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03-12-2021, 07:38 PM | #19 |
Drives: 08 Yaris 3 Door Hatchback Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: ‘Murica!
Posts: 446
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Went to a pick and pull today, and found a 2007 Yaris Sedan. I pulled the evap canister and pump, but I still have the P043E & F faults. Not sure if the canister and pump I got are also faulty. I can’t put my old one, cause the mounting bolts broke in the housing. Sigh... there’s a 30 day warrantee for the canister and pump that I pulled, I might go back and exchange it for another that’s newer model. The other faults I think is an electrical issue. I wonder where their common points are? I think I’m giving up and gonna ask a pro for help.
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03-13-2021, 02:37 PM | #20 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3 door Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 403
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sounds like a big mess, if you have skills to drill, you need to drill out the broken bolts and get the correct tap to clean the threads, i belive theyre 6x1.00, use a little anti seize when putting new bolts in, you also need to get a shop or the dealer to smoke test it for evap leaks, thats the easiest thing to do and go from there
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03-14-2021, 03:13 AM | #21 | |
Drives: 08 Yaris 3 Door Hatchback Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: ‘Murica!
Posts: 446
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Quote:
I wouldn’t have removed the brackets from the one I pulled from the junkyard if they didn’t charge for the brackets as well. I already bought new bolts for the canister that I got from the junkyard and yes, I put anti seize, I pretty much put it on almost everything. I’ll learn to keep the bolts from the junkyard next time. One of the weld nut, that secures the canister underneath, also broke off from inside the spare tire compartment. Sigh... Luckily it’s one of the two on the driver side. I bought a replacement nut and bolt, but didn’t bother putting it in yet, as I’ll be returning the canister for a replacement. I’m going to another LKQ, 45 min away, hopefully they have a better inventory. I called in and made sure I can return the part even if it’s from another one of their site. Hopefully I find a Corolla or Matrix with rear disc brakes while I’m there. And of course an evap canister and pump that’s in better shape. What did you mean by smoke test? The whole car’s evap system or just the canister I pulled? |
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03-14-2021, 03:43 AM | #22 |
Drives: 06 2ZR Turbo Yaris RS Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Fredericton, New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 2,384
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Have you put a voltmeter on your alternator? With all those codes, I'm wondering if you're having voltage delivery problems. Of course, you're not having drivability problems, so maybe not.
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2006 Yaris 5 Door RS 2ZR-FE (2011 Corolla 1.8L) Swapped, Automatic, T-28 Turbocharged (8 psi), HSD MonoPro Coilovers, DIY W/M Injection, custom 3" cold air intake, custom 2.5" exhaust, TRD rear sway bar, Penguin Garage 13mm spacers (rear), custom Civic front lip, full repaint, Android 6.0 7" touchscreen, Rockford Fosgate speakers, tweeters, NVX underseat subwoofer https://www.instagram.com/2zr_turbo_yarisrs/ |
03-14-2021, 10:32 PM | #23 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3 door Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 403
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a smoke test will determine and pin point any evap sustem leaks, what you do is pinch off your rear vent by the gas tank and put the smoke tester straight into the evap system and you will see if theres smoke coming somewhere, is your car rusty? sounds like you have a lot of rust with all the bolts that are breaking. i would give your car a wd 40 bath before touching another fastener on that thing
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03-14-2021, 11:01 PM | #24 |
Drives: 08 Yaris 3 Door Hatchback Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: ‘Murica!
Posts: 446
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Actually, I didn't... That's why I thought maybe my belt was slipping a bit. It passed the voltage test when I used the ODBII reader. I'll check right now.
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03-14-2021, 11:06 PM | #25 | |
Drives: 08 Yaris 3 Door Hatchback Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: ‘Murica!
Posts: 446
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Quote:
I'll test my alternator first, like Adam said, if that's fine then I think I'm done messing with her and just head to the shop. Could it still be possible that my evap is fine and it's just faulting out because of electrical issues? |
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03-14-2021, 11:23 PM | #26 |
Drives: 08 Yaris 3 Door Hatchback Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: ‘Murica!
Posts: 446
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Ok, so I let her warm up to idle, took the negative cable off the battery, and read the alternator to ground, and she's making +14VDC. So that's not it...
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03-15-2021, 05:32 PM | #27 |
Drives: 2007 Toyota Yaris 3 door Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Arizona
Posts: 403
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off to the shops then...
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03-16-2021, 08:56 PM | #28 |
Drives: 08 Yaris 3 Door Hatchback Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: ‘Murica!
Posts: 446
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03-12-2022, 08:00 PM | #29 |
Drives: 08 Yaris 3 Door Hatchback Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: ‘Murica!
Posts: 446
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Fixed!!!
My apologies it took me forever to reply back. First thing's first, the ODB2 reader that my cousin had, which what I was using when I was back in San Diego was faulty. I ended up troubleshooting the false fault that it was showing, which lead to replacement of parts that didn't needed to be replaced and ended up causing an actual fault. When I got to Maryland, I used my friend's tablet type ODB2 reader and showed the actual fault.
Anyway, I actually fixed this issue a long time ago, back in August when I finally moved back to Maryland. It was the vapor purge solenoid under the hood that was causing the problem. I didn't think it was bad, because I already replaced it when I was chasing the problem. But apparently the one I bought from Auto Zone was intermittently bad, which I paid full price for, I don't even know how much it was, I think around $70. I bought one from eBay for $12 and voila!!! And no CEL ever since. |
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