Team Tiamat Racing's 2014 LSR Season Build

[Jason@SportsCar]

Originally Posted by fnkngrv

Because the ECU needs the most accurate reading not some additional gauge that has nothing to do with the way engine runs. If I weren't going to be doing what I am doing then I wouldn't worry about it, but I push the engine very hard and fast so this is how I want it to be.

As for the sandwich adapter I will be selling mine. I spoke above how I will be moving the oil pressure sending unit even off the T. I prefer not to run sandwich adapters. Case in point that my jack was run over during the winter and I had to change the oil about 6 weeks back. I had no choice but to take the car to a shop. I told them that the sandwich adapter was there yet they still somehow ended up loosening it and then it caused a leak after the oil change plus the tech damaged my sending unit in the process. Not worth the trouble if I end up in a bind.

A simple plug-in OBD2 device will give you that temp reading (and more) without even getting your hands dirty. Seems pointless to have a secondary temp gauge that is not providing you the correct data.
http://shop.microimageonline.com/ScanGauge-II-SGII.htm

[ilikerice]

I compelely agree. I am just trying to get different idea's on how to set mine up. I would like to run Coolant temp gauge off my oem sensor. But then I wasn't sure if that would screw up the signal to the ecu. Also, something was brought to my attention, that it depends on the gauge I got, what signal (volts) does my gauge need? The oem signal could be different that the signal that my gauge requires to work properly. One of those things that I am unsure of.

Thats the reasoning for my questions about the gauges you are running. I didn't mean to stir any conflict with that. just seeing all my options.

[xnamerxx]

Most sensors are resistance type.

[fnkngrv]

Been a at standstill waiting on parts, but a few more came.

AEM 320lph Fuel Pump:





Earls performance inline fuel filter:





Picked up a single section of Pypes pipe that will give us all the bends we need for the new downpipe. Actually saved me close to 80 bucks this way:





DEI Titanium exhaust wrap:





Now we are just waiting on the 3 silicone couplers, 3" V - band flange clamp, and 3" to 2.5" pipe coupler.

sent from my m-o-b-i-l-e

[fnkngrv]

Oh yes, before I forget. Borg Warner doesn't actually tell you that the oil line flange fitting on the 6758 EFR turbo is a T15 40mm fitting so we had to order one of these which we installed today:

Billet Aluminum Turbo Oil Return Flange Kit w/ -10 AN Flare For Garrett GT15 GT17 GT20



sent from my m-o-b-i-l-e

[fnkngrv]

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

A simple plug-in OBD2 device will give you that temp reading (and more) without even getting your hands dirty. Seems pointless to have a secondary temp gauge that is not providing you the correct data.
http://shop.microimageonline.com/ScanGauge-II-SGII.htm

Appreciate the input and idea Jason, but I personally will have my hands full paying attention to everything that I have to as it is and controlling the car at 150+ mph. Just for grins when we do the tune and dynamic pulls I will see about what the factory sensor is delivering for numbers compared to the gauge with its sensor in the new location. When I do I will report back with the results.

sent from my m-o-b-i-l-e

[fnkngrv]

Originally Posted by ilikerice

OMG SCOTT,
you're Brilliant..

but what adaptor would be best to use on those hoses? Just "T" one of them off and add a sensor at the end of one of them?

If you are running a turbo you would most likely actually be using these lines for cooling of it. I don't even have mine linked to the TB. The nipples on it are plugged.

sent from my m-o-b-i-l-e

[fnkngrv]

I have started a contest to Guess That Tune in my vendor's section over at TuneMyToyota.com!

GUESS THAT TUNE!

[fnkngrv]

New downpipe has been completed and installed. Removed both of the factory O2 sensors since they are no longer referenced as of last fall anyway.









New JRT Customs fabricated oil catch can assembly ready to do some helpful work hopefully.





Also we decided to do some wire tucking for the coil pack harness to keep down rubbing issues and clean up the installation to really make the valve cover pop.

[fnkngrv]

Well we have a heartbeat! Here is a quick video of the first start up. We of course need to get the idle set and the intercooler hasn't been installed yet, but here it is:

TTR 2014 Build First Start after install

[kou]

looking and sounding good.

[fnkngrv]

Originally Posted by kou

looking and sounding good.

Thanks!


Holy hell the new setup is going to rip. We took the car out today for the first time to get my basic tune adjusted from the previous engine to be sure that I would make it down to NH safe and sound in a couple days.

The engine bay sounds totally different and the turbo sounds like a jet plane flying over and that is at the mere 9psi of boost.

[fnkngrv]

Almost forgot. The DEI heatshield arrived and we did install yesterday. It has replaced the anemic OEM insulation which incidentally practically disintegrated in our hands after 4 years of turbo use and that is with ceramic coating of the exhaust housing and heat wrap. Even though the new housing is ceramic coated and does have a lava blanket with the close proximity of the turbo to the firewall we can't be too careful.

[fnkngrv]

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

Maybe I missed it, but why are you not sourcing the water temp from the factory sensor in the head? That is where I pull mine from. Then I use the MI sandwich adapter for oil temp and pressure. Easy.

Originally Posted by xnamerxx

Not to pick nits or anything, but wouldn't you want to source the temp data from the head and not from a coolant hose? Since there is already a boss for the temp sensor it seems like a no brainer.

In the crapcan enduro car we decided against the hose sensor because it was just another avenue for failure and the temp data wasn't going to be good enough if there was a leak or some other failure.

Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar

A simple plug-in OBD2 device will give you that temp reading (and more) without even getting your hands dirty. Seems pointless to have a secondary temp gauge that is not providing you the correct data.
http://shop.microimageonline.com/ScanGauge-II-SGII.htm

During the close to 20 miles of first driving yesterday we monitored the factory temp readings and then also on the gauge with the new location for it on the outbound hose from the engine simultaneously. The temps were within 1-3 degrees from the data that we logged. This included running at the current set 9psi of boost, hard launches, regular road travel, hill climbs, etc. I am running 100% AMSOIL Glycol Coolant along with the Mishimoto Liquid Chill Radiator Coolant Additive. I will continue of course to monitor via datalogging on the drive down to NH on Thursday and then back up with the new boost level (whatever that will be).

[fnkngrv]

We adjusted the cruising tune today. Ambient Temp was 76°. 40+ miles of in town, stop n go, hills, open expanse, etc. Temps were between 195-203° per the EMS. IAT's hung around 88-92°. Autometer temp gauge with sensor location upper hose right off head were within 2°.


Having the non boost fuel set between 13.6-16.2 AFR at general driving speeds is nice to be at again. I am driving to NJ today so will report mpg with minor periods in boost. I was avg 20.8mpg.

sent from my m-o-b-i-l-e

[fnkngrv]

Almost forgot. We did a few WOT passed up to 140mph or so. ID1000s are currently hitting 38% duty cycle with street tune which is conservative.

sent from my m-o-b-i-l-e

[fnkngrv]

Lookin like will be getting 28-30mpg. I am ok with that.

sent from my m-o-b-i-l-e

[kou]

We could have had a mini turbo meet while you were in NJ. Maybe if you every come down this way again. Can't wait to get my motor built in the next few months. What clutch are you using?