DIY Cruise Control on 07-08 Yaris (step by step)

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by goat1of2

Well, as you can probably tell from the stupid questions I was asking, this mod was way way beyond me. I have now broken a part and am wondering if you would identify which Toyota part number it is (where do you find these numbers?)

It is the plastic locking lever which locks in and holds connector A21. Picture enclosed.

Also, I did another stupid thing which seemed smart at the time: I pushed the plug over Pin 40 down through the connector. Of course it didn't come out the other side. I was supposed to pull it OUT! Stupid stupid. Now my special 20.00 connnector orderd from Toyota will not seat. Any suggestions? Other than just shooting myself now.

Yikes!

I don't see the locking lever listed anywhere in the EPC, so for that one you'll have to check with the parts person at your local dealer to see if it can be purchased (otherwise you might have to try to find one at a junkyard).

for getting that rubber plug back out, try pushing it from the pin side. If that doesn't work, you might be able to pull it out the wire side using a sewing pin with the tip bent into a hook.

[goat1of2]

There is a part number on the lever but it says "Tyco 90980-12589"

Tried googling it but nothing yet.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by goat1of2

There is a part number on the lever but it says "Tyco 90980-12589"

Tried googling it but nothing yet.

Tyco, Sumitomo, etc. make many custom connectors for Toyota, which you can't purchase from anyone, except the manufacturer or Toyota.

[Sodium Duck]

I also did that with the rubber thing in the connector, too. Just take a needle and push it back out the right way, it'll go. I had a lot of trouble too with that stupid connector. That black sliding piece wouldn't go back on, and after 10 minutes of fudging around with it, I just took it off and put the gray piece back on and slid it into place.

Don't worry - your car is not dead.

[goat1of2]

Originally Posted by Sodium Duck

I also did that with the rubber thing in the connector, too. Just take a needle and push it back out the right way, it'll go. I had a lot of trouble too with that stupid connector. That black sliding piece wouldn't go back on, and after 10 minutes of fudging around with it, I just took it off and put the gray piece back on and slid it into place.

Don't worry - your car is not dead.

Thank you, Mr (or Ms) Duck, for your kind words of sympathy. The boyfriend came home after work and somehow managed to reinstall the piece I'd broken and superglued back together. Car now runs. PHEW! Back to square one.

He tried for quite some time to work out that plug using a pin, a thicker piece of wire, and just some general cussing. He says he can see the plug down in there and it is kind of sideways, allowing a wire to go right through to the other side, without piercing the plug.

He wants to use a tiny drill bit and DRILL the plug to bits. I say we don't know what the heck is inside that connection hole, so we risk ruining a 500.00 component! We might just smear the material the plug is made of all up inside there, making a worse mess. We might somehow screw up the neighboring connector, which has a wire already in it.

I want to try leaving the plug in and just pushing a single-strand AWG 20 wire through the connector and seeing if THAT will make a good-enough connection. A wire of that description does go right through.

So, do we try it his way or my way? Or, do I just cover the hole left by the missing plug with electrical tape and pronounce this vehicle PERMANENTLY WITHOUT CRUISE CONTROL.

I hope at least you all are getting a good laugh out of this!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by goat1of2

Thank you, Mr (or Ms) Duck, for your kind words of sympathy. The boyfriend came home after work and somehow managed to reinstall the piece I'd broken and superglued back together. Car now runs. PHEW! Back to square one.

He tried for quite some time to work out that plug using a pin, a thicker piece of wire, and just some general cussing. He says he can see the plug down in there and it is kind of sideways, allowing a wire to go right through to the other side, without piercing the plug.

He wants to use a tiny drill bit and DRILL the plug to bits. I say we don't know what the heck is inside that connection hole, so we risk ruining a 500.00 component! We might just smear the material the plug is made of all up inside there, making a worse mess. We might somehow screw up the neighboring connector, which has a wire already in it.

I want to try leaving the plug in and just pushing a single-strand AWG 20 wire through the connector and seeing if THAT will make a good-enough connection. A wire of that description does go right through.

So, do we try it his way or my way? Or, do I just cover the hole left by the missing plug with electrical tape and pronounce this vehicle PERMANENTLY WITHOUT CRUISE CONTROL.

I hope at least you all are getting a good laugh out of this!

I would avoid the drill bit route, as that has the potential to do unnecessary damage. The cavity that the plug is stuck in is rectangular, so it is fairly easy to have it round plug end of sideways in there. The drill bit will probably just chew up the soft sides of the cavity, rather than the plug. The key with the plug being wedged is to get something to hook deep enough into the plug to allow it to be pulled.

[rcspott]

Goat,

You have a Private Message

[fratzica]

Damn...
I really need the cruise control function because I drive a lot outside town and I get tired of holding the accelerator pedal at a certain speed. Probably got used to the cruise control because my last car had this function. Just yesterday i drove almost 1000 km or 620 miles and had to take a 1 hour nap on the return trip. I know 620 miles is not a lot in the US due to your highway system, but in my country we have only 2 (yes, two) highways, most of the roads having one lane for each direction only.
Anyway.. I`ll try to find a cheaper solution :)
Thank you Scott for your help!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by fratzica

Damn...
I really need the cruise control function because I drive a lot outside town and I get tired of holding the accelerator pedal at a certain speed. Probably got used to the cruise control because my last car had this function. Just yesterday i drove almost 1000 km or 620 miles and had to take a 1 hour nap on the return trip. I know 620 miles is not a lot in the US due to your highway system, but in my country we have only 2 (yes, two) highways, most of the roads having one lane for each direction only.
Anyway.. I`ll try to find a cheaper solution :)
Thank you Scott for your help!

You might want to contact the company in the link below. They are based in Denmark and make cruise control kits for various vehicles that can even use the OEM cruise control stalk. They definitely make one for the Auris D-4D, so they should have one for the Yaris D-4D as well.

http://www.el-pas.com/products_ecruise.htm

[fratzica]

Just sent them an e-mail. Fingers crossed :D

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by fratzica

Just sent them an e-mail. Fingers crossed :D

Here's another potential option; I believe that The Rostra cruise control kit, which is used as the dealer added cruise control on US Yaris, would work as well.

I just noticed in the EWDs for the D-4D, that the wiring to the accelerator pedal (connector A20) is the same as for our US cars. The Rostra kit connects to the accelerator pedal connector, the neutral safety switch (AT) or tach wire (MT), the vehicle speed sensor wire, and the brake switch. So, I think it would work fine on your D-4D.

Here's a place that sells the Rostra kits for $249:

http://www.thecruisecontrolstore.com...g/X380183/0003

[fratzica]

thecruisocontrostore.com ships only in the US and Canada.. Let`s see what the people from el-pas.com say.

[weaver615]

I made the connection direct to PIN 40 on the ECM. Ran positive wire thru firewall to the ECM pushed out the rubber block and fed the wire down til it came out the other side and trimmed it as close to the connector as possible. Put the wire shield back on and re-connected the ECM....Should I try using 2 - 330ohm resistors they are a quarter watt but the wattage shouldn't make that much of a difference I don't think should it?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by weaver615

I made the connection direct to PIN 40 on the ECM. Ran positive wire thru firewall to the ECM pushed out the rubber block and fed the wire down til it came out the other side and trimmed it as close to the connector as possible. Put the wire shield back on and re-connected the ECM....Should I try using 2 - 330ohm resistors they are a quarter watt but the wattage shouldn't make that much of a difference I don't think should it?

Since you are using a wire, rather than the connector pin, make sure that the connection is good. You can measure the voltage at the other end of that wire and with the ignition on it should be 12V.

For the resistor(s), 1/4 watt is fine (even 1/8 watt would be fine, as the current draw is negligible).

[weaver615]

Whatt would you suggest? Leave the wires as they are and cut at the switches and rebuild the circuit then splice back into the wires already ran, I would rebuild it using a radioshack 560 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor. Or, should I just tear everything out and start fresh, new circuit, new wires, etc. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it. I want Cruise soo bad!!!! lol

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by weaver615

Whatt would you suggest? Leave the wires as they are and cut at the switches and rebuild the circuit then splice back into the wires already ran, I would rebuild it using a radioshack 560 ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor. Or, should I just tear everything out and start fresh, new circuit, new wires, etc. Thanks for the help I really appreciate it. I want Cruise soo bad!!!! lol

You could rebuild it and splice it back in.

[weaver615]

Would it be safe to leave the clutch jumpered until I can buy the acutal switch from the dealer? I know I would have to be careful NOT to push the clutch down until after I disengaged the cruise.

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by weaver615

Would it be safe to leave the clutch jumpered until I can buy the acutal switch from the dealer? I know I would have to be careful NOT to push the clutch down until after I disengaged the cruise.

It is, as long as you do remember.