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Old 01-17-2021, 03:57 PM   #1
RMcG
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatchback
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 199
Rear seat removal instructions needed for 2008 base model Yaris hatchback

I need instructions for how to take the rear seat out of a 2008 base model Yaris hatchback. Unfortunately the rear carpet and the underlying pads are wet from a leak. So it looks like I will be forced to take out the rear seat to get the carpet and underlying pads up/out and dry. I have found instructions online for different Yaris models where the seats seem significantly different from what I have. Examples online I have found are for seats that are split and slide and have Torx bolts.

But the seat in this base model hatchback is not split and it does not slide: it is all one piece and does not move (slide). (This base model does not even have a rear windshield wiper.) Attached is a picture of the bolt attaching the front of the left side of the rear seat to the car floor. This bolt has a simple, common hex nut head. (This bolt goes through the area of the carpet that is wet). There is another similar bolt on the other (right) side. I can feel, but not see one or two bolts that are behind the seat.

QUESTIONS: Does anybody know where I can get instructions for removing the rear seat from a 2008 base model Yaris hatchback?

Is it a big, difficult job?

Any other tips will be appreciated.

Thank you,

R.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg YarisRearSeatBoltPic.jpg (87.7 KB, 85 views)

Last edited by RMcG; 01-18-2021 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 01-18-2021, 09:20 PM   #2
RMcG
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatchback
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 199
Update: I pryed up the front corners of the lower part of the rear seat and there is a external Torx bolt under each corner (see attached photo) holding down the lower part of the rear seat. I measured the diameter to this external Torx bolt and it is about 11/32 of an inch. This works out to an interpoint distance of about 0.179 inches; so this should be about size T25.

See https://www.garagesanctum.com/size-c...rx-size-chart/ and see this image of an external torx bolt from
Bimmer World

I am hopeful that perhaps I can remove these two external torx bolts and the two hex bolts described in my previous post and get the carpet up and the underlying pads exposed without actually removing the seat. (It feels like the lower part of the seat cannot removed just by removing these 4 bolts, because the center of the lower part of the seat still seems to be secured in its center.)

Any comments or tips that anybody has will be appreciated.

Thanks,

R.

ExternalTorxBolt-2.jpg
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Old 01-18-2021, 10:43 PM   #3
momoivanoff
 
Drives: Yaris 2009 Hatchback
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 7
That's a security torx and it's not a T,it's an E and I most likely to be an E10 as I said.I doubt that Toyota have used a different size on the 2008 base model.
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Old 01-18-2021, 11:25 PM   #4
RMcG
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatchback
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 199
Quote:
Originally Posted by momoivanoff View Post
That's a security torx and it's not a T,it's an E and I most likely to be an E10 as I said.I doubt that Toyota have used a different size on the 2008 base model.
Thanks Ivanoff,

I am just groping for the terminology so I can buy the right wrench to unloosen the bolt. There is a picture of a similar bolt at belmetric.com that seems to be referred to as having an "external torx drive" and the size is E10. So apparently the head of the bolt is referred to as a "drive."

The diameter of the threaded part of this "bolt" appears to be 10 mm. The diameter of the head of the bolt I got by measuring was about 11/32 = 8.7 mm, which is close to the 10 mm of the threaded part of the "bolt." So that is consistent with an external torx drive that is size E10.

So it looks like you are right. So what size & type of wrench would I need? I put PB Blaster penetrating oil on the bolt heads today.

Thanks,

R.
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Old 01-18-2021, 11:46 PM   #5
momoivanoff
 
Drives: Yaris 2009 Hatchback
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 7
While looking at it,do you think PB Blaster can get down to the thread? I am repeating myself for a second time,use an impact wrench,a good one.
P.S. I used penetrating fluid too,to no avail.
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Old 01-19-2021, 12:51 AM   #6
RMcG
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatchback
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 199
Quote:
Originally Posted by momoivanoff View Post
While looking at it,do you think PB Blaster can get down to the thread? I am repeating myself for a second time,use an impact wrench,a good one.
P.S. I used penetrating fluid too,to no avail.
You are right, PB Blaster will probably not get down to the threads. Fortunately I have relatives nearby who may have an E10 Torx socket and an impact wrench. I don't have an impact wrench and it would be expensive to buy one, but cheaper and easier compared to dealing with a sheared off head.

I wonder if a manual impact driver such as one at Amazon here would work as well as an impact wrench. I don't know for sure these bolts are stuck/rusted yet. I haven't yet tried to remove them.

Here is a youtube link describing a manual impact driver from another forum post here .

I have also lightly tapped the bolts with a hammer after application of the PB Blaster as suggested in previous posts, maybe that will help.

Thanks,

R.

Last edited by RMcG; 01-19-2021 at 02:16 AM. Reason: to add more info about manual impact drivers
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Old 01-20-2021, 05:11 PM   #7
ghowey
 
Drives: 2010 Yaris Sedan
Join Date: Mar 2018
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I have a pdf manual for a 2007 model. The file is too larger to upload to the Forum. If you would like to PM me off Forum I will send it to you.
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Old 01-23-2021, 06:02 PM   #8
RMcG
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatchback
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 199
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghowey View Post
I have a pdf manual for a 2007 model. The file is too larger to upload to the Forum. If you would like to PM me off Forum I will send it to you.
Thanks ghowey,

I was able to locate an online version and also a version in the public library, see this thread Repair manual needed, I think .

R.
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Old 01-23-2021, 08:42 PM   #9
RMcG
 
Drives: 2008 Yaris Hatchback
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 199
I am going to mark this thread and two others that are related as tentatively SOLVED, although I seem to have forgotten how to mark a thread as SOLVED. Thanks to everybody who replied to this query and in the two related threads.

I managed to get the back seat bench (lower part) out and to remove the black metal brace it is attached to. I used a hex simple ratchet wrench with an attachment for a hex nut and I also used the ratchet wrench with an E10 Torx attachment. These bolts were tight, but I hit the end of the ratchet wrench handle lightly and they loosened up.

I was quite concerned about stripping the bolts as I had been warned by another poster. So I tried to be careful not to be too aggressive. I only attempted to unloosen these bolts after putting PB Blaster penetrating oil on them and tapping the bolts lightly with a hammer multiple times over several days as suggested by one of the other posters.

I also bought a manual impact driver with an E10 Torx impact socket wrench attachment and an impact adapter to allow the E10 Torx socket to be attached to the manual impact driver. These three were obtained from Harbor Freight Tools, parts number 64812, 67898 and 61991. Total cost about $25. I used this setup on one of the Torx bolts, but I am not sure it helped to loosen the bolt or not. I think it takes some experience to use one of these manual impact drivers, but I think they are great tools for some people and cheaper than a battery operated impact wrench. See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXWiS8sDZX8 and see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKZqNcn3Cvc . As I said, I think it takes some experience to use this tool; it seems that using a large hammer and tapping slowly (to achieve displacement) is better than using a small hammer and hitting it mightily. I think this may be because you need some displacement of the handle "downward" towards the bit head, because the tool is spring loaded.

The rear carpet is up and the underlying pads are out and have been in the oven at a temperature of about 125 degrees Fahrenheit drying. And I am putting old towels and newspapers under the rear carpet to dry it out. My plan at this point is to reinforce the black weather stripping on the roof by running a bead of silicone rubber cement along either side of the strips; and I am going to use 3M Window Weld Ribbon Sealer 3/8" x 15 ' to reinforce the tail light gaskets; and I will use windshield (British "windscreen") sealant to seal cracks in welds between metal pieces and also perhaps the rear hatch gasket. These strategies are advised in two related posts.

More info is in these related posts: Repair manual needed, I think and Advice about leak, water in spare tire well.

I'll try to include some pictures later.

Thanks again to everybody,

R.

Last edited by RMcG; 01-24-2021 at 01:42 AM. Reason: typos and clarity
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