ANOTHER leaking waterpump @ 30K! PICS>>

[auxmike]

So I open my hood after a 20mi. trip home from work to look things over, and I see a strip of pink spatter under the hood! I knew right away what this meant and grabbed my digicam and stuffed it deep into the engine bay to help me see what's up in there. Below are what the camera saw....
So, it obviously need to be replaced. My optoins are as follows;
Go through major hassel and risk of letting the stealership fix it under warr. hoping they don't mess up something else or scratch up the car...
OR
Buy the freakin' part and DIY it. I DO want to replace the belt, it's getting a little tired looking. I already have an OEM belt in my parts stash.
Has anyone done this job here? Does it require dropping the engine or loosening mounts to get to the pump?
I'm really ticked off that this happens to my first new car after driving old Saturns for years now. I'm used to getting 90-100k out of waterpumps. I also bought a Toyota thinking it's the BEST built car out there. What happend to them?

[DARK AGE 53]

if it's under warranty let the dealer repair it, one thing people don't think about is geting an air pocket when doing this job. An air pocket could cause the engine to over heat, if you know how to bleed your coolant system then you might want to DIY...but because it's still under warranty I'd pass on DIY. Also, why not tell the dealer the coolant leak screwed up your belt and you want that replaced under warranty to.

[auxmike]

Thanks for your input.
Sometimes the hassel of losing a day's work or having to borrow a car to get it repaired is more trouble than buying the piece and doing it right and taking your time. Techs tend to get paid by the job. The more jobs you bang out the more $ you make. A slow tech has a thin wallet, thus they hurry the job.
I've done water pumps many times before and never had a problem with air pockets thus far.
I just don't trust anyone with the car. The few times I've had repairs done on my other cars they always leave out little bits that hold on plastic shields, etc. I hate that!
Looking forward to some other replies.
Thanks!

[Altitude]

It should be fairly easy to replace. The pump itself is in your pictures so you won't need to drop anything to get to it. Just remove the belt, pulley, then all those nuts/bolts you see holding the pump on. Worst part will be getting the bolts out that hold the pulley on so you should probably loosen those before you take the belt off as it will help in keeping the pulley from spinning while you remove the bolts.

[fnkngrv]

No matter the manufacturer you will come across dud parts unfortunately...some manufacturers are better than others however and for the most part the Japanese do it the best IMO. Best of luck on the choice you make. I would do a warranty myself however I would figure out which dealer to take it to. For example if the local dealerships suck ass then I would literally take it 200 miles if need be, but that is just me. Bumper to see it happen to you.

[bankrobber]

I have 99,500 miles and still 0n original pump. I would buy a lifetime pump from AutoZone if they offer one. If my pump goes out soon I will replace belt, and both hoses

[wooverstone8]

I had my leaking water pump replaced at my local Toyota dealership (also where I bought my Yaris new) and I had to bring back my Yaris multiple times right after the water pump replacement because of problems. Plus my local dealership did not provide loan cars, so I was stuck at the dealership for hours…

[Hershey]

Can the coolant from the waterpump get on the front of the engine as well ? We looked at a used 2008 3 door at a private dealership with 47,000+ miles that was a rental at a TOYOTA dealer . It had pinkish dry spots all over the radiator hose , the radiator itself , and on the front frame . This car also had the oil leaking from the head cylinder gasket . Showed the oil and oil residue to the salesman of the small delearship . I then showed where and how to find the leak . After a few tries he ended up with the oil and oil residue on his fingers . Said he would show and tell the mechanics on MONDAY of the leak . Then they would possibly get it fixed under the TOYOTA warranty and sell it . Will keep tabs on that .

[Black Yaris]

do it yourself..... super easy job... just remove the wp pulley, then the wp mounting bolts

[bronsin]

What that grey gooey action going on with the gaskets in the waterpump pictures? That doesnt look factory. I would have to think your wp has been apart.

[auxmike]

Good news is all the parts look rust free, that helps!
I don't think the pump will come out without lowering the engine.
I've ordered the pump and all new hardware + a new rad cap for under $100 shipped. I decided not to get the pulley when I saw it was $44!
I weighed in the time lost at work,sitting in dealer, them having to order the part, my Dad stuck driving 20mi. to pick me up from dealer, or having to borrow his car etc. and decided it's a huge hassel vs. doing it myself and taking my time. I'm sure the dealers tech would fly through this and do a real careless, sloppy job...

[Altitude]

Originally Posted by auxmike

I don't think the pump will come out without lowering the engine.

Are you concerned about clearance or getting tools in there to take the pulley off? The impeller likely only sticks out about an inch - or the thickness of the pulley - so I would think that as long as you can get that pulley off you'll have clearance to remove the WP.

Let us know though, I'd be surprised if in fact the engine needs to be dropped to get it out.

[Black Yaris]

wp will come out with out lowering the engine. you will need to take the one 10mm bolt out that holds the AC lines to the unibody. You then can move the ac lines out of the way enough to get the pump off

[kitsmc]

I have 86K on mine and when I took it to the dealer for a state inspect they noticed one lil speckle of pink on the water pump. So i bought one from Auto Zone lifetime warranty for only $35. I was thinking of taking of the bumber and the cooler plate for easy access to the pump. But just wondering long you think it will last till it really blows?

[KCALB SIRAY]

Originally Posted by auxmike

Good news is all the parts look rust free, that helps!
I don't think the pump will come out without lowering the engine.
I've ordered the pump and all new hardware + a new rad cap for under $100 shipped. I decided not to get the pulley when I saw it was $44!
I weighed in the time lost at work,sitting in dealer, them having to order the part, my Dad stuck driving 20mi. to pick me up from dealer, or having to borrow his car etc. and decided it's a huge hassel vs. doing it myself and taking my time. I'm sure the dealers tech would fly through this and do a real careless, sloppy job...

Here is my DIY with photos. It is very simple to do. http://www.microimageonline.com/foru...er-Pump-on-1NZ

[tadc]

Too bad the DIY images are gone already... severely limits its usefulness.

[Tamago]

NST pulley on this ever?

[KCALB SIRAY]

Originally Posted by tadc

Too bad the DIY images are gone already... severely limits its usefulness.

That would be a server error or not fully updated from a stand alone server from MI. Photos haver not been removed.