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Old 04-26-2018, 02:48 PM   #1
tmontague's Avatar
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,928
TRD Delrin Rear Axle Bushing Collars

Alright, I finally got these bad boys installed and I figured I'd throw up a diy for the install since not many YW members has ever installed these. The original opinion was that the rear axle had to be dropped to install these which meant disconnecting e brake lines, abs wires and hydraulic brake lines.

Turns out you do not need to drop the rear axle or disconnect any lines to do this install if you are careful. I have not had enough seat time to comment on how these perform and I have changed many things in my cars suspension around this time so it will be tough to be objective about these. After some more seat time I'll post a review but so far there are no additional noises coming from the rear end.

Collars and part numbers posted in the pic below. part #xxx 900 is the inner collar, xxx910 is the outer one, there is a slight difference in shape so this does matter.

You will need at least 1 set of jack stands and a decent size jack.

So the install is straight forwards for the most part and is as follows:
-Lift the rear end of the car up on jack stands at a decent height. Have the stand support the car from the rear pinch welds.

-loosen one and remove the other 10 or 12mm bolt on each side of the car for the small bracket that mounts to the body of the car under the axle bushing. With these bolts loosened/remove you can swing it out of the way of the axle bushing. Picture below is of it swung out of the way

-Place large jack under the middle of the axle cross beam.

pic is of the axle supported by a jack, I also have jack stands under the show mounting points just in case the axle tilted back too far:

-remove lower shock bolt to release shock from axle and use a pry bar to pop out rear springs. The axle should now rest on the jack.

-remove the 17mm(?) through bolt on each side of the axle that goes through the bushing and holds the axle to the body of the car.

-slightly lower the axle using the jack as low as you can without putting any strain on the brake lines or ABS electrical line.

-get under the car and place you hand on top of one of the axle bushings and use your weight to tilt the axle forward and down allowing access to either side of the bushing. *before you do this, you will have to pull the axle slightly out and away from the body of the car so that it is free to tilt forward*

-Add a rubber safe grease to you inner cups of the bushing collars and place them on the appropriate side of the bushing. Press them in as firm as you can, but realise that you will not be able to get them flush all the way.

pic is of the grease applied to inside of bushing. I did this to avoid potential squeaks:

- take your hand/weight off of the top of the axle and let it pop back up into its mounting place. This will naturally push the collars into place into the bushing.

- Do the same thing on the other side *do not push down the axle too far, only just far enough the clear the body mount to access both side of the bushing to fit the collars one. Going too far you can break the ABS sensor, or you can remove the 10mm bolt on the sensor wire tie down to give yourself more clearance.

Pic is of the axle pushed down for access:

If you look at the OEM bushings they are designed to allow quite a bit of vertical twisting so that the axle can rotate during suspension compression. However to achieve this, there has to be a considerable amount of a void in the bushing which unfortunately allows horizontal play during hard lateral forces to the rear axle (ie: hard cornering).

The TRD collars limit the lateral play but do not limit vertical twist. Polyurethane bushings would help but they would limit the vertical twist and negatively potentially negatively limit axle movement during suspension travel.

If you only DD your car this mod is probably not worth it. The cost was roughly 400 CAD shipped iirc. If you track your car then this mod is likely worth it as hard cornering could change the rear toe and lead to inconsistent handling during cornering.

***When you re tighten the main axle through bolt make sure you only torque it down with the axle at normal driving height. Easiest way to do this is to use the jack to raise the car from the rear axle cross beam. Once the car lifts up slightly off of the jack stand you are at the correct height. The torque spec is 67ft/lbs
No one ever wants to give a Yaris the point by...
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Old 04-27-2018, 03:39 PM   #2
2ZR swap. DO IT! Ask how!
CrankyOldMan's Avatar
Drives: 09 Meteoric Metallic HB
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 2,334
So they're not a full replacement, just a means of filling the void in the rubber? Interesting. I just bought a small lathe, perfect for turning small plastic parts like these...
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Old 04-27-2018, 09:41 PM   #3
tmontague's Avatar
Drives: '08 2zr swapped Vios M/T
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Caledonia Ont.
Posts: 2,928
Correct, this set up retains the oem bushing specs for axle suspension movement but limits any lateral movement that can still happen. Simple collars to fill the voids with non compressible material
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Old 04-27-2018, 11:58 PM   #4
Drives: 2009 Yaris S
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Socal
Posts: 333
Cranky, should you make some.. Id be down. these would follow under STS classing rules
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Old 12-15-2019, 07:50 PM   #5
Drives: 2012 Sedan
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: New York
Posts: 15
pics are dead. can no longer see them. Could you re-upload, please? I would love to see this and maybe buy a set.
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