full stealth build - Toyota Yaris Forums

Zedicus · 07-01-2020, 09:44 AM

so after my alpine unit had a bad USB port i ended up doing a full custom install. i know head units with tacoma and carolla of various years all have the same physical size. and toyota pretty mush uses the same wiring on all their radios from like the late 1990s to now. so here are a couple pictures and some words to go with them.

navi head unit. this is a dealer option unit from the 2nd gen 2nd refresh model. it has options for backup camera, video aux, and other things. all i added was wiring for an amp, front USB, and the GPS antenna (in the dash on a custom bracket, reception is acceptable.)

the front dash USB port that i added ends up not being a great location. if the storage door is opened it hits anything that is plugged in. the the stock cigarette lighter outlet has a 2 port usb charger in it.

the head unit has a front panel aux port under one of the covers and the new head unit supports Bluetooth, so i pulled out the lower aux port and put an aftermarket full time 2 port charger set in there. this is direct connect to the battery via fused 12 gauge wire. overkill but that is the best type of kill. and i DID want to be able to charge stuff while the car is not running, even a 3 amp nintendo switch would not be able to run down a car battery in any normal amount of time from being left plugged in.

i forget to get a amp shot. it is under the passenger seat with 4 gauge power wire. fused at the battery. this runs into the cabin at the bulk head where the main harness comes through the firewall. it travels under the dash and too the door jam molding, the trigger wire and sub out RCAs takes a similar path from the head unit. a notch was made in the door jam molding at the rear of the passenger seat for the power cables to come out. the amp ground cable is wrapped around the front of one of the seat bolts and i used a weld on copper terminal here filled with lead and mounted it under the seat bolt. (seat bolt and inner mount where wire wheeled clean to make sure a good body connection for ground was made.) the subwoofer connection is 12 gauge copper wire runs back under the door jam trims and is well hidden, comes out in the storage area and plugs into a store bought box (i was in a hurry.) the amp and sub are all professional audio equipment i had left over from when i used to do installs. the amp is MMATS and was rebuilt about 2 years ago, the sub is MMATS also and was rebuilt about 6 years ago and stored after rebuild. (pro equipment is rebuildable, not disposable like a lot of the garbage 'audio shops' sell now)

i will add amp, and engine bay wiring shots tonight. i have always been big on making stereo installs sound amazing and look like they belong in the vehicle. i made a business out of fixing 'audio shop' installs for a long time. until kids and day job meant i no longer had time.

couple more pic

07-01-2020, 09:44 AM	#1
Zedicus Drives: scion xb Join Date: Apr 2020 Location: SW KS Posts: 26	full stealth build so after my alpine unit had a bad USB port i ended up doing a full custom install. i know head units with tacoma and carolla of various years all have the same physical size. and toyota pretty mush uses the same wiring on all their radios from like the late 1990s to now. so here are a couple pictures and some words to go with them. navi head unit. this is a dealer option unit from the 2nd gen 2nd refresh model. it has options for backup camera, video aux, and other things. all i added was wiring for an amp, front USB, and the GPS antenna (in the dash on a custom bracket, reception is acceptable.) the front dash USB port that i added ends up not being a great location. if the storage door is opened it hits anything that is plugged in. the the stock cigarette lighter outlet has a 2 port usb charger in it. the head unit has a front panel aux port under one of the covers and the new head unit supports Bluetooth, so i pulled out the lower aux port and put an aftermarket full time 2 port charger set in there. this is direct connect to the battery via fused 12 gauge wire. overkill but that is the best type of kill. and i DID want to be able to charge stuff while the car is not running, even a 3 amp nintendo switch would not be able to run down a car battery in any normal amount of time from being left plugged in. i forget to get a amp shot. it is under the passenger seat with 4 gauge power wire. fused at the battery. this runs into the cabin at the bulk head where the main harness comes through the firewall. it travels under the dash and too the door jam molding, the trigger wire and sub out RCAs takes a similar path from the head unit. a notch was made in the door jam molding at the rear of the passenger seat for the power cables to come out. the amp ground cable is wrapped around the front of one of the seat bolts and i used a weld on copper terminal here filled with lead and mounted it under the seat bolt. (seat bolt and inner mount where wire wheeled clean to make sure a good body connection for ground was made.) the subwoofer connection is 12 gauge copper wire runs back under the door jam trims and is well hidden, comes out in the storage area and plugs into a store bought box (i was in a hurry.) the amp and sub are all professional audio equipment i had left over from when i used to do installs. the amp is MMATS and was rebuilt about 2 years ago, the sub is MMATS also and was rebuilt about 6 years ago and stored after rebuild. (pro equipment is rebuildable, not disposable like a lot of the garbage 'audio shops' sell now) i will add amp, and engine bay wiring shots tonight. i have always been big on making stereo installs sound amazing and look like they belong in the vehicle. i made a business out of fixing 'audio shop' installs for a long time. until kids and day job meant i no longer had time. couple more pic Last edited by Zedicus; 07-02-2020 at 08:58 AM.