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Old 06-23-2009, 04:05 AM   #1
AlainMikli
 
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SS Brake Line + Brake Pad + Rotor Installed~

Installed Today:

Goodridge Stainless Steal Brake Lines (Front & Rear)

CarboTech brake pads + Drilled+Slotted Rotors (fron Garm)

Now, I really feel I'm stopping when I step the brake pedal
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File Type: jpg DSC09496.jpg (148.6 KB, 619 views)
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:15 AM   #2
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Great looking lines..

How much firmer do you find the peddle? How much did the kit cost?

Thanks
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:01 AM   #3
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Do your rear lines go all the way to the rear brakes? Look kind of short to me.
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Old 06-23-2009, 09:12 AM   #4
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why is the tab on your camber bolt pointing down instead of in?
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Old 06-23-2009, 10:06 AM   #5
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nice work Him ....

did you have to bleed the lines ? how to do it ?? my brakes setup are still waiting to be install ....and so does my exhaust ....
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:58 AM   #6
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Of course you have to bleed the lines!

Couple thoughts on this brake setup. First, as the OP said, he FEELS like he's stopping when he steps on the brakes. Now, in reality, that's all it is. "Feel". The factory brakes might not give you the ultimate in "feel", but they WILL stop the car as quickly as the TIRES are capable of. Any other brake setup you put on the car isn't going to stop the car any faster with the same tires.

I'm not saying the feel isn't good or important, though. The SS lines reduce the amount of give in the hydraulic system, which can directly be felt in the brake pedal as less movement. The brakes will actuate quicker and respond to your inputs under threshold braking a little better. (IF you have the skills to take advantage of it) And the Carbotech pads will likely grab a little better when cold and a LOT better when hot, which is most of the difference that you can feel. The result of that is more braking with less pedal effort. Not "more braking", really... just "less effort".

The main reason to upgrade brakes from a performance aspect is so they'll handle more heat. This is the biggest thing that the Carbotech pads will do for you. In a track environment where you're making repeated decelerations from high speed, the stock pads will fade pretty quickly. A good pad like the Carbotech will take a lot more heat before it begins to fade. Good stuff... if you go to the track.

BUT... if you go to the track, please don't use those drilled rotors! They're fine for the street, but I can't tell you how many drilled rotors I've seen at race tracks with CRACKS in them. In street driving, we don't normally get our brakes super-hot, and it's not a problem. But, in racing, we DO get the brakes really hot, and those holes in the rotor create weak areas that are an invitation for a crack to begin.

Bottom line: Great setup for street, looks good. Will "feel" better, and will offer a little more resistance to occasional mild heat fade. But, for the track... leave the blingy rotors and get some solid rotors. They'll dissipate heat better and they won't be prone to cracking.
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Old 06-23-2009, 01:55 PM   #7
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Sure I have bleed the lines!

Thanks Loren, very detail explanation

Last edited by AlainMikli; 06-23-2009 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 06-23-2009, 02:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CB900F2 View Post
Great looking lines..

How much firmer do you find the peddle? How much did the kit cost?

Thanks
Um...before I step around 70% of the peddle to stop in some normal speed(local stop sign & traffic light) and takes a long time to stop.
now, I only step 40% to stop my car effectively.

In some highway at 60-70mph, I have to down shift to 3rd gear in order to stop for a traffic light, now I can stop at 4th even 5th gear in the same length & time.

Plus, 2 of my usual passenger say the same thing, before they felt I stop the car very very soft & take a long time to stop it, however they can tell when I step on the peddle right now

$120 for the goodridge ss brake line

Quote:
Originally Posted by vten View Post
nice work Him ....

did you have to bleed the lines ? how to do it ?? my brakes setup are still waiting to be install ....and so does my exhaust ....
thanks Tan

what are you going to have on your brake setup?
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Old 06-23-2009, 02:22 PM   #9
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Nice. But I'd like to see pics with the rotors on.
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Old 06-23-2009, 02:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by staticorex View Post
Nice. But I'd like to see pics with the rotors on.
Sure, I'll post some after I wash my car today
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Old 06-23-2009, 02:30 PM   #11
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Woot. :p
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Old 06-23-2009, 02:55 PM   #12
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I'm still wondering why the goodridge lines only go half way instead of all the way to
the drum and if it makes any difference.
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Old 06-23-2009, 02:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian View Post
and if it makes any difference.
nope.

teflon is gonna expand more than steel brake tubing. the shorter the teflon the better.
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you nailed it sir.
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Old 06-23-2009, 03:16 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loren View Post
They'll dissipate heat better and they won't be prone to cracking.
I really don't see how something with more mass and less surface area will dissipate heat better than something with less mass and more surface area. As far as cracking, I don't understand why 911 turbos, skylines, and other 400-500 hp cars can run with drilled rotors stopping their much heavier, much faster cars without cracking. I'm pretty sure these will hold up for a 2 minute auto cross run just fine.

Also, with the stock rotors and pads I had problems with glazing the pads and warping the rotors. So far the R1 drilled and slotted rotors and carbotech pads have lasted longer than stock ever did, and they still look pretty much new.
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Old 06-23-2009, 04:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
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I really don't see how something with more mass and less surface area will dissipate heat better than something with less mass and more surface area.
The holes in brake rotors have NOTHING to do with surface area. They don't have anything to do with cooling, either. Their original purpose was to give the gasses produced by old-school brake pads (that haven't been used in over 40 years) someplace to go. Now, they're almost entirely there because folks think they look cool. They do add a bit of lightness, that's about their only true benefit.

More mass in a brake rotor allows them to absorb more heat over a longer period of time. Talk to Spec Miata racers about brakes. A lot of those guys run the smaller 1.6 Miata brake rotors because they're lighter and every little bit helps. BUT... they can tell the difference between a NEW full-thickness (and thus full mass) rotor and one that is worn down to its service limit. A new full-thickness rotor (with more mass) will dissipate more heat and resist fade longer than it's thinner cousin.

Quote:
As far as cracking, I don't understand why 911 turbos, skylines, and other 400-500 hp cars can run with drilled rotors stopping their much heavier, much faster cars without cracking. I'm pretty sure these will hold up for a 2 minute auto cross run just fine.
The reason they HAVE the cross-drilled rotors is purely bling. People like you EXPECT them to have it... just like the ridiculously large and heavy wheels that are popular these days. The reason they work on those cars is equally simple. The engineers who designed the car over-engineered the braking system to prevent heat-related problems. This is a wildly different concept than taking an economy car like a Yaris and simply fitting a set of rotors that someone has taken to a drill-press. (and don't assume that there's much more involved in making these rotors than that... there isn't... most aftermarket cross-drilled rotors begin with a standard blank)

Holding up for a 2-minute autocross run? I never said ANY brake system wouldn't do that! I said "race track". I'm talking about lap after lap of braking from 90-50, from 70-30, from 80-40... over and over. I'm NOT making this up, I've seen cracked drilled brake rotors at race tracks on everything from Porsches and Audis to Mustangs.

Quote:
Also, with the stock rotors and pads I had problems with glazing the pads and warping the rotors. So far the R1 drilled and slotted rotors and carbotech pads have lasted longer than stock ever did, and they still look pretty much new.
Did you ever try just the Carbotech pads with the stock rotors? Hmmm?
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Old 06-23-2009, 05:09 PM   #16
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What about just slotted rotors as oppossed to cross drilled and slotted? Any difference there?
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Old 06-23-2009, 05:13 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supmet View Post
Also, with the stock rotors and pads I had problems with glazing the pads and warping the rotors. So far the R1 drilled and slotted rotors and carbotech pads have lasted longer than stock ever did, and they still look pretty much new.
warping the rotors will relate directly back to poor braking habits.
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Originally Posted by xnamerxx
I hate people like you (xbgod) because your the reason I don't come to this board. You spout nonsense and lies and people who don't know any better hold you in high regards because they can't tell the wheat from the chaff.
you nailed it sir.
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Old 06-23-2009, 05:18 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by supmet View Post
I don't understand why 911 turbos, skylines, and other 400-500 hp cars can run with drilled rotors stopping their much heavier, much faster cars without cracking. I'm pretty sure these will hold up for a 2 minute auto cross run just fine.
Porsche brake discs are not drilled. If i only knew the word in english. The holes are made different, they are part of the production progress but not drilled later.
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