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11-10-2012, 03:27 PM | #1 |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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My Long Tube header build
Well I figured I would start here just to let everyone know that I've started step one on my long tube header build and got the parts needed to make it. Hopefully I can get this finished in the next couple of weeks as I need a few parts cut.
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11-10-2012, 06:05 PM | #2 |
play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,961
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I'll be following your exhaust project with great interest. Be sure to post lots of pics.
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11-10-2012, 07:37 PM | #3 |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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Thanks, I've had this design on paper for a while so its finally time to move forward.
I should have the flange cut some time next week...kind of surprised how close my design was from working from some random dimensions I found on the internet and looking at pictures. The only problem I'm running into now is that 1.375" mandrel U-Bends are ridiculously difficult to find but otherwise everything else is pretty much ready to move forward. The only thing left I really need to get a hold of is a stock manifold so I can jig everything up and get the basic shape tacked in place then test fitting and fixing everything in place and finish machining the flange so its surface can take a gasket. |
11-10-2012, 11:14 PM | #4 |
play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 1,961
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If I was going to build a header, I'd get one of these cheapies off Ebay for $59 and free shipping...
...chop off the tubes and use the factory machined ready-to-bolt-on flange, 4 to1 collector, O2 sensor bung, and two bolt gasketed fitting for your own long tube header. It's worth more than that just as separate parts. |
11-10-2012, 11:58 PM | #5 |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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Most of the cheapies use 1.5" tubing which is way way to large for this engine so you'll end up with a huge loss of torque and a powerband that's to high up. I initially thought of that but the material cost of the header isn't all that expensive and buying SS to modify that thing isn't worth it.
I'm building it out of regular carbon steel even making the flange myself and all in it should be less than 300 dollars for metal plus the 3-4 hours its going to take me to weld everything up. I'm actually working on a 4-2-1 header, so I can make it small enough to fit before the second cat. |
11-11-2012, 12:30 AM | #6 | |
play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
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Posts: 1,961
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Quote:
Steel should be easier to work with. I'll enjoy seeing what you come up with. |
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11-11-2012, 12:58 AM | #7 |
Drives: 2005 Toyota Echo Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Brampton, ON
Posts: 505
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When I finally build mine, it's going to be a 1.5" to 1.75" to 2.0" 4-2-1 header. From the numbers, it's a bit big, but it will be 30-36" long, so the power band should peak in the 4-5k area.
Can't wait to see your build! :)
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2006 Saturn Ion Redline 2005 Toyota Echo RS 4dr hatch - Cyl #3 bad - sold 2000 Toyota Echo 2dr coupe - The track car - rusty & scrapped |
11-11-2012, 01:29 AM | #8 |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
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All i'm going to say is 1.5" is really really big for initial primaries if you're dead set on that I'd set it from 1.375 to 1.5. Going to big on the primaries is bad but going to small isn't necessarily.
Overall I think the length is close to 30" but my peak torque spot shouldn't change only get a few % higher. |
11-11-2012, 10:46 AM | #9 |
play every day
Drives: 2012 Yaris L 2dr 5sp Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Los Angeles
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I notice that you're SoCal, namer. How will you deal with smog tests?
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11-11-2012, 12:24 PM | #10 |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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Since my setup still has a cat it should pass but I'll likely just swap back the stock parts for the smog test.
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11-11-2012, 02:53 PM | #11 |
ULTIMATE
Drives: 07 Yaris Turbo Join Date: May 2007
Location: Canoga Park, CA
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pics pics pics
[subscribed]
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Micro Image forums, online store and shop are now closed. It was a great eight year run, but it was time to focus on other things. I'm still selling parts on eBay under micro*image seller ID and customers can still make requests for anything specific. |
11-11-2012, 03:19 PM | #12 |
Form>Function
Drives: 07 Flint Sedan Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Tampa
Posts: 4,018
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There was a race header in works pre-hack so glad someone's finally going through it!
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11-11-2012, 03:28 PM | #13 |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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I'll try to get as many pics as possible
I think that was richard holdener's header. I looked at his design for initial inspiration but there was a few things here and there I felt that could be improved. The 4-1 design works and it works really well but I can accomplish the same performance if not better in a lighter/smaller 4-2-1 package, the only downside being that a 4-2-1 is more expensive to make due to all the collectors required to make it work. |
11-11-2012, 03:32 PM | #14 |
Form>Function
Drives: 07 Flint Sedan Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Tampa
Posts: 4,018
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It was his.
Well I'm sribin |
11-12-2012, 05:51 PM | #15 |
If Its Not Blown It Sucks
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I'm not a metalurgist but the ebay one is about as stainless as a hookers underwear. I bought one and am currently using it with no failure. Upon slight modification, I learned that I could weld on it with mild wire and it held up very well to a grinder. Penetration was good and rainbowing was non-existent. I would almost guess that they use the minimum possible chromium and nickel to be able to call it stainless. As soon as this header craps out, I'm using the flange to make a long tube header myself.
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11-12-2012, 07:51 PM | #16 |
Drives: 2005 Toyota Echo Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Brampton, ON
Posts: 505
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You can get flanges on eBay for about $30 + shipping, that's where I got my OBX flange from.
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2006 Saturn Ion Redline 2005 Toyota Echo RS 4dr hatch - Cyl #3 bad - sold 2000 Toyota Echo 2dr coupe - The track car - rusty & scrapped |
11-12-2012, 08:01 PM | #17 |
0-60 in slow
Drives: light blue liftback Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: so cal
Posts: 926
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That was originally my plan but I didn't like the sloppiness of the OBX flange from the pictures, plus being 1/2" thick would be a bitch to weld on. So I decided to draw and make my own. It's in a format the machinist likes and I should have it cut some time this week.
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11-12-2012, 09:34 PM | #18 | |
Drives: 2005 Toyota Echo Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Brampton, ON
Posts: 505
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Quote:
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2006 Saturn Ion Redline 2005 Toyota Echo RS 4dr hatch - Cyl #3 bad - sold 2000 Toyota Echo 2dr coupe - The track car - rusty & scrapped |
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