Wrong fuel filter...

[Lars]

Originally Posted by bronsin

If you can obtain a filter I guess it makes sense to change it. But most of us will tell you it is it won’t be necessary..

I should have listened to you, bud...

I went through all the hassle of removing the fuel pump assembly, the risk of breaking it, the possibility of having created a fuel leak, just to find out I have the wrong filter...



I searched and couldn't really find the correct filter. Seems like the only/best option would be to order the corresponding fuel pump. Since the purpose of replacing the filter would be to prolong the life of the fuel pump, that totally defeats the purpose of this job.

What a s***show. Oh well, I'll just leave the car alone since it's running fine, and just keep changing the oil and oil filter... oh, and the rear drum brakes are falling apart so I guess at least that, I should do.

Cheers,
Bruno

[bronsin]

Wow! Well keep trying to find the filter. How did the old one look?

Yeah everybody wants to change the transmission oil even automatic transmission oil, they want to use synthetic oil for the engine, They want to change the oil in the power Steering, I want to change the spark plugs every 50,000 miles And all kinds of things like that. Oh and they say don’t use frame oil filters..

And why not! It makes them feel better, and it might do some good, and if I didn’t have Parkinson’s I might do it myself!

But in my humble opinion conventional motor oil will work just as good as synthetic, Fram filters are as good as any you can buy, your transmission isn’t gonna last any longer if you change the oil, except for maybe a manual transmission go Ahead and change that every 30,000 miles, Unless you’ve got a problem with the way your engine is running Spark plugs are good for 150,000 miles, you don’t need to change the fuel filter on your electric fuel pump, but if it’s easy and doesn’t cost anything why not? But if it’s a pain in the ass you don’t have to do it. And probably your car has electric power steering so you don’t have to worry about changing your oil in that.

But the only thing is Toyota isn’t making the intake manifold only fuel injection system anymore. It’s got that and direct injection and all the new models. My 2020 Corolla I think is the last one with manifold only injection.

And here’s the deal! The direct injection engines have to have a vacuum pump for whatever needs vacuum like the brakes! And THAT you have to change every hundred thousand miles!

The new Toyota corolla engines are 2 L and direct injection with manifold injection and they got that vacuum pump every100 thousand miles you have to change. My 1.8 L engine will get 50 miles per gallon in the summer on the highway if you go 60.

Life is good!

[sh0rtlife]

what years your 1.8 rolla....i can only imagine that same 1.8 in a MUCH lighter yaris is going to exceed those numbers!

most ppl have to remember that "new" cars(anything built after the mid/late 90s) was ment to be disposable and not genuinely taken care of or repaired and thus..you get alot of "unit" only parts like the fuel filter and pump, but also you get much longer life products too

plugs should be inspected at 50k but not always replaced, auto trans fluid should be checked but again..never replaced unless it has "the smell"

i will say 1 thing on dyno vs synth...someone who does "short hop" driving will benifit from a cleaner engine on synth, and anyone neglectful of oilchanges will also benift from synth...outside of that oils oil

[bronsin]

It’s a 2020 corolla with a 1.8 L engine. 2023 carollos have the 2 L engine high output. If you want the most horsepower see if a 2 L will drop in.

[sh0rtlife]

Originally Posted by bronsin

It’s a 2020 corolla with a 1.8 L engine. 2023 carollos have the 2 L engine high output. If you want the most horsepower see if a 2 L will drop in.

honestly im looking at both eco and hp..
as i know full well they often go hand in hand...
an engine that CAN pull harder doesnt have to work as hard to move the car nor does it have to work neerly as hard to get the car going from a stop
the real change with bigger is fuel per min at idle....more often than not under load you can go a good bit bigger before you hit diminishing returns

ive done alot of experiments with v8s all in the same car and found that 1-1.5 liter (anything up to 100CID)or so could net anything up to 3mpg gains under all uses but stayed the same below 25mph ..hard launches wa sthe other place where MPG was found as you needed less input for MORE output....i also played alot with gear ratios and again found the same results, you could gear the bigger engine to get even more at any given spot....

basicly the rule i found was you need to match the :engine size and torque band to the weight, drive style, and gearing....tho gearing was much less of a concern if the car got lighter or more aerodynamic

the only reason they stuff ultra tiny engines in alot of the little cars is to fill the "niche" of emissions in x country...look at the rolla..prime example, .3 bigger engine getting BETTER mpg than a yaris at more than 1000lbs heavier and not really any better aero getting considerably better mpg

i wonder if a 2020 is the same as the early teens

[bronsin]

And early teens Corolla would probably have a cartridge oil filter. The 2020 model has a spinner.

[mirageman]

I have a thread here somewhere about this. I took mine out some months ago and even though I have well above 200k miles, I was able to blow right through my filter. Back in it went. There is an aftermarket "herko" brand filter alone for like 40 bucks on ebay, but I don't know if I would change it for a no name brand. I kept asking them to tell me about the filter media, where it was made etc. and they just kept not answering.