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#1 |
Yaris beginner
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1NR-FE Valve Cover Gasket replacement
Hi all,
My 1NR-FE engine is leaking from the top and I'd like to replace the valve cover gasket. I have the gasket already, and I started trying to do the job but honestly the electric cable harness on top of the engine is slightly more complex to remove than I expected... If anyone could provide some help, maybe a short video, pointing to the best option/way to remove the electric cable harness just enough to make the replacement of the gasket an "easy" job, would be very much appreciated! Thank you. |
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#2 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Yaris Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 12
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Harness shouldn't be difficult, helpful tip is to mark with tape and label with numbers to match connector to connector so you know where they plug into.
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,785
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Never did it and I can’t give you any advice except to try searching YouTube. YouTube is your friend!
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
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#4 | |
Yaris beginner
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Quote:
I did search extensively of course. The best I could find was this time lapse - https://youtu.be/N-ei0lnXqEU?t=238 Which, at the time that I pointed to in the link, seems to indicate the connections to the alternator are last to assemble (which would mean first to disassemble), and I think this would be enough to get the valve cover off... but to do this I think I would have to at least get the car on ramps to unplug the harness from below. A real piece of work compared to other models I have found on youtube!! |
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#5 |
Yaris beginner
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#6 |
Yaris beginner
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In the meantime, I found this electric diagram of the 1NR-FE. Seems I need to disconnect all these connectors here and hopefully I'll be good to go. But like I mentioned, most likely I need to get the car on ramps, take out the splash guard and get to these connectors from below...
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#7 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,785
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Quote:
![]() This is progress? ![]()
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
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#8 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 5dr canadian import Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: pacific north WET
Posts: 955
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unbolt the harness and dissconnect it then "roll" it out of the way, youll have to dissconnect all the way down to the ac/alt to get the movement you need
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#9 |
Yaris beginner
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When I searched for "Yaris valve cover gasket replacement", the procedure was quite simple on most of the videos I found. The 1NR-FE engine seems to be the exception, where we need to unbolt like a "gazillion" things that are in the way...
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#10 | |
Yaris beginner
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Quote:
And on the right side, better to disconnect as well lamba sensor, etc? Or is this one not necessary? |
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#11 |
Yaris beginner
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Here's the video I promised explaining my troubles - https://youtu.be/FpdDaJjtgMU
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#12 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,785
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Jesus H Christ! What engine is that a 1.3 L engine? Or is it a 1 L engine? That’s crazy complicated just to get the valve cover off! If you have ramps getting under the car should not be a problem.
Good luck and tell us what happens!
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Synthetic Oil: Its All In Your Head |
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#13 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2007 5dr canadian import Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: pacific north WET
Posts: 955
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on the 1.5, looking at it from the front, only the BELT side stuff needs to come off, the battery side stuff can remain
i was in there a couple months back..and didnt touch anything on the starter side..also getting under the car is NOT a requirement, the only tricky bit is the crank pot plug and bolt which can be accessed with the car on the ground and the wheel turned |
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#14 | |
Yaris beginner
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Quote:
Here's a video update - https://youtu.be/uCt6MjUIQRo I think now I have just enough clearance to get the cover out... only problem now is having a family, but I hope I can continue later today. I'd like to have this car running by Monday... let's see. |
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#15 |
Yaris beginner
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Ok guys, finally it's done. I hated pretty much every part of it.
Like discussed, there was enough room when unclipping/unbolting the electrical wiring that runs down the alternator - BARELY. It was nerve-wrecking to slide the cover out like this... but 10 times worse it was to slide the cover back in, with the new gasket, afraid that the sliding could peel the gasket off the cover. It was a 2 man job, for sure. A buddy of mine was pulling on the electrical cabling harness while I was trying to slide the cover back in. The PCV valve also got in the way, but I didn't want to try to remove it as it was new and stuck in there pretty good... After sliding the cover back in I was "feeling" the gasket blindly with my hands beneath the cover to try and make sure everything was still in place correctly and it felt good, so we just went for it. All cover bolts were torqued to 10NM. After turning the engine on, there was an already known to me low RPM and vibration, but I plugged my OBD2 scanner and there were no engine codes and all values that I can understand were looking good to me... fuel trims were even at 0%, both long and short term!! Here's a short "reel" I made of the ordeal... https://youtu.be/Kko0YM2d49Y But it's really not something I feel like I would do again... Oh, and by the way, shortly after turning the engine on there was some smoke coming from under the exhaust manifold heat shiled. Both my buddy and I agreed that it was probably some oil that dripped onto it. I put in like 10 kms today and the car is running like before. Hopefully the slight oil leak will go away. Side-note - I was quite pleased with the shape of the engine's interior! For a 12 year old machine, it's not looking too bad! Cheers and thanks for all your help! Next stop, fuel filter change. Last edited by Lars; 05-21-2023 at 05:59 PM. |
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#16 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,785
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Congratulations for changing the valve cover gasket. If you do 10 of them it will be for like falling off a log!
Why are you changing the fuel filter? Just because you think it’s a good idea? My wife 2005 Camry has never had its fuel filter changed. It just hit 200,000 miles. It will never have a fuel filter changed only if something goes wrong. That’s pretty much universal agreement. I don’t think they make a separate fuel filter for these cars. You only get a filter when you buy a new pump. But at least it would be easier than a valve cover gasket!
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#17 | ||
Yaris beginner
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Quote:
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#18 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2009 Base Hatch 2 Dr Auto Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: nj
Posts: 4,785
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If you can obtain a filter I guess it makes sense to change it. But most of us will tell you it is it won’t be necessary..
Ah The spark plugs! Again my wife’s 2005 Camry this time when it had 150,000 miles. I think they’re supposed to be changed every 100,000 miles. But since the car ran perfectly I put it off until 150. I spent $40 for four new super Duper spark plugs. When I took them out they looked perfectly fine. I can’t remember what the gap was and you’re not supposed to adjust the gaps on these plugs But if money was tight, I would’ve put them right back in! I put the new plugs in and put the old ones on a 2 x 4 beam in the shelf in the garden shed.. In case I ever need them! I have seen these kinds of plugs iridium plugs with 15,000 miles and the electrode was broken and the motor was running like crap. One more thing. The accessory belt also had 150,000 miles on it when it was changed. I couldn’t do it my brother In law is a freelance BMW mechanic he did it. But you can buy a gate belt gauge or rather you can get one for free. I checked the old belt and it speced out new! It’s hanging on my closet door in the bedroom in case I ever need it.
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