Alpine System

[bigsky2]

Agreed with Razr.

I actually mounted the crossovers in the rear of my car on the amp rack along with my amplifiers and distribution blocks.

I had to use about 40 ft. of wiring to run the wire for the front L/R tweeter and L/R woofer all the way to the trunk area. About 20 ft. of wire each side.

I didn't like the space around the lower dash area, and I am not keen on mounting the crossovers right inside the door panel.

Good quality wire will keep the singal strong throughout and keep interference to a minimum.

I used Audison and Knukonceptz wiring for my application if anyone is curious.

[jdubau55]

These????

and

these??

Good call? Bad call? I figure they are both Focal, both Access 1 series. Practically the same but not. So that means I will have a good speaker match front and rear??? Or am I dumb and ignorant?

[bigsky2]

jdubau55:

LOL - I have the exact same speakers.

For the fronts I am running the 165 A1, component and for the rears I am running 130 CA1 (5" 2-way coaxial).

But you can definitely fit 6/6.5" in the rear panels with a custom spacer/bracket (see my sig if you are inclined to make your own).

They perform very well, and I believe the 165A1 components are one of the best component speakers in terms of price:performance.

[jdubau55]

I'm thinking about amping them too but I dont know about the $$

[bigsky2]

You definitely need to amp them to bring them to life.

Running Focals, Alpine, Infinity, MB Q, any midrange priced speakers off deck power ruins the listening experience.

If you are short on money, I still suggest going ahead with component speakers and or mid-range priced speaker systems. At least by getting something like a component speaker, you are future-proofing yourself for a short period of time in the event that you decide to purchase an amplifier at a later time.

I don't suggest cutting corners by getting strictly coaxials for the front and rear and just call it a day.. But this is my opinion, as I am very concerned with sound.

[jdubau55]

Due to the fact that this is my first new car. I will be doing it right and from what I hear comps in the rear is pointless. I think like you say I will want to run them amped. I may have to take the wiring kit I got back and get one for multiple amps just in case. A nice 75x4 would be nice.

[bigsky2]

Originally Posted by jdubau55

Due to the fact that this is my first new car. I will be doing it right and from what I hear comps in the rear is pointless. I think like you say I will want to run them amped. I may have to take the wiring kit I got back and get one for multiple amps just in case. A nice 75x4 would be nice.

Components in the rear is entirely optional. The Focal 130CA1 are coaxials, not components. Only comps in my car are the fronts.

I usually suggest components for the front, and comparable coaxials for the rear. Spend a good portion on a two pairs of speakers, and save for an amp that will come at a later time.

[jdubau55]

Originally Posted by bigsky2

Components in the rear is entirely optional. The Focal 130CA1 are coaxials, not components. Only comps in my car are the fronts.

I usually suggest components for the front, and comparable coaxials for the rear. Spend a good portion on a two pairs of speakers, and save for an amp that will come at a later time.

Agreed. I like the Focal more than the Alpine X for that reason. The Focals are almost identical expect the front will be comps and the rear coax, but they will still be almost the exact same set. I dont think Alpine makes Type X coax' so I'd have Type X comps and Typr R coax's.

[bigsky2]

RE: Amps

I'm not an expert, but my car audio buddy informs me that Japanese amps are usually weaker than USA amps.

But I think for Focal Access series, you don't require a Zapco competition or reference series amp. I'm powering the Focals with an Eclipse XA4000 (Japanese amp, Class D, Digital, gets the job done)

[jdubau55]

I guess I'll see how I feel once I install everything.

[Razr]

Originally Posted by bigsky2

RE: Amps
I'm not an expert, but my car audio buddy informs me that Japanese amps are usually weaker than USA amps.

As with most generalizations, this commonly heard one also falls over more often than not

The thing with amplifiers is that many manufacturers use dubious rating methods (can anyone say PMPO ) in order to boost their marketing performance.

The good news is that the Comsumer Electronics Association have created a common standard for rating car audio amplifiers, which allows you to compare apples with apples.

All respectable brands have now embraced this system, so the playing field is now levelled.. If the brand you're looking at doesn't have CEA-2006-A power and performance ratings, and the CEA logo, it's probably wiser to move onto another brand - the only logical reason they woudn't publish a CEA-2006-A rating is because they're too afraid to!

Even still, there's always going to be car audio salespeople that will try to convice that brand X has some magical property that makes it sound better, hit harder, provide more musicality etc etc. The only things that will make one decent amplifier sound different to another decent amplifier of equal power are signal processing (bass boost, eq, subsonic filters etc) or just plain poor setup.

The fact is that two non-faulty amplifiers with reasonable performance specs and the same power output will sound the same. In fact, Richard Clark of Autosound 2000 fame has $10,000 burning a hole in his pocket to prove this point!

Anyways, peace all! I know there's gotta be someone I've just upset

Rock on doods

[sqcomp]

Ha HA! Finally! someone else outside of the sound forums who knows about RC's challenge!

This is based off the true idea that a Watt is a Watt no matter what amplifier it comes from. This is basically saying that a Watt from a POS Boss amplifier is the same as a Watt from a top end McIntosh. amplifiers making the same power at the same signal level do NOT sound different...IF there are NO eq's or sound shaping variables.

Dammit...work is almost over...I'd get into it more but I've said enough.

[jdubau55]

Well I kind of held my tongue and was also confused by bigsky's post about the amp. I was thinking to myself what difference does it make what amp I use with the Focals? I mean...like you say, a watt is a watt. I can tell you for sure I will be using what I can truely afford if I do amp them. Which means 300 or less for my front\rear amp.

[Razr]

Well, an undistorted Watt from a POS Boss with a proper signal, gain settings and speaker load will sound the same, as a McIntosh Watt..

It's just that the McIntosh will make a lot more undistorted Watts, will likely be more energy effecient, looks waay sexy, won't overheat or shut-down, and will outlast you and all of your cars :)

[Razr]

Originally Posted by jdubau55

Well I kind of held my tongue and was also confused by bigsky's post about the amp. I was thinking to myself what difference does it make what amp I use with the Focals? I mean...like you say, a watt is a watt. I can tell you for sure I will be using what I can truely afford if I do amp them. Which means 300 or less for my front\rear amp.

The key is just to buy into a quality brand. 100 undistorted Watts from an Alpine amp will sound the same as 100W from a Rockford Fosgate, MTX, Soundstream, Pheonix Gold, McIntosh, etc.. heck it'll even sound the same as a Pioneerache, Sony, Kenwood, Clarion etc, etc.

If you buy a POS bargain basement brand it might also sound the same, but you'll be saving money at the expense of reliability, features, build quality and backup support.

Stick the the big name brands and you won't go wrong.

[sqcomp]

Razr, I think you hit it on the nose.

What everyone needs to know is HOW to properly level match your system. That will keep distortion and clipping COMPLETELY out of the picture.

As was mentioned, people spend more for engineering quality and reliability. You buy authorized to get local and factory support.

Holler at me if anyone wants the low down on how to PROPERLY level match your system. You can get close by ear and I can tell you how to do that as well BUT for dead on accurate level matching you'll need an O-scope. A REAL shop and installer should be able to do this for you if you don't have access to a scope.

[ChinoCharles]

I seriously feel like I've been living under a rock for 21 years.

http://www.alpinef1status.com

I searched eBay and Froogle and came up with a couple of dingy used head units. (used, stolen, whatever) How much are those components and what do they sound like?

I have never seen this line until today! Credit to sqcomp... I found it where he used to work and he'll likely be the first to chime in!

Just look at this crap! Its beautiful! I'll bet its a freekin' fortune too!

img_dvi-9990_p.jpg
img_spx-z15m_p.jpg
img_tmi-m990_p.jpg

[Violin]

The list price on that head unit is $2,400.

I think you should get it.