttle is sensitive, like having the throttle controller on.
3. Letting the engine lug the car forward is much stronger. Sure the car is shaking but works stronger on my slight inclined driveway.
4. Although idle RPM is lowered, fuel consumption/hour hasn't changed, still 0.125/HR

Manual Transmission
Related Mods: AFE Intake, DC Sports axle back

[tooter]

Originally Posted by ezhacker1

3. Letting the engine lug the car forward is much stronger. Sure the car is shaking but works stronger on my slight inclined driveway.

I call that the "tractor effect". If you've ever driven a tractor, the engine does exactly the same thing... the high torque low rpm engines vibrate harmonically as they pull because the time between each power stroke is so long. We have a steep driveway that I measured with an inclinometer at 10%. I have fun going up it in my truck at below idle 500rpm. It just vibrates right up the hill like a tractor without lugging or bucking.

This is one of the strange attributes of the intake manifold spacer that doesn't show up on the dyno runs because it's "below the radar".

Off idle partial throttle performance is superb. If you have a manual transmission there's less clutch slipping needed just to get the car moving.

Greg

[ezhacker1]

Yup, agree to all. I re-edit my previous post to fix error. I meant to say RPM was lowered but fuel consumption hasnt changed still 0.125/hr.

Doing the install did give me a chance to see how clean the intake valves were, there's some light oil that a catch can would take care of.

Edit:
After driving today looks like ecu is learning. Idle fuel consumption warmed up is now 0.116 gal/hr and subsequent using a catch can lowers it do 0.106 gal/hr.

Edit 2:
So i was stuck in stop and go traffic, and was able to use 2nd gear to keep the car crawling forward using no throttle at all, as long as i was not completely stopped. / 5th gear hill climb on a particular hwy of mine is also doable now, I normally have to go down to 4th. These two things helped me get 49 mpg on a 14.4 mile run, where 41% was city and 3 miles were that stop/go traffic.

[tooter]

Yeah, the car creeps really good...
I also have fun in traffic doing standing starts in first just with the clutch and no gas. It even does it on a slight incline with no bucking or stalling.

That's really outstanding mileage results! I'm glad you're able to record yours. I'll never know what mine can get because my wife drives the car more than I do...


Greg

[ezhacker1]

If my wheels didnt weigh 43lb, i would be able to creep better lol. I might switch back to my 28lb Team Dynamics 14s.

I havent had a chance to dyno the car, but another evidence of the torque curve moved is seen in how DFCO now cuts off at 750rpm vs stock, which i believe is 1000 or 1100, so there's quite a change.