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Old 01-10-2013, 06:00 AM   #37
nookandcrannycar
 
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Originally Posted by edmscan View Post
I went and got my battery / charging system tested today ... and all was good. So .. I have the new OEM battery in my Yaris since yesterday and all appears to be running good.

He hooked up his machine to the battery and it was displaying 13.94 Volts. This was as the car was running at idle. He said my charging system is just fine, and that if my battery is dead it will have symptoms like I just experienced.

So I am happy that I should get another 5 or so years before I have to replace the battery again.
Glad it was your battery and not the alternator. I was also having the beginning of similar symptoms when I replaced (on 9-26-2012) my second battery after 3 years and 87k+ miles on that second battery and 225k+ on my Yaris (several members have posted that summer heat, to the extent we have here, is beally hard on car batteries). I have read comments from a few high mileage Yarisworld members that their cars felt a bit revitalized after getting a new battery. After what I initially thought might be an issue but wasn't (CTScott wrote that likely my ECM just needed to relearn the fuel trims...and naturally he was right), my car did feel peppier than before the previous battery had developed any symptoms. Alternator failure was discussed on a long ago thread and I remember a few people bringing up something that is unique to 2007 models that was contributing to alternator failures, but I don't remember what the unique to 2007 issue was. I hope your alternator never has any issues and lasts the life of your Yaris .
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:37 PM   #38
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Alternator failure was discussed on a long ago thread and I remember a few people bringing up something that is unique to 2007 models that was contributing to alternator failures, but I don't remember what the unique to 2007 issue was.
Corrosion within the voltage regulator.
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:09 PM   #39
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Yes .. I hope that my Yaris goes for many more km, or miles (whichever is more ... )
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:19 AM   #40
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Corrosion within the voltage regulator.
Aha, thank you!
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Old 01-12-2013, 04:25 PM   #41
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Hi all,

I have a 2sz-fe engine its 1.3L and I'm doing some shopping around. I saw a battery that had a "26r" would this be compatible with my 2007 vitz?
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:26 PM   #42
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Hi all,

I have a 2sz-fe engine its 1.3L and I'm doing some shopping around. I saw a battery that had a "26r" would this be compatible with my 2007 vitz?
I have a 2007 1.5L with a '26r' in it. My OEM battery lasted 138,111 miles and I replaced that with a '26r' and replaced that '26r' after exactly 3 years and 86,858 miles (oops, I put 87k + on a couple of other posts) with another '26r'. I have almost 9k miles and about 4 months on the new/second '26r'. Both '26r' batteries were inexpensive (see post 7 on this thread for details).
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Old 03-22-2013, 12:56 PM   #43
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Just replaced original oem battery this weekend. '07 with just under 83k miles on it. Car was still starting, but under duress; battery test revealed 233 cca's. Went to menards, got 30 month free replacement group 35 battery for like $70. Batteries plus wanted $100 for their "cheap" and Fleet Farm said they didn't even have a battery for the yaris.
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:13 PM   #44
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I think my battery has 4 years and 80K on it from Wal-Mart, so I just bought an 11lb Braille from MI and will see what happens. My current battery is causing some rough starts and static in the radio I believe...time for a change before click, click click one morning or hot afternoon. This is a great discussion.
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:24 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by baseballfan416 View Post
Just replaced original oem battery this weekend. '07 with just under 83k miles on it. Car was still starting, but under duress; battery test revealed 233 cca's. Went to menards, got 30 month free replacement group 35 battery for like $70. Batteries plus wanted $100 for their "cheap" and Fleet Farm said they didn't even have a battery for the yaris.
That is a great price for a 35 with that level of guarantee . On a trip later this year I'll be near a Menards, but the only trouble (for me, not for many others) would be the geography of executing the warranty, as the two southernmost stores are in Wichita, KS and Cape Girardeau, MO. I've found Batteries Plus to be overpriced on nearly everything they carry. I've comparison shopped there, but I've never ended up buying anything.
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Old 03-22-2013, 08:34 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yarflana View Post
static in the radio
Good to know that someone else has had this symptom. I had it (in the last stage of use) with both my OEM, and the battery after that. I tried to squeeze too much life out of my OEM, and probably the next as well (intervals already mentioned earlier on this thread).
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:14 PM   #47
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Question...put the voltmeter on my battery and it had 12.8 volts which I have read is really a good state to be in. Can a battery be "winding down" and still have that level of voltage? I am tending to think it wasn't as in bad shape as I thought.

I did buy a battery tender for it when I put in the racing battery in case that racing battery doesn't have the gusto it needs.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:16 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by Yarflana View Post
Question...put the voltmeter on my battery and it had 12.8 volts which I have read is really a good state to be in. Can a battery be "winding down" and still have that level of voltage? I am tending to think it wasn't as in bad shape as I thought.

I did buy a battery tender for it when I put in the racing battery in case that racing battery doesn't have the gusto it needs.
With no load a bad battery can read that high. If you want to see how good or bad one is keep the voltmeter on while cranking the starter.
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:18 PM   #49
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Ok, so what should happen when the battery is good and cranking the starter...what happens when bad?
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Old 03-24-2013, 09:33 PM   #50
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Ok, just put my voltmeter on both our Yaris and Honda CRV and when cranking the system, the volts dropped from 12.8 to about 10.5 for the Honda and 11.5 for the Yaris, then they hovered at about 14.6 each during idle. I would say they are both starting to wane since I learned that they should not drop hardly below 12 volts when trying to start the car and the CRV is worse and may be set for a replacement soon?
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Old 03-24-2013, 10:51 PM   #51
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Ok, just put my voltmeter on both our Yaris and Honda CRV and when cranking the system, the volts dropped from 12.8 to about 10.5 for the Honda and 11.5 for the Yaris, then they hovered at about 14.6 each during idle. I would say they are both starting to wane since I learned that they should not drop hardly below 12 volts when trying to start the car and the CRV is worse and may be set for a replacement soon?
My brand new battery sags to just under 11 when cranking. My bad one would drop to 8 volts during cranking.
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:29 PM   #52
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I see that a number of people have the 26R battery size installed. I tried one of those (Everlast, I believe), but found it too low. The original battery is 7.75" high, the 26R measured 7". The battery bracket would not even touch the battery. I realize one could improvise and install a spacer. However, is there no exact fit available as replacement?
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Old 05-15-2013, 10:07 PM   #53
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I see that a number of people have the 26R battery size installed. I tried one of those (Everlast, I believe), but found it too low. The original battery is 7.75" high, the 26R measured 7". The battery bracket would not even touch the battery. I realize one could improvise and install a spacer. However, is there no exact fit available as replacement?
The 26R fits fine on my Yaris. When I replaced the OEM battery, I took it to Wal-Mart and they tried to put in a 35 and it wouldn't fit. I ended up going to Sears and getting a 1 year guarantee 26R that lasted 3 years (Sept 2009-Sept 2012). By September 2012 the prices on the Sears 1 year 26R had increased quite a bit. I decided to go to a different Wal-Mart and see if they would put in a 26R (without asking in advance) if their 35 again didn't fit (Wal-Mart's 26R is cheaper than Sears 26R). I went to the new Wal-Mart and the 35 wouldn't fit so he stopped and told me he'd put in the 26R on his way to the back room to get the 26R. He also showed me (before putting in the 26R) why the 35 wouldn't fit --- the 35 clears the hood while sitting in the proper place, but the clamp that holds the battery down won't fit over it.

YMMV, as (based on some Gen 2 hatch owners having no clamp issues) I'm assuming there must have been some variation in the clamps used for different manufacture date ranges.

A few weeks ago, I was listening to the radio in my car, but also engrossed in a phone conversation. After the phone conversation, my car wouldn't start. I called AAA. Besides getting me started, the driver also tested the battery, asked me some questions, and then said the battery should be replaced, so make sure you clean it up a bit before you go to Wal-Mart so that they won't try to claim you didn't take care of the battery and try to weasel out of the guarantee. Once I do that, I'll live with the free replacement until late this year or early/mid next year and then I'll figure out how to remedy the clamp situation and get the same 35 series NAPA battery that CTScott has in at least one of his Yarii.
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Old 06-24-2013, 01:28 PM   #54
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^^^^^ Update from previous post. Finally wiped down the battery and took the car in to Wal-Mart. The car sometimes hestitates slightly before turning over, but has started every time since the AAA call on April 25th. On that call, the test the driver performed (per the printout he gave me) showed the battery results (under load) to be 11.41 volts, 49 cold cranking amps (rated at 550) and temperature 78 degrees. Then it says charge ____ retest and the word there in the middle (___) has faded so much it is illegible.

Below the battery results on the 4-25-13 printout, the next section reads 'starter test' , then reads 'batt. voltage too low' and lists the voltage as 9.430 and the amps as 129.84 .

Below the 'starter test' on this printout, the final section reads 'charging system test' and then 'no problems' and then reads 'no load' 14.000 and 'loaded' 13.620 .

That driver cleaned off quite a bit of built up corrosion and then sprayed the battery with the kind of anti-corrosion spray that one can buy at an auto parts store.

Fast forward to now. I had the battery tested at Wal Mart and they said it is fine. They said in is registering the full CCA measurement that it should and I asked hat the voltage reading was and they said 12.7 (I didn't ask if that was under load or not). As I was getting back in the car, one of the techs said I shouls get some of the anti corrosive spray and use it and another tech couldn't find a stray can of spray to use then, but grapped a wire brush to remove the slight bit of corrosion that had built up.

Given the above, should I believe that the battery is good, or should I go to AutoZone and see if they'll test it for me and then go back to a different Wal-Mart if necessary?

The battery is the Wal-Mart one with the 1 year replacement warranty (new September 2012) code 26R. The receipt shows 26R-5S .
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