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Old 10-19-2009, 05:51 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickhjort View Post
I would totally go with CTScott's method with the Indicator Module. It's cheap and looks just as good as the Kits, or OEM installation. As long as you place the LED where you want it. I actually put mine in the Gauge Cluster to make it look more OEM, but I think it looks better than OEM myself. I'm sure if you take the time and have the skill you could scratch the OEM icon on the black cluster cover and it would look totally OEM.

The module does exactly what it says in the "CAN WE DO THIS" thread post #398. The light comes on for 1 second on power up and then works like a charm when in use. I equipped it with a white "12V ready" LED, but you can use whatever color you want.

I've noticed only one thing with your Module CTScott. When I hit the on/off switch two times really fast the CC reads two pushes, but the Module only reads one and actually inverts the LED. So you have to hit it again twice really fast to reset it. Also when I turn on my HID headlights there is a quick power drain that resets the module (the light comes on for a second and then the LED is reversed again because the drain doesn't reset the CC) But this only happens if I turn my CC on before the headlights. So if I hit the lights first I have no problems.

It's totally invisible until you hit the switch...see that little white dot?


Video of it working...
http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/f...t=CIMG7073.flv
Ah you're right, I didn't consider that you could mount it in the instrument cluster and it be hidden. Looks pretty sweet btw.

I had some mental picture of some half ass LED sticking out of the dash somewhere. As it is my wife's worried I'm going to somehow mess up her car :)

Even with the LED kit you have, I'm still less comfortable taking apart trim pieces and the entire dash then routing some harnesses and tapping in to some wires under the steering column. I've had bad luck previously with plastics breaking.

The car is only 4 days old, to me at least, so mentally I'll just think it was another $200 for cruise control when I bought it. I'd have paid that.
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Old 10-19-2009, 06:41 PM   #74
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Dude.. You DA MAN!!!!


Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Now that is crazy expensive. You can buy the lower cover with the hole already in it for about $15 (part number 45184-52130-B0) and an ebay stalk for well under $50.

As for the indicator, the switch is a momentary input to the ECM, so on 07-08's there is no indicator. I designed a circuit using a small microprocessor to see the button press and be able to distinguish between the on/off and the other buttons being pressed. Nickjhort installed and is using my prototype one. Cruz_gsr contacted me this week about getting one made, so I built some production ones and have been meaning to post a thread with them for sale. Below is a picture of the module. There is a panel mount blue LED for the indicator (that just requires a 1/4" hole). Two of the three wires are connected to the stalk (or switches for the full DIY version) and the third is connected to the ignition switched wire on the keyswitch. The modules are $25 shipped to the US and $30 shipped to Canada.


Attachment 29263

Attachment 29264
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Old 10-24-2009, 05:26 AM   #75
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by CTScott View Post
Correct.
hi guys,I'm from China with 08'Yaris 1.6AT 5doors liftback,i have done the CC work just like it,but the cc don't work,is it haven't programs in my ECM/ECU?
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Old 10-26-2009, 09:22 PM   #76
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Hey, I'm from Connecticut, and I admittedly know next to nothing about cars or electronics... could someone from CT help me build a 4-button cruise control like the one in the pdf file on page 1 of this thread? I have a 2007 Yaris Liftback with an auto transmission, and I would gladly pay someone to build and install cruise control for me, cause I'd definitely screw it up. Lol.
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:41 PM   #77
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quick question,

im not real familiar with electrical circuits and whatnot, but when adding 2 resistors in a series is it equivalent to the sums of the 2 resistors?

the reason I ask is because i could not find a resistor between 351-426, so i grabbed a 250 and a 150, assuming that together they'd make 370?

or am I just being way too simple minded?
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:36 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coffiend View Post
quick question,

im not real familiar with electrical circuits and whatnot, but when adding 2 resistors in a series is it equivalent to the sums of the 2 resistors?

the reason I ask is because i could not find a resistor between 351-426, so i grabbed a 250 and a 150, assuming that together they'd make 370?

or am I just being way too simple minded?
That's correct. When you connect them in series you sum the resistance (so 250+150 = 400).
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:05 PM   #79
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Okay thanks man, much appreciated
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Old 11-26-2009, 06:13 AM   #80
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thanks,than ive been waiting for this!but i'm not sure that can be use in my car at china!
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Old 11-26-2009, 07:24 AM   #81
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thanks,than ive been waiting for this!but i'm not sure that can be use in my car at china!
Unfortunately, it won't work on your Yaris. Another person from China tried it and verified that your ECM is not setup for cruise control.
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Old 11-28-2009, 02:57 PM   #82
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Two questions: 1) To make the A21-40 connection, are you just jamming the wire into the receptacle housing and hoping it makes connection to the corresponding pin on the ECM? Or do you know the part number for the proper crimp terminal to snap into the housing? 2) Why are you running the clutch switch to the engine bay fuse box instead of to C20-56 on the ECM?

Last edited by tomlock; 11-28-2009 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 11-28-2009, 03:27 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomlock View Post
Two questions: 1) To make the A21-40 connection, are you just jamming the wire into the receptacle housing and hoping it makes connection to the corresponding pin on the ECM? Or do you know the part number for the proper crimp terminal to snap into the housing? 2) Why are you running the clutch switch to the engine bay fuse box instead of to C20-56 on the ECM?
I'm not at my desk right now to easily do the search, so if you look at the other two cruise control threads, you'll find my posting with the part number for the correct pin for the ECM connector.

For the clutch switch connection, you can go to either point, although the fuse box connection is easier to get to from the clutch switch.
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Old 11-28-2009, 04:56 PM   #84
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What Voltage should i see at pin 40
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Old 11-28-2009, 05:41 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by 1NZYaris1 View Post
What Voltage should i see at pin 40
If your ECM supports cruise, pin 40 should measure 12 V with the ignition on, and nothing connected to the pin (other than your voltmeter).
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Old 12-06-2009, 05:28 PM   #86
yaris07hb
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Rough idle following cruise mod on 2007 MT HB

I created a test box to confirm that this mod works on my '07 Hatch with MT before committing to drilling holes in my dash. The box is a portable version of the mod, containing two momentary switches and the correct resistor value. Yesterday, I poked out the rubber seal from Pin 40, ran my ground, and went for a putt. Nothing happened - except that the car began idling really slow - rattling and such. The A/C kicked it back into a normal idle. So, reading further I discovered my mistake - the clutch switch. Today I jumped the correct terminals, reattached my test box, and went for another putt. The cruise function does indeed work correctly (thanks to you smart folks). However, I still have a very low, very rough idle. This was not the case before yesterday.

Is it possible that my failure to follow instructions, not jumping the clutch switch terminals, and attempting to activate the cruise has affected my ECM? I find nothing out of place, nor did I disturb anything other than the ground lug on the battery and the ECM connector to install the wire at Pin 40.

Has anyone else had a rough idle during or after performing this mod? Is it a super-coincidence that I now must perform a forum search on rough idle, and then go clean my MAS or something else?

Thanks...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg test_box1.jpg (17.9 KB, 514 views)
File Type: jpg test_box2.jpg (14.1 KB, 517 views)
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Old 12-06-2009, 08:00 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yaris07hb

Is it possible that my failure to follow instructions, not jumping the clutch switch terminals, and attempting to activate the cruise has affected my ECM? I find nothing out of place, nor did I disturb anything other than the ground lug on the battery and the ECM connector to install the wire at Pin 40.

Has anyone else had a rough idle during or after performing this mod? Is it a super-coincidence that I now must perform a forum search on rough idle, and then go clean my MAS or something else?

Thanks...
Forgetting the clutch switch or bypass of it wouldn't cause an issue, other than the cruise not kicking on.

Your rough idle is probably due to having pulled the connector off of the ECM. Connector A21 carries power to the ECM, so when you pull it, you reset the short term data. Drive it for a couple of days and it should cure itself.
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:55 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yaris07hb View Post
I still have a very low, very rough idle. This was not the case before yesterday.
Same thing happened here when I first did the mod to install the factory stalk on my '07 MT LB, CTScott's right: Give it a full tank of gas to re-learn things, it'll behave itself again.
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Old 12-07-2009, 04:31 PM   #89
yaris07hb
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I drove my Peanut Kar in to work today and the idle seems to be smoothing itself out. Thanks for putting my mind at ease over this - my mechanical skills come from the era of mixture and idle screws.

Time to search for a nice spring-centered, illuminated momentary rocker for my permanent installation.

Thanks,

Pat
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:53 PM   #90
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Wire Routing

So I need some help with the actual routing of the wires...

I have an 08 Sedan MT. I have gone with the 4 button method and Installed them on a project box from the Shack ( I don't want to drill my dash because i want to eventually get a stalk). I'm stowing it in the Drivers side mini glove box essentially the same as mounting on the power mirror panel. I have run the negative lead to the Driver's side door sill to the ground bolt. My issue is how did you guys route this cable over to the passenger side floor (to access the grommet under the carpet)? any pictures of this process would be really nice. Also some help with the clutch switch routing would be nice too.

Thanks guys.... I'm and Audio Engineer so the soldering and electrical stuff is pretty easy for me, but I have never really worked on cars. So I need that help.
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