DIY - 1.8L 1ZZ-FE TB Connector Chip Swap - Page 9 - Toyota Yaris Forums

marcus · 04-29-2009, 02:08 PM

bump for update...

jkuchta · 04-29-2009, 02:55 PM

MGragano, What is the code for the CEL? Have you adjusted the idle set screw yet?

MGargano · 04-29-2009, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkuchta

MGragano, What is the code for the CEL? Have you adjusted the idle set screw yet?

P0505- Idle Malfunction. No, I haven't adjusted the idle screw.

BLAZINBLUEVITZ · 04-29-2009, 04:43 PM

9 PAGES and i still see a CEL.......

jkuchta · 04-29-2009, 06:41 PM

^

That's why you get a CEL. You MUST adjust the idle to get rid of that CEL, as it's a result of the ECU having to over-adjust to hit a target idle RPM. Re-read thread #78, and you will more than likely get rid of the CEL for good.

mikenacarato · 04-29-2009, 09:32 PM

no you dont. i didnt touch my idle screw, its still covered in the hard crap. all i did was the chip swap, nothing else.

eii · 05-02-2009, 04:11 PM

Cool thanks for the diy.

I got my 1zz tb from crxgames. I removed the rivets, swapped the chips, screwed them on, and added some rvt gasket maker. Plugged in the new 1zz tb with the 1nz chip and started her up. This was after I had disconnected the battery for an hour. So it started to oscilate from 2-3k like many others have mentioned. I waited for exactly 10 minutes and it ended up idling at around the same rpms as the stock tb. Drove around a bit and no cel. I didnt mess with the idle screw cause the idle was just fine. I had to run some errands and every time I started up my car no problems or cel. I have yet to start my car during a cold start up so I'll chime back in here with results. The ecu hasnt learned the changes completely yet, my auto keeps shifting too early still. I can tell theres gonna be a ton of power over 3k. I'm not sure thought, but i think i'm feeling a lot of increase in low end...@_@

Getting some headers worked on right now, should compliment the TB very well.

jkuchta · 05-02-2009, 04:22 PM

Mike, Mgargano's specific CEL is more than likely caused by the idle screw not being adjusted.

cali yaris · 05-02-2009, 04:28 PM

Quote:

You MUST adjust the idle to get rid of that CEL

right -- read the whole sentence above, it's to get rid of a CEL. If you didn't get a CEL, you don't have to adjust it.

marcus · 05-03-2009, 09:16 AM

bumpin..

PHXDEMON · 05-05-2009, 11:02 PM

HELP!!!!!!!! PLEASE!!!!!!!! I am in the middle of installing this TB with the afe intake the issue I am having is the coupler for the intake is hitting the screws and wont go on all the way. I have tried with all my strength to push it on further with no luck. Also I am unable to wedge the hose clamp in between the coupler and the screws. Any Ideas? I was thinking about shaving out some of the inside of the coupler, but how would I go about doing it? here's a pic so you can see what I amj talking about.

MGargano · 05-05-2009, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PHXDEMON

HELP!!!!!!!! PLEASE!!!!!!!! I am in the middle of installing this TB with the afe intake the issue I am having is the coupler for the intake is hitting the screws and wont go on all the way. I have tried with all my strength to push it on further with no luck. Also I am unable to wedge the hose clamp in between the coupler and the screws. Any Ideas? I was thinking about shaving out some of the inside of the coupler, but how would I go about doing it? here's a pic so you can see what I amj talking about.

I have my 1ZZ installed with an AFE intake also. I bolted the TB to the intake manifold first, then slid the coupler onto the TB as far as it would go, right up to the studs. I couldn't fit a hose clamp on there either, but I've driven it about 1,000 miles with no problems. The coupler is wedged in between the intake and TB pretty tightly, so I don't think you'll have any problems with it moving/leaking. I know others are using the same TB & intake with no hose clamp, so I think you'll be fine

Yaris T-Sport. · 05-05-2009, 11:09 PM

thats why I use a bigger hose clamp

MGargano · 05-05-2009, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yaris T-Sport.

thats why I use a bigger hose clamp

It wasn't the width/diameter that was a problem, it was the length of the TB's neck that stuck out past the studs. It was barely wider than the hose clamp itself, so it kept slipping & popping off

Yaris T-Sport. · 05-05-2009, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGargano

It wasn't the width/diameter that was a problem, it was the length of the TB's neck that stuck out past the studs. It was barely wider than the hose clamp itself, so it kept slipping & popping off

maybe use a few zip ties?

mikenacarato · 05-05-2009, 11:04 PM

and you cannot get the clamp to clamp tight just before the studs?

MGargano · 05-05-2009, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikenacarato

and you cannot get the clamp to clamp tight just before the studs?

I tried to use a hose clamp when I did the install the first time. It stayed on for bit, but once the engine got hot, the clamp popped right off. The neck of the TB isn't long enough to clear the studs & fit a hose clamp.

PHXDEMON · 05-05-2009, 11:28 PM

I guess ill just run in without the clamp and cross my fingers

04-29-2009, 04:43 PM	#4
BLAZINBLUEVITZ View User's Garage Drives: 2007 YARIS 3DOOR Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: NEW YORK Posts: 1,275	9 PAGES and i still see a CEL....... __________________ EVERYBODY EVENTUALLY COMES BACK TO YARISWORLD......

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04-29-2009, 02:08 PM	#1
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04-29-2009, 02:55 PM	#2
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	MGragano, What is the code for the CEL? Have you adjusted the idle set screw yet?

04-29-2009, 06:41 PM	#5
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	^ That's why you get a CEL. You MUST adjust the idle to get rid of that CEL, as it's a result of the ECU having to over-adjust to hit a target idle RPM. Re-read thread #78, and you will more than likely get rid of the CEL for good.

04-29-2009, 09:32 PM	#6
mikenacarato SIPNDEW View User's Garage Drives: 15 STI Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brentwood, TN Posts: 2,281	no you dont. i didnt touch my idle screw, its still covered in the hard crap. all i did was the chip swap, nothing else.

05-02-2009, 04:11 PM	#7
eii Rides canyon walls Drives: 1988 RX7 FC 10th AE Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Long Beach, CA Posts: 503	Cool thanks for the diy. I got my 1zz tb from crxgames. I removed the rivets, swapped the chips, screwed them on, and added some rvt gasket maker. Plugged in the new 1zz tb with the 1nz chip and started her up. This was after I had disconnected the battery for an hour. So it started to oscilate from 2-3k like many others have mentioned. I waited for exactly 10 minutes and it ended up idling at around the same rpms as the stock tb. Drove around a bit and no cel. I didnt mess with the idle screw cause the idle was just fine. I had to run some errands and every time I started up my car no problems or cel. I have yet to start my car during a cold start up so I'll chime back in here with results. The ecu hasnt learned the changes completely yet, my auto keeps shifting too early still. I can tell theres gonna be a ton of power over 3k. I'm not sure thought, but i think i'm feeling a lot of increase in low end...@_@ Getting some headers worked on right now, should compliment the TB very well. __________________ OEM Style Wing Spoiler \| TRD Axle-Back Exhaust \| Megan Lowering Springs (1.5 f/r) \| Simota Carbon Charger Intake \| Python 871XP Alarm System \| Aluminum Sports Pedal \| 17x7 +42mm Enkei J10 Black w/ Silver Lip \| 205/40 Falken Ziex-912 \| NST Lite Crank Pulley Red \| 1ZZ-FE Throttle Body \| AMK Racing Header Last edited by eii; 05-02-2009 at 04:23 PM.

05-02-2009, 04:22 PM	#8
jkuchta View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris hatch (red) Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: L.A. Posts: 557	Mike, Mgargano's specific CEL is more than likely caused by the idle screw not being adjusted.

05-03-2009, 09:16 AM	#10
marcus toyota View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Yaris RS Blazed Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: toronto, canada Posts: 3,637	bumpin..

05-05-2009, 11:02 PM	#11
PHXDEMON View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Red Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 885	HELP!!!!!!!! PLEASE!!!!!!!! I am in the middle of installing this TB with the afe intake the issue I am having is the coupler for the intake is hitting the screws and wont go on all the way. I have tried with all my strength to push it on further with no luck. Also I am unable to wedge the hose clamp in between the coupler and the screws. Any Ideas? I was thinking about shaving out some of the inside of the coupler, but how would I go about doing it? here's a pic so you can see what I amj talking about.

05-05-2009, 11:09 PM	#13
Yaris T-Sport. Drives: . Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: . Posts: 10	thats why I use a bigger hose clamp

05-05-2009, 11:04 PM	#16
mikenacarato SIPNDEW View User's Garage Drives: 15 STI Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Brentwood, TN Posts: 2,281	and you cannot get the clamp to clamp tight just before the studs?

05-05-2009, 11:28 PM	#18
PHXDEMON View User's Garage Drives: 2007 Red Liftback Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 885	I guess ill just run in without the clamp and cross my fingers