Rear suspension

[Lil Abner]

BUMP!

Has anyone had any long-term experience with this? The thread seemed to have died off before any long-term experience was given.

[cali yaris]

No problems here, been a year now I think?

If you ever did have a problem you can put it back.

[Lil Abner]

Cool, thanks! Just wanted to get some more feedback before I try it.

[mrbond]

Wow, I can't believe I've never seen this before!
I just did this yesterday - took me an hour and a half. Removing the bolts and raising the rear suspension beam was the easy part, as long as the springs were removed and the struts were unbolted from the shock tower. The hard and annoying part was getting the bolt to line up in its new hole.
Impression: the car feels more squat during acceleration, and there's less body pitch noticeable during acceleration. In the corners, the handling is much more predictable and assuring. If any of you have lowered your cars, do this! It's free (the best kind of mod), and it makes a noticeable difference.

[Lil Abner]

Yeah, but a word of caution, I'm lowered on DF210's, and I'm having issues with hitting in the rear. The brackets that hold the brake lines are hitting the frame on small bumps. I already cut the welds off and moved the brackets, but I'm still hitting on something on larger bumps. Next week I'll put it back on my lift and see what else needs to be moved.

[mrbond]

You're still using stock shocks though, correct? I have the tokico blues and DF210's, and I haven't had any issue with the torsion bar or anything attached to it hitting the frame. This mod is probably best suited for those with upgraded shocks, but it'll work either way.

[Lil Abner]

Yeah, stock shocks. But for some reason the rear of my car is also sitting lower than other DF210 installs. I also live in Michigan, were the roads are very un-friendly.

[mrbond]

If they're anything like Chicago roads, I sympathize.

[Lil Abner]

Yeah, they are like Chicago roads. Not as bad as the ones I had to deal with in Detroit.

[mazilla]

Originally Posted by Lil Abner

Yeah, stock shocks. But for some reason the rear of my car is also sitting lower than other DF210 installs. I also live in Michigan, were the roads are very un-friendly.

I was having your same problem last week after doing this mod. How many miles on your stock shocks? My rears were dead, so I bought a new set off Ebay(33.00 each) and the problem is gone. I has three people in the car the other day, no rubbing. Of course tires/wheels/etc are a factor...

[Lil Abner]

The car has about 43,000 miles on it. I've only had the springs on for maybe 5,000 miles. I'd hope the rear shocks aren't dead that quick!!!

[mazilla]

Originally Posted by Lil Abner

The car has about 43,000 miles on it. I've only had the springs on for maybe 5,000 miles. I'd hope the rear shocks aren't dead that quick!!!

Easiet way to tell is just to pull one and test it out, takes about 15 minutes and it may solve your problem. I had no way of knowing how many miles were on my shocks, but I imagine it was much more than 40ish.

(I have df210's as well)

[TickleTimeTim]

so i wanna try this in the next week, running tigertecs and stock shocks. good or bad idea?

[why?]

try it and see what happens, it sounds like it isn't that hard to undo if you don't like the result. I'd suggest grabbing aftermarket shocks though too.

[Autocross72]

Tomorrow I am moving the Opel GT to the shed so I can have room in the garage to install the coil-oversvon my Yaris. While I am at it I am going to relocate the axle to the upper pivot point. I am going to look at detouring the brake lines so they don't hit/rub on the frame. I'll also check to make sure the exhaust is out of the way. Thanks for all the tips in this forum

What I am really wondering is what the effect of raising the roll center is, which was brought up by DocB a few posts up. He didn't really explain what the effect is, or if it is a good or bad thing in the case of am lowered Yaris.

[Lil Abner]

Actually, it's not the roll center that is changed. The roll center only applies to an independent suspension like we have in the front of the car. Talking to some suspension guys, they said it helps bring the rear specs back to factory, as well as the squatting characteristics during acceleration and braking.

I'm not having a problem with my exhaust, but I'm hearing something else hitting back there still. I haven't had time to put it back on the lift to see. I'm pretty sure the exhaust is clear of everything. The brake line brackets will probably need to be moved. I just cut the welds off, and rotated the bracket towards the inside of the car, then re-welded. You could also use some big band clamps. I'll be waiting to see what you come up with if you find other things that might hit!

[Autocross72]

I have the springs and shocks removed and the axle in the upper mounts. I used a floor jack to raise the axle as high as I could without letting the jack hit the fuel pump. The bracket for the brake lines is pretty close to the frame. Maybe that is what is hitting for some people. I took a bunch of pictures, but apparently I can't upload them from my iPad. I'll send them from my computer tomorrow.

I took the advice and cut the beakers off the top of the axle and welded them to the side of the axle. Now there is muCh more clearance.

[importfantasy]

hi everyone. just a heads up I did this little trick on my 07 LB lowered on df210s and everything worked out fine. I just bought a new 2010 LB, lowered it and went to change the pivot point but ran into a problem. removed the bolt, moved the bushing up to 2nd hole, put bolt back in but IT WOULDNT THREAD! after further inspection the inner hole has nothing to thread into, just a hole. maybe they removed this on the 2010+ I dont know. my car is USDM spec 3 door. something to keep in mind for you brand new yari owners