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Old 05-06-2006, 12:24 PM   #1
yaris_the_walrus
 
Drives: soon to be an ORANGE Yaris!
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Question Breaking in a new Yaris

My Yaris will be my first new car and I've heard people talk about "breaking in your car" before you take it on any long trips. Approximately how many kilometres should you drive around the city before you drive it long distances on the highway? I have a few trips planned over the next two months and I don't know if should drive or take the train.
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Old 05-06-2006, 02:08 PM   #2
plushDJ
 
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I don't think highway trips would be a problem, I think they mean don't redline it everytime you hit the gas or run the engine at too low an rpm. I'm only running it around 3000 rpm til 1000km then I'm going to have fun with it. Hope that helps!!
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:48 PM   #3
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Same here, I've been babying the car @ 3k max shifts,... I've been on the highway but haven't done much more than 110 km/h... Once 1000km hits I'll play with the car a bit more... Take your time and enjoy.... Oh and enjoy those 600km's trips on one tank of gas.... hope it lasts once the aggressive driving kicks in...
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Old 05-06-2006, 08:50 PM   #4
why?
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breaking in an engine is mostly done at the factory. Mostly what you want to do is to try and not stay at the same rpm's for too long, and don't rev the heck out of it.

I know specific instructions are written in the owners manual.
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Old 05-06-2006, 09:58 PM   #5
yaris_the_walrus
 
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My concern is that because I walk to work every day I will hardly put any kms on it before I have to go to Toronto.
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Old 05-06-2006, 10:23 PM   #6
Idjiit
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Heh, you don't even wanna know what my break in period has consisted of. :O
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Old 05-06-2006, 10:33 PM   #7
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yaris_the_walrus - drop it off to me, I drive about 100km each day, I'll have it back to you in 10 days.. all nicely broken in....
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Old 05-07-2006, 12:01 AM   #8
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Never baby my new cars.. swing between 2-4k at 2/3 to 3/4 throttle on and off... varying speed from maybe like 60-80km/h (traffic permitting).. that'll be a good start. Just make sure it's nice and warm before you do it.

Taking it too easy won't allow the rings to bed in properly.
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Old 05-07-2006, 01:07 PM   #9
yaris_the_walrus
 
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Ok, thanks. I thought that driving on the 401 at 110 km/h for 4 hours might be too much for a new car but I might try it out and just make sure I stop for dinner on the way.
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Old 05-10-2006, 10:42 AM   #10
Dylanby
 
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Are most people following dealer recommendations for the 1st oil change? Or are you getting one done sooner (after say 1st 1600km)?
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Old 05-11-2006, 12:41 AM   #11
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I had my first oil change at 6900kms, took 3 trips in that time over 1000kms long, and am currently getting 55mpg per tank. I di no 'babying' whatsoever. I treated it the same way I treated my 1980 Chevette. Check your tire pressure weekly. Most important thing.
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Old 07-21-2006, 02:31 PM   #12
poshi
 
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my dealer told me to go back for first oil change at 3000km, and then every 8000km i will do my oil change. they are pretty nice and I love my standard 3 dr hatch.. I got my car for almost 2 wks now. and it's about 1000km.
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Old 07-21-2006, 03:58 PM   #13
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Break in...

I drove it 120 miles from Dealership to place that I was staying shifting around 4k....drove at 65mph.....

Next day left to drive 2086 miles from Minnesota to Maine....Shift points at around 4-4.5k and averaged around 80-85mph.

First Oil Change....called the dealer when I had 3027 miles and he said to call back to have it done at 5k just as the manual states. He also did inform me that the oil that is used is a Synth/Crude oil blend which had been asked in another thread....I plan on changing over to Synth at first change with Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec.
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Old 07-24-2006, 10:02 AM   #14
07WYarisRS
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Castrol and Mobil 1 are still crude/synthetic blends...
Actually 90%-98% cude base stock in Mobil 1
it's a group III synthetic meaning it's a mineral oil that has been refined using the hydrocracked method. Add in a bit of esters and POAs and slap on a lable and call it 100% sytnthetic. Mobil 1 took Castrol to court YEARS ago when they came out with the syntec line for this very reason... But because the finished product no longer resembles the crude base it was made from Castrol won the case and since then 98% of all synthetics are made this way because it's WAY cheaper to make and allows for HUGE profits

If you want to use a REAL synthetic that does not contain mineral oil look up Amsoil, REDLINE or Royal purple. these are pure Group IV or V synthetic lubricants (not oil) (Ester or POA based synthetic lubricants)
we call them oils so we don't confuse the mass public...

Some of these oils only need to be changed every 6 months to 1 year or 35,000miles
figure that out and that's a huge savings over the years you own your car
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Old 07-24-2006, 03:10 PM   #15
fnkngrv
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Good info 07....thanks!
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:31 PM   #16
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i drove it really hard the minute i got the car. thats the best way to break in the car
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Old 07-29-2006, 01:30 AM   #17
TRD_Yaris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07WYarisRS
Castrol and Mobil 1 are still crude/synthetic blends...
Actually 90%-98% cude base stock in Mobil 1
it's a group III synthetic meaning it's a mineral oil that has been refined using the hydrocracked method. Add in a bit of esters and POAs and slap on a lable and call it 100% sytnthetic. Mobil 1 took Castrol to court YEARS ago when they came out with the syntec line for this very reason... But because the finished product no longer resembles the crude base it was made from Castrol won the case and since then 98% of all synthetics are made this way because it's WAY cheaper to make and allows for HUGE profits

If you want to use a REAL synthetic that does not contain mineral oil look up Amsoil, REDLINE or Royal purple. these are pure Group IV or V synthetic lubricants (not oil) (Ester or POA based synthetic lubricants)
we call them oils so we don't confuse the mass public...

Some of these oils only need to be changed every 6 months to 1 year or 35,000miles
figure that out and that's a huge savings over the years you own your car


WOW!! very informative!!! i was unaware. I was wondering why you can get 5 quart jugs of Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1 at WalMart for about $21.76.....that's pretty cheap comparative to Amsoil (which is the sh1t!)


My break in:
1000 miles as stated in Owner's Manual:
-do not maintain the same ENGINE SPEED for too long
-warm up the vehicle atleast until the "COLD" light turns off

-less than 70% throttle for the first 500 miles, then a few short bursts at low RPM after the engine has been warmed up and driven for awhile
-less than 4000 RPM max for the first 500 miles, the next 500 miles under 4500 RPM
-quality gasoline (Chevron, Valero,)


Question: Is H.E.B (Grocery Store chain in Texas area) Fuel Station gasoline any good? i don't know who provides it...
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Old 04-14-2007, 01:42 AM   #18
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I've never broken in a new car before, but I will be starting tomorrow when I get my Yaris.

Anyways this is my experience with other applications:

First off I've owned a new motorcycle before, and the way I broke it in was - treat it as you normally would. Babying engines is NOT the proper way to break them in by any means, even if the manual tells you other wise.

I ran my bike through the gears and didnt shift until pretty high RPM. Not redline, but up there.

and that bike lasted me forever, and you get more power out of it because you didn't baby it, but broke it in PROPERLY.

Another example is my 2stroke RC truck engines that run on 20% nitro fuel.
At max speed they're goin between 20-30000 RPM

Let me tell ya something. The manuals for almost every engine I have owned tell you to idle the engine through 4 tanks of gas, then drive the truck around slowly not going more than half throttle. It doesn't say take any breaks or anything, but it would take roughly 25 minutes for initial break-in.

That method is BUNK - It's HORRIBLE way to break in the engine. You will have less power long-term and you will need rebuild the piston and sleeve far sooner than the GOOD way to break in the engine. Which is as follows.

Heat cycle: moment you fire up the truck start driving it around...not higher than 1/2 throttle, run for 2-3 minutes and then take breaks to let the engine good down, do that for about 15-18 minutes runtime, then do it again and start doing some short full throttle blips and such and run 2-4 minute hea cycles for about 10 minutes or so.


I realize that my tiny little 2stroke nitro RC truck engine is VASTLY different than a full sized vehicles engine, but it's still the same basic principal. Don't baby the engine, but don't over-do it either. You want to drive it like you normally would...unless you're a race car driver then tone it down a bit lol. Most importantly make sure the engine is up to temperature! Tempurate is one of the biggest things we look at for proper break in when it comes to my RC car engines - too cold and you'll have crank problems, too hot and you'll burn out the piston too fast.
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