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Old 04-14-2007, 07:22 AM   #19
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engine: very small roughness on metal surface, will whip off in the first 1-2 hundred miles

oxygen sensor (sets the fuel/air mixture, therefore affects acceleration and fuel consumption): when new, it needs to get "burned" in order to operate to the specs. The hotter it gets, the faster it burns. I'd suggest, passing the first hundred miles, start shifting/keeping the revs higher than usually (above 4000rpm) and drive so 2-3 gas tanks.

don't switch to synthetics before 1000 miles, a new engine needs to run on mineral oil
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Old 04-14-2007, 10:29 AM   #20
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Hey guys, this is just a theoretical situation. Its not like I did it or anything.

But what if someone got their car with say, less than 15 miles on it. drove it slowly home for 15 miles.

Then drove a 100 mile road trip in going some 110-120 the whole way, just because it was the first time he/she could. What kind of problems might he/she need to go get checked for at the shop?
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Old 04-14-2007, 12:09 PM   #21
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My Yaris is my 5th new car. I've broken in all my cars by driving them hard straight off the lot. My Yaris has 115 hard km's on it, WOT to redline in every gear. The reason I do this is because cars that go thru a hard break in period will be more powerful than a "normal" break in. All 3 of my SLK's were broken in this way, and was faster than the others at track days. I've never had any problems with engine reliability either.
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Old 04-14-2007, 04:45 PM   #22
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well, I agree for the first few thousand miles you should baby it and vary the RPM range, most of the breaking in is done at the factory these days, but you can never be to carefull...also, if you plan on shifting at higher rpms and flogging your car, keep in mind part of the break in process is seating the valves, and if the valves seat for the 3k-5k range and you constantly shift your yaris at 6k, its harder on the valvetrain and you wont get as much performance from the engine. I have not verified that on a newer car, but thats how they break in older muscle cars...I think the best way is to drive the car how you intend to drive it, but avoiding keeping it at the same RPM range for long trips (switching from 4th to 5th every now and then to vary the rpms).
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Old 04-14-2007, 10:05 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMGYaris View Post
Hey guys, this is just a theoretical situation. Its not like I did it or anything.

But what if someone got their car with say, less than 15 miles on it. drove it slowly home for 15 miles.

Then drove a 100 mile road trip in going some 110-120 the whole way, just because it was the first time he/she could. What kind of problems might he/she need to go get checked for at the shop?
an engine is an engine. sure, they say baby it the first hundred miles, try doing city driving instead of highway... at one point it helps, but how much ? statistically saying, maybe that engine would run 2% better that others...

if that is not a matter, drive it as you like from the very first mile. it's my advice as a mechanical engineer, two things seems to be important: use mineral oil for the first thousands miles and never rev high a cold engine.

rage2: what you are saying is all about the oxygen sensor, the hotter it gets the faster it starts work at his normal range
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Old 04-15-2007, 11:15 AM   #24
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I really never gave the car a break-in since they come already tested from the factory. I just droved it hard a couple of times. I just think my engine came with the expected 106hp since we know hp factory numbers are estimated.
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Old 04-15-2007, 01:28 PM   #25
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i drive it like i stole it, hehehe
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Old 04-15-2007, 01:32 PM   #26
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rage2: what you are saying is all about the oxygen sensor, the hotter it gets the faster it starts work at his normal range
No, I'm not talking about a cold engine vs a warm engine, I'm talking about 2 identical engines, one broken in "easy", and one broken in "hard", or drive it like you stole it. The engine broken in hard will be more powerful.
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Old 04-15-2007, 01:38 PM   #27
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i drive it like i stole it, hehehe


I peeled out of the lot when I bought it if that tells you anything. Couldn't help it! My dealership loves me anyway.
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Old 04-15-2007, 06:16 PM   #28
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Old 04-15-2007, 07:02 PM   #29
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I worried about the break in period as well. I drove mine as prescribed in the manual, varying speeds for the first 1,000 miles. I changed to Mobil 1 at 2,000 and follow factory intervals of 5,000. Now at nearly 15,000 miles, I've never burned any oil and get great gas mileage.
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Old 04-16-2007, 03:38 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rage2 View Post
My Yaris is my 5th new car. I've broken in all my cars by driving them hard straight off the lot. My Yaris has 115 hard km's on it, WOT to redline in every gear. The reason I do this is because cars that go thru a hard break in period will be more powerful than a "normal" break in. All 3 of my SLK's were broken in this way, and was faster than the others at track days. I've never had any problems with engine reliability either.
ive been doing the same thing as well. my del sol was quicker then most and im hoping the yaris will be broken in just as good......
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Old 04-16-2007, 06:04 PM   #31
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ive been doing the same thing as well. my del sol was quicker then most and im hoping the yaris will be broken in just as good......
yep, it's a nice little secret that some of us solo1 and solo2 guys use when buying a new car for the track.

The only time I run a easy break-in procedure on a car is when I'm building a new motor from scratch, for about 100km, to ensure the rings and walls are contacting smoothly. After that is an oil flush, then hard break-in!
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Old 04-16-2007, 06:17 PM   #32
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Quote:
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i drive it like i stole it, hehehe
When I test drove a yaris it only had like 30 miles (I went home with it that night) I left the lot and waited till I came to the first stop and then let her loose, I chirped the tired shifting into second and beat the hell out of the car for about 15 minutes. Currently have 11,000 miles on car and no problems.
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Old 04-24-2007, 10:11 PM   #33
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I broke mine in with a combination of long highway trips and red line WOT shifting in between. Currently have just over 3200 miles and the oil level hasn't ever gone down a drop, which indicates rings are well seated and the break in was a success :) I think people (myself included) stress needlessly about the break in. Just think how many cars are out there that people buy new and aren't even aware of the term "break in" and drive their cars for hundreds of thousands of miles.
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Old 04-30-2007, 01:58 PM   #34
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don't switch to synthetics before 1000 miles, a new engine needs to run on mineral oil
Well, why then do some new cars come from the factory with Mobil 1 synthetic in them? I don't think that statement is accurate at all.
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Old 06-08-2007, 01:06 AM   #35
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honestly with such low horespower i didnt even consider going easy on it...plus with a nice warrenty how can you go wrong ? we never keep our vehicles past 30k tops...so none the worry.. i got my titan with 7 miles on it and i go WOT everytime...my tires dont like it but theyve gotta earn their keep lol that also helps out my 10mpg average haha
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Old 09-08-2007, 11:08 PM   #36
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I peeled out of the lot when I bought it if that tells you anything. Couldn't help it!.
Now thats funny!
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