swap for 2zz-ge????

[yarisTOONR82]

does anyone know what would be needed to make the swap other than the engine?

would the ECU need to replaced?

I'm sure there are loads of compatiblity issues, does anyone know what they are?

[Dragonacc]

Originally Posted by yarisTOONR82

does anyone know what would be needed to make the swap other than the engine?

would the ECU need to replaced?

I'm sure there are loads of compatiblity issues, does anyone know what they are?

You'll definitely need a different ECU. You'll need custom mounts, and you may need to modify the frame to fit the engine.

You'll have to figure out what transmission to use too. The swap has been done before, but not in the US to my knowledge.

It's not a Honda swap, it'll cost a lot of money if you have a shop do it and at this point I would not consider it a DIY project.

EDIT: BTW - There are other threads on this if you search.

[jdubau55]

Diff tranny, diff axles, diff ecu, diff wiring harness, diff pedal set, diff mounts....the list could go on and on. It would be a wiring nightmare.

[mikeukrainetz]

this topics been beat to death in other threads but... its not all bad, buy a donor car. a complete car, im trying to find one thats been punched in the back. pull the harness and leave everything intact for the swap. please find the other threads.

[sdmf]

if you really want a 2zz go to the 2zz specialists, www.monkeywrenchracing.com fully built race 2zz available. starting at 6g's

[spkrman]

Originally Posted by sdmf

if you really want a 2zz go to the 2zz specialists, www.monkeywrenchracing.com fully built race 2zz available. starting at 6g's

now that would be fun

[mikeukrainetz]

fun i agree but id sooner pay $1200 for a core and $3000 for a rebuild on a stock 2000 celica GT. 180hp is more than enough for the time being.

[jdubau55]

If I was going fully built I would def have one of Japans top tuners do it. JUN, Top Secret, Signal, etc just to name a few.

[Biggie™]

Originally Posted by jdubau55

If I was going fully built I would def have one of Japans top tuners do it. JUN, Top Secret, Signal, etc just to name a few.

Balahahahah!

If I was going with a 2ZZ-GE, I would just buy a Celica GTS. They came with the 2ZZ, are almost as light as a Yaris and have WAY better suspension and brakes.

The only engine worth all the trouble swapping in to a Yaris is the 3S-GTE, at least it can make some power!

[fu_im_from_texas]

I haven't been able to find any information that directly applies to the 1nz. Here is some info on swapping the 2zzge into a mr2 spyder. It appears that the 1zz and 2zz are similar (mounting points, and wiring harness). I do not think the 1nz shares these attributes...all I can say is swapping the nz1 for the 2zz is probably harder than this...

http://spyderchat.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12337

Since my 2ZZ arrived and after some long nights I managed to gather at last in one place all the useful info I got from SC. Thanx to CIN, LR, 22XY, dmc and Blitzo here is a more detailed doc. I have pictures from the existing swaps so far, but for now this will suffice.

-Cooling system the existing from 1ZZFE, although TPS used a bigger radiator.

-Fuel pump from 1ZZFE

-Dipstick from 1ZZFE but needs modification (you either cut the 2ZZ bracket and weld it on or just dont use a bracket(I put the bracket on). Did you fit the dipstick before you put the engine in? Otherwise, you are going to have some fun. I had to hack off some pieces and then I had to fit the dipstick underneath the oil pipe to the valve cover in the back. I'm not sure how you could get it on with the engine in the bay. You have to use the 1ZZ dipstick and modify it a bit. IIRC you need to hack a bracket.)

-Harness from 1ZZFE plus 3 extra cables from lift and one extra ground cable. (Use the 1zz harness. Add 3 wires. 1 for the vvtL oil pressure sensor and 2 for the vvtL control module. The plugs come from the 2zz harness. You will have to extend the wires. The harness you have to use the 2ZZ coil cover plastic piece so you can install it. Just follow the excel sheet provided by blitzo and you should be OK. I think I did change something but I am not sure if you need to (had to do with the knock sensor I changed) because there where 2 different wiring diagrams for the 00 and the 02 engines. I used another pin to hook up the knock sensor. You have an 00 engine so you should look at the 00 wiring diagrams. I also used those since I changed to the 00 knock sensor. The 02 has 2 pins and the 00 has 1 pin for the knk sensor. The common 00 and 02 pins are in different locations. IIRC 27 instead of 28. So what you do is just use the 00 position. You can follow the wire from the knk sensor into the harness plug and you will know where it is on the 2ZZ. Do the same for the 1ZZ and if they are not in the same position just change. IIRC they are in the same position on the 1ZZ and 2ZZ 00 harness so you just forget about the knk sensor alltogether in your case(00 engine)I also think this is the mod monkeywrench does to make the PFC work with the 02 engines. ie change the pin location to the 00 position). There should be two plugs in the OCV area on the motor (top of the head above the bellhousing). One connector is a two wire deal that is the Oil Control Valve. This is not a sensor, this is the valve the computer operates to engage lift. The sensor just next to it and towards the exhaust side of the engine is a single wire oil pressure sensor.

You should finish and install the harness before you install the 2ZZGE. (You could probably get the loom on most of the way, but there is one plug that is in the back and under the intake maifold that would be a real PITA to get at. As for the loom the only difficult connector is the knock sensor under the intake manifold. It is actually easier to install than to take off. You can do it with the engine on the car if you can fit your hands behind the manifold. Loosening the alternator will make things easier.)

-ECU from 2ZZGE or PowerFC. If you get an ECU from 2ZZGE and not a PFC it should better be 2000 or 2001 which they have a higher rev limiter at 8400 rpms. More at newcelica.org.

-Tranny you better use the 6speed from Celica or 5 speed from 1ZZ but with shorter gears.

-Clutch from 2ZZGE

-Intake manifold from 2ZZGE

-MAF
The 2zz uses the same MAF as the 1zz but uses a larger pipe to extend the sensor range. It is not as accurate when reading small amounts of air but as long as o2 correction is retained it shouldn't mater if it is even an issue.

-Intake. You can use the 1ZZ air box with some mods of the pipe from throttle body to MAF or a chopped Injen or custom PPE 2.75" intake that you cut.

-You will also have to change the polarity of the TPS on the 2zz throttle body. You MAY be able to use the 1zz tps and it work ok. The pins that need to be moved around are posted in the library. Ιt is the brown with the red striped one. 1 with 2. Just take the pin out of the connector and swap it. This is done on the connector side

-On the throttle body, I swapped the throttle position sensor. But do I swap the throttle actuator, the metal thing the cable hooks into ( it doesn't look like I need to but I'm unsure)? Do I some how get the throttle to turn the other way ie: over the top (like the Spyder) rather than under the bottom (like the celica)? Or leave that part alone. Last question on this, I hope, how are you guys bracing the throttle cable? No, just make it run the other way. You can't flip the actuator, it only goes one way. I unbolted all of the clips and used one to bolt onto the firewall where a bolt stick out. It is on the right hand side, just parallel to the to of the engine. Then again there are a ton of bolts sticking throught the firewall so anyway you can rig it should work. Also remember to swap the TPS wires.

-You need another serpentine belt at 1845mm, 1 size smaller belt)

-The belt tensioner is the same so you can use either.

-AC pulley from 1ZZFE

-Take out power steering pulley from 2ZZ and put in the idle pulley from 1ZZ.

-You should swap the fuel rail over from the 1zz. The 2zz fuel rail is shaped differently on the side towards the transmission.). Injectors from 2ZZGE.

-Throttle cable must go from the other side. Just attach a mount to one of the bolts on the fire wall so that it will not play around. You then use the mounts on the manifold to make it pass like on the celica

-Alternator is the same so you can use either.

-Hoses
Just use the 1ZZ hoses and plug the rest.
IIRC I closed:
Nipple on the metal pipe near the knock sensor,
Nipple on the Cylinder head near the TB return pipe.
Nipple closest to firewall on the TB
Big nipple near the big pipe to the side of the engine.
Later on I bypassed the TB. Closed the TB nipples with a looping pipe. And just looped the other pipe on the block.


-Engine mounts:
Gearbox Mount - 1ZZ
Intake Mount - 1ZZ
Manifold Mount - 1ZZ
Pulley Mount - 2ZZ

You'll need to edit the 2zz bridge mount a bit. Basically slot the hole towards the rear of the car a little and drill it out so it will accept the bolt from the 1zz mount. It also requires spacers underneath to keep the pulley side of the engine from dipping.
Right engine mount bridge needs to be either fabbed(like in my pic) or you can get the celica one.(I have got one on the way. With regards to the mounts. Once you have the right bridge you can either put spacers underneet it to line up the engine or you can put spacers on left tranny mount(about 10mm in my case) to get the engine lined up and you get a lower CofG. The sump will be exactly in line with the rear suspension member as far as clearance so if the sump hits the chassis hit. From experience this is not a problem since it will hit elsewhere before it hits the sump. I actually figure out that it was best to first get the left mount on first, then unbolt the right mount, bolt it to the bridge, and then coax the mount back into place and bolt it back in. The celica bridge sat the passenger side of the engine too low and too far back. You'd need to add washers under it to raise it, or space the other side to lower the driver's side. You also need to drill out the hole so the 17mm bolt fits...you should probably slot this about 3/8's of an inch to the rear so the engine can sit forward and not be crooked in the car. I followed CIN's advice and put about 10mm spacers under the left tranny bridge. Worked like a charm, the engine sits fine in the car.

-The exhaust manifold needs to be cut at the flange and rewelded about 2-3cm higher. What you can do is cut it off. Reallign the pipes with the flange ON the car and make some spots, then reweld it on the bench

-Made a nifty wooden box that slips around the oil pan and allows the block to rest upon the wood but not on the pan bottom.

Update:
Swap the plastic cover of the harness going to the coilpack plugs and sparks from the 2ZZ to 1ZZ. Don't touch the wires, just open the clips and swap the black plastic cover.
(Ok, now that I have done it, it is much more easier to understand and describe it
CIN put it right, you just need the plastic cover of the harness going to the sparc plugs from 2ZZ to bolt this part on the head. The 1ZZ is no good since it doesn't fit.)

[mikeukrainetz]

confusing as hell but reading through the site helps identify parts and procedures in addition to all of the above.

[sdmf]

Originally Posted by fu_im_from_texas

I haven't been able to find any information that directly applies to the 1nz. Here is some info on swapping the 2zzge into a mr2 spyder. It appears that the 1zz and 2zz are similar (mounting points, and wiring harness). I do not think the 1nz shares these attributes...all I can say is swapping the nz1 for the 2zz is probably harder than this...

http://spyderchat.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12337

Since my 2ZZ arrived and after some long nights I managed to gather at last in one place all the useful info I got from SC. Thanx to CIN, LR, 22XY, dmc and Blitzo here is a more detailed doc. I have pictures from the existing swaps so far, but for now this will suffice.

-Cooling system the existing from 1ZZFE, although TPS used a bigger radiator.

-Fuel pump from 1ZZFE

-Dipstick from 1ZZFE but needs modification (you either cut the 2ZZ bracket and weld it on or just dont use a bracket(I put the bracket on). Did you fit the dipstick before you put the engine in? Otherwise, you are going to have some fun. I had to hack off some pieces and then I had to fit the dipstick underneath the oil pipe to the valve cover in the back. I'm not sure how you could get it on with the engine in the bay. You have to use the 1ZZ dipstick and modify it a bit. IIRC you need to hack a bracket.)

-Harness from 1ZZFE plus 3 extra cables from lift and one extra ground cable. (Use the 1zz harness. Add 3 wires. 1 for the vvtL oil pressure sensor and 2 for the vvtL control module. The plugs come from the 2zz harness. You will have to extend the wires. The harness you have to use the 2ZZ coil cover plastic piece so you can install it. Just follow the excel sheet provided by blitzo and you should be OK. I think I did change something but I am not sure if you need to (had to do with the knock sensor I changed) because there where 2 different wiring diagrams for the 00 and the 02 engines. I used another pin to hook up the knock sensor. You have an 00 engine so you should look at the 00 wiring diagrams. I also used those since I changed to the 00 knock sensor. The 02 has 2 pins and the 00 has 1 pin for the knk sensor. The common 00 and 02 pins are in different locations. IIRC 27 instead of 28. So what you do is just use the 00 position. You can follow the wire from the knk sensor into the harness plug and you will know where it is on the 2ZZ. Do the same for the 1ZZ and if they are not in the same position just change. IIRC they are in the same position on the 1ZZ and 2ZZ 00 harness so you just forget about the knk sensor alltogether in your case(00 engine)I also think this is the mod monkeywrench does to make the PFC work with the 02 engines. ie change the pin location to the 00 position). There should be two plugs in the OCV area on the motor (top of the head above the bellhousing). One connector is a two wire deal that is the Oil Control Valve. This is not a sensor, this is the valve the computer operates to engage lift. The sensor just next to it and towards the exhaust side of the engine is a single wire oil pressure sensor.

You should finish and install the harness before you install the 2ZZGE. (You could probably get the loom on most of the way, but there is one plug that is in the back and under the intake maifold that would be a real PITA to get at. As for the loom the only difficult connector is the knock sensor under the intake manifold. It is actually easier to install than to take off. You can do it with the engine on the car if you can fit your hands behind the manifold. Loosening the alternator will make things easier.)

-ECU from 2ZZGE or PowerFC. If you get an ECU from 2ZZGE and not a PFC it should better be 2000 or 2001 which they have a higher rev limiter at 8400 rpms. More at newcelica.org.

-Tranny you better use the 6speed from Celica or 5 speed from 1ZZ but with shorter gears.

-Clutch from 2ZZGE

-Intake manifold from 2ZZGE

-MAF
The 2zz uses the same MAF as the 1zz but uses a larger pipe to extend the sensor range. It is not as accurate when reading small amounts of air but as long as o2 correction is retained it shouldn't mater if it is even an issue.

-Intake. You can use the 1ZZ air box with some mods of the pipe from throttle body to MAF or a chopped Injen or custom PPE 2.75" intake that you cut.

-You will also have to change the polarity of the TPS on the 2zz throttle body. You MAY be able to use the 1zz tps and it work ok. The pins that need to be moved around are posted in the library. Ιt is the brown with the red striped one. 1 with 2. Just take the pin out of the connector and swap it. This is done on the connector side

-On the throttle body, I swapped the throttle position sensor. But do I swap the throttle actuator, the metal thing the cable hooks into ( it doesn't look like I need to but I'm unsure)? Do I some how get the throttle to turn the other way ie: over the top (like the Spyder) rather than under the bottom (like the celica)? Or leave that part alone. Last question on this, I hope, how are you guys bracing the throttle cable? No, just make it run the other way. You can't flip the actuator, it only goes one way. I unbolted all of the clips and used one to bolt onto the firewall where a bolt stick out. It is on the right hand side, just parallel to the to of the engine. Then again there are a ton of bolts sticking throught the firewall so anyway you can rig it should work. Also remember to swap the TPS wires.

-You need another serpentine belt at 1845mm, 1 size smaller belt)

-The belt tensioner is the same so you can use either.

-AC pulley from 1ZZFE

-Take out power steering pulley from 2ZZ and put in the idle pulley from 1ZZ.

-You should swap the fuel rail over from the 1zz. The 2zz fuel rail is shaped differently on the side towards the transmission.). Injectors from 2ZZGE.

-Throttle cable must go from the other side. Just attach a mount to one of the bolts on the fire wall so that it will not play around. You then use the mounts on the manifold to make it pass like on the celica

-Alternator is the same so you can use either.

-Hoses
Just use the 1ZZ hoses and plug the rest.
IIRC I closed:
Nipple on the metal pipe near the knock sensor,
Nipple on the Cylinder head near the TB return pipe.
Nipple closest to firewall on the TB
Big nipple near the big pipe to the side of the engine.
Later on I bypassed the TB. Closed the TB nipples with a looping pipe. And just looped the other pipe on the block.


-Engine mounts:
Gearbox Mount - 1ZZ
Intake Mount - 1ZZ
Manifold Mount - 1ZZ
Pulley Mount - 2ZZ

You'll need to edit the 2zz bridge mount a bit. Basically slot the hole towards the rear of the car a little and drill it out so it will accept the bolt from the 1zz mount. It also requires spacers underneath to keep the pulley side of the engine from dipping.
Right engine mount bridge needs to be either fabbed(like in my pic) or you can get the celica one.(I have got one on the way. With regards to the mounts. Once you have the right bridge you can either put spacers underneet it to line up the engine or you can put spacers on left tranny mount(about 10mm in my case) to get the engine lined up and you get a lower CofG. The sump will be exactly in line with the rear suspension member as far as clearance so if the sump hits the chassis hit. From experience this is not a problem since it will hit elsewhere before it hits the sump. I actually figure out that it was best to first get the left mount on first, then unbolt the right mount, bolt it to the bridge, and then coax the mount back into place and bolt it back in. The celica bridge sat the passenger side of the engine too low and too far back. You'd need to add washers under it to raise it, or space the other side to lower the driver's side. You also need to drill out the hole so the 17mm bolt fits...you should probably slot this about 3/8's of an inch to the rear so the engine can sit forward and not be crooked in the car. I followed CIN's advice and put about 10mm spacers under the left tranny bridge. Worked like a charm, the engine sits fine in the car.

-The exhaust manifold needs to be cut at the flange and rewelded about 2-3cm higher. What you can do is cut it off. Reallign the pipes with the flange ON the car and make some spots, then reweld it on the bench

-Made a nifty wooden box that slips around the oil pan and allows the block to rest upon the wood but not on the pan bottom.

Update:
Swap the plastic cover of the harness going to the coilpack plugs and sparks from the 2ZZ to 1ZZ. Don't touch the wires, just open the clips and swap the black plastic cover.
(Ok, now that I have done it, it is much more easier to understand and describe it
CIN put it right, you just need the plastic cover of the harness going to the sparc plugs from 2ZZ to bolt this part on the head. The 1ZZ is no good since it doesn't fit.)

like i said just have it done at monkeywrenchracing.com, they do tuning and installs, they specialize in 1zz n 2zz engines.

[mikeukrainetz]

theyd be an excellent resource im sure but my nature basically precludes anything but the backyard engine swap. ill only seriously consider a swap if my current project pans out.