Remote Start DIY Wiring Guide 2006-2010 Yaris

[adam1981]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Headlights: No low current tap, (~5A for low beams) - negative trigger, sky blue wire in pin 8 of headlight stalk connector.

Door triggers (negative input when door is open):
FL-red wire 4A-21, FR-light blue wire 4A-24, RL-green wire 4A-5, RR-light blue wire 4A-20, Trunk/Hatch- Sky blue wire 4A-7

If the alarm only has one input for the 2 or 4 doors, you can tap all wires together.


Auto window up/down module install:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=39

4A is the top left harness on that main panel behind the pull out pocket right?

All the wires match up except Green Pin 5 is Yellow on mine and There is nothing in Pin 20; there is a Blue in 19...

With the windows...do I have to have this additional module? The way my manual reads it will do auto-up without any additional modules... Can I just tap the Up Motor wires on that chart?

Also, something else I noticed, my horn is not sounding when it should with use of RS/Alarm. I tapped the wire under the column like your document said... It is negative switching right?

I need to get you a 6-pack for all this help!

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by adam1981

4A is the top left harness on that main panel behind the pull out pocket right?

All the wires match up except Green Pin 5 is Yellow on mine and There is nothing in Pin 20; there is a Blue in 19...

With the windows...do I have to have this additional module? The way my manual reads it will do auto-up without any additional modules... Can I just tap the Up Motor wires on that chart?

Also, something else I noticed, my horn is not sounding when it should with use of RS/Alarm. I tapped the wire under the column like your document said... It is negative switching right?

I need to get you a 6-pack for all this help!

Check the 4A wires relative to this:
Conn 4A 4B.jpg

For the windows, you can use those same wires if your system has the auto roll up feature. Just make sure that it is rated for high current (20+A) or else you will need relays.

For the horn, the black wire on the spiral cable connector is definitely it, and it is definitely negative switched. Check your tap to make sure it bit all the way in.

[adam1981]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Check the 4A wires relative to this:
Attachment 37551

For the windows, you can use those same wires if your system has the auto roll up feature. Just make sure that it is rated for high current (20+A) or else you will need relays.

For the horn, the black wire on the spiral cable connector is definitely it, and it is definitely negative switched. Check your tap to make sure it bit all the way in.

Yeap, that is the connector and the direction I was counting the terminals... So, I guess my green wire is yellow and not too sure about the discrepancy on blue 20. I will recount again, but have 4 or 5 times now...

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by adam1981

Yeap, that is the connector and the direction I was counting the terminals... So, I guess my green wire is yellow and not too sure about the discrepancy on blue 20. I will recount again, but have 4 or 5 times now...

OK. I just noticed you have an 08 sedan. On that 4A-5 is yellow instead of green.

I have an 08 Sedan fuse box on my test bench, and I also see the missing wire in 4A-20 (which the EWD for an 08 sedan says should be there). Those two wires are actually tied together as a single input into the ECM, so you probably only need the yellow and that is probably the reason for the lacking blue.

[adam1981]

Originally Posted by CTScott

OK. I just noticed you have an 08 sedan. On that 4A-5 is yellow instead of green.

I have an 08 Sedan fuse box on my test bench, and I also see the missing wire in 4A-20 (which the EWD for an 08 sedan says should be there). Those two wires are actually tied together as a single input into the ECM, so you probably only need the yellow and that is probably the reason for the lacking blue.

Identified all of the wires and confirmed they are the right ones! Thanks for your continued help! However, they have proven difficult to tap because of the little slack in the harness.

So...I am going to have to connect all the door and truck triggers together. Got to thinking though, when I do this - the Driver Info Center is going to show all doors opened when only one actually is...

Do you know if I could place a diode in line with each of the taps before I tie them together to prevent the problem caused by just tying them all together - to maintain the integrity of each circuit? Will a diode pass the negative/ground provided by the switching?

[CTScott]

Originally Posted by adam1981

Identified all of the wires and confirmed they are the right ones! Thanks for your continued help! However, they have proven difficult to tap because of the little slack in the harness.

So...I am going to have to connect all the door and truck triggers together. Got to thinking though, when I do this - the Driver Info Center is going to show all doors opened when only one actually is...

Do you know if I could place a diode in line with each of the taps before I tie them together to prevent the problem caused by just tying them all together - to maintain the integrity of each circuit? Will a diode pass the negative/ground provided by the switching?

Yes, you can diode isolate them to keep them separate. You would tap each door wire and insert a diode between each and the door open input on the alarm. The line on the diode needs to be towards the alarm side.

[adam1981]

Originally Posted by CTScott

Yes, you can diode isolate them to keep them separate. You would tap each door wire and insert a diode between each and the door open input on the alarm. The line on the diode needs to be towards the alarm side.

Got to browsing some of the other threads... Would there be a down side to tapping this pink wire for the door trigger for the alarm?

Think it would be a little easier than soldering in diodes...

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=14