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Old 11-23-2015, 12:46 PM   #37
Jason@SportsCar
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimKellyfan View Post
I beg to differ, you do not know how we all drive, as a group or individually. I did the Richard Petty driving experience at Charlotte and Bristol, and I am more of a short track guy (did better at Bristol), I definitely have been, as Mark Martin described himself, "on the edge of out of control".
I was and still think it odd/crazy/stupid/but fun that at times I drive my personal cars harder than those race cars on a track.
So, understood on your points and thanks.
More specific on my warp is only when I am spirited driving it starts to after repeated use, but not everyday driving, it stays OK, but, I just have borderline run out. Too, looking closely, I do not need to even change my pads, but will soon, wife's Camry needs a tune up, and whatnot first on list.
But, you definitely cannot say you ride harder than any one of us, as you do not know how we drive.
That said, I do agree with you stock Yota set up is great, we just want greater, and spend as little as possible to do so.
To have the Lexus handling type car while spending just a bit more than a Yaris. I love pissing the Lexus owners off when I crack into a corner at a much higher rate of speed than they can and it sticks like glue. (Just need a higher rate of spring and I can take a 90 degree turn at 50 mph with out front tire rub as it currently would do if I did, as I have done twice)

A Richard Petty driving experience, and something that sounds like street racing. You are so overqualified. The fail in this thread continues.
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Old 11-23-2015, 01:08 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimKellyfan View Post
More specific on my warp is only when I am spirited driving it starts to after repeated use, but not everyday driving, it stays OK, but, I just have borderline run out. Too, looking closely, I do not need to even change my pads, but will soon, wife's Camry needs a tune up, and whatnot first on list.
But, you definitely cannot say you ride harder than any one of us, as you do not know how we drive.
What you call warp is pad material bedding into the rotor, that only happens when you stand on the brakes when their really hot sitting still. Like I mentioned before I've seen my rotor temps hit 700f, I didn't get the pedal vibration once. I've been to SC not a whole lot of mountains there, so not a whole lot of reasons to be riding the brakes like a $2 hooker.
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:25 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by xnamerxx View Post
What you call warp is pad material bedding into the rotor, that only happens when you stand on the brakes when their really hot sitting still. Like I mentioned before I've seen my rotor temps hit 700f, I didn't get the pedal vibration once. I've been to SC not a whole lot of mountains there, so not a whole lot of reasons to be riding the brakes like a $2 hooker.
Cool, thanks for the info.
Yeah, I try n use the gears, rather than stand on em in extreme circumstance, not as often as this thread makes it out to be.
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:35 PM   #40
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason@SportsCar View Post
A Richard Petty driving experience, and something that sounds like street racing. You are so overqualified. The fail in this thread continues.
I mentioned the driving experience only to mock myself for how hard I am on the car sometimes, but also to enlighten you and the false statement you had, knowing you drove the hardest of them all, and not really knowing that fer sher



Actually, I started this thread, as there really was no real stickie or good info on other options or any options for that matter and wanted to help myself and others, as to what is available, didn't really start the thread for a bashing by the almighty racing clown, then get bashed again.

I have more than 480 certificates (in multiple manufacturing brands) in automotive, electrical and tires and do not claim to be the know it all, actually try and help, and be helped. I have been working on cars since 83 helpin pa, 84 in school, then on personal or girlfriends cars until 89 then part time until 97 then full time since then, but, dude, I do not claim to be all knowing.
I came here looking for tips and tricks, saving me time and helping others when I can, as much as I can.

There are some good techs on here that we want their advice, what they did on their brakes and what they recommend. I merely also stated what I was doing as well.
Feedback good and bad is good.
Fail troll is not.
So, you are either here to help or to not.
So far though

Lets turn the thread back into what we all can do to have the best brakes and the cheapest way to do it. As well as some pretty ones and some racy ones and plain jane ones. And newer Yaris ones, or older Corolla ones. And so on.

Lotsa good input so far from many thanks.
Hopefully no more bashing from the race clown: barf:
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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Old 11-23-2015, 08:55 PM   #41
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Although I appreciate your approach, agree the thread should get back to the initial purpose, and am by no means a grease monkey myself, I think some validity has to be given to Jason and Armstrong given the fact that they are currently pushing these vehicles in real world race events, which is where auto manufacturers have learned the most about what works and what doesn't. Again, I'm no expert and I say it with all due respect, but I can't imagine a situation in daily driving or aggressive street driving where more would be revealed about the brakes on these cars then on the track in national events. Further to that, not just on the track in national events, but winning those events with fully built Yaris' running OEM brakes.

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:33 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimKellyfan View Post
I mentioned the driving experience only to mock myself for how hard I am on the car sometimes, but also to enlighten you and the false statement you had, knowing you drove the hardest of them all, and not really knowing that fer sher



Actually, I started this thread, as there really was no real stickie or good info on other options or any options for that matter and wanted to help myself and others, as to what is available, didn't really start the thread for a bashing by the almighty racing clown, then get bashed again.

I have more than 480 certificates (in multiple manufacturing brands) in automotive, electrical and tires and do not claim to be the know it all, actually try and help, and be helped. I have been working on cars since 83 helpin pa, 84 in school, then on personal or girlfriends cars until 89 then part time until 97 then full time since then, but, dude, I do not claim to be all knowing.
I came here looking for tips and tricks, saving me time and helping others when I can, as much as I can.

There are some good techs on here that we want their advice, what they did on their brakes and what they recommend. I merely also stated what I was doing as well.
Feedback good and bad is good.
Fail troll is not.
So, you are either here to help or to not.
So far though

Lets turn the thread back into what we all can do to have the best brakes and the cheapest way to do it. As well as some pretty ones and some racy ones and plain jane ones. And newer Yaris ones, or older Corolla ones. And so on.

Lotsa good input so far from many thanks.
Hopefully no more bashing from the race clown: barf:
Great post. Is that English?

You can't help those that have made up their mind despite evidence to the contrary. Some guys are just so "street" they can't believe they are doing it wrong. Lol
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:46 PM   #43
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Have to agree w/ JimKelly. Let's put the junk junk back in the pants and stop trying to compare lengths.

All input on this forum is appreciated and yes especially from those that race and are damn good at it. However, for the sake of everyone's gain, let's try and keep the ego's away...this is an Internet forum...let's be honest.

In the relatively short time i've been on this forum i've been able to learn more about cars than I ever thought I would. Without the input from various perspectives it wouldn't have happened. Just keep it clean and to the point of the original post and it's a win.
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Old 11-23-2015, 11:52 PM   #44
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All I know is that I am not happy with the OEM brake performance with what I do for racing. I will need to look into that swap.

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Old 05-31-2017, 09:34 AM   #45
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Cool update

I have driven on the Max brakes for a few months now. Overall, I will be going back to my Toyota brake pad and rotor set up when done with these. I did machine the rotors and then painted them, and placed them somewhere in my humidity/temp controlled shed, laying flat. Ditto with the wifes Camry front rotors. I have found, from customers cars as well as my own, the pulsation concern lies with the sliders needing to be re-lubed, pending use and water drive through, etc., but typically at least at half pad life. Then for us Yaris owners, to make sure also to have rear brakes adjusted out as needed.
The Max brake comparison in my opinion, they shine over two areas only, severe panic stop and less brake fade when warm. The variable here could be I also upgraded my brake fluid on some of the fade concern, but also, I was on the lower half of the stock pads too. But, regular braking, they perform weaker than the stocks. I believe the slots and drills provide a tick more grab on panic stops. Next go around, I will put stock pads n rotors back on, but also do another brake flush with same synthetic fluid to rule out variable in fade. That said, the Max brakes were a tick cheaper with rotors and you get what you pay for, really. A tick cheaper set up. OK, but not great and going back to stock says it all. Hope this helps. If Wilwood or the like made a set up, then maybe go for that. I did also change springs and struts, this also assists in braking less nose dive.
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:38 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ern-diz View Post
Although I appreciate your approach, agree the thread should get back to the initial purpose, and am by no means a grease monkey myself, I think some validity has to be given to Jason and Armstrong given the fact that they are currently pushing these vehicles in real world race events, which is where auto manufacturers have learned the most about what works and what doesn't. Again, I'm no expert and I say it with all due respect, but I can't imagine a situation in daily driving or aggressive street driving where more would be revealed about the brakes on these cars then on the track in national events. Further to that, not just on the track in national events, but winning those events with fully built Yaris' running OEM brakes.

Just my 2 cents.
Agreed. It was just the seemingly being bashed I disliked.
I work on cars all day.
N drive 80-100 miles/day in crazy (as it is everywhere) rush hr traffic, typically with the more aggressive approach.
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TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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Old 05-31-2017, 09:39 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmontague View Post
Have to agree w/ JimKelly. Let's put the junk junk back in the pants and stop trying to compare lengths.

All input on this forum is appreciated and yes especially from those that race and are damn good at it. However, for the sake of everyone's gain, let's try and keep the ego's away...this is an Internet forum...let's be honest.

In the relatively short time i've been on this forum i've been able to learn more about cars than I ever thought I would. Without the input from various perspectives it wouldn't have happened. Just keep it clean and to the point of the original post and it's a win.
Agreed.
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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Old 03-06-2020, 08:59 AM   #48
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Well, I made it to 198K miles, and the rotors held up well, only pulsate if really rompin on it. Normal braking ok. But, I am down to 4 mm on the pads, and have a low pedal. RFear brakes finally changed last night before I left work, they were a wafer on primary shoe, so done. The rotors did wear about half of my slots away. Not having great bits on the lathe, and prolly taking most of the slot away if machined, I am gonna toss the maxx brake rotors n pads. I would say, all in all not bad, normal stopping not as good as stock and emergency stopping better than stock, but not by much....I have my OEM rotors I had previously machined and painted and stored flat, so they will go back on tonight with factory pads (like my shoes, factory). Then I will bleed n flush brake fluid again tonight or soon, pending pedal feel. So, that said, I would go with maxx brakes again, but the factory pads are a cheaper option for me currently, so doin that.
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2010 Yaris sedan, TRD CAT back (sport muffler only, really), OBX header (relocated front AF sensor to front pipe), OBX throttle plate spacer, K&N filter (in stock air box-for now), TRD struts and shocks, Mexico Rough Road Springs x 4, new Yota sway bar links front, slotted/drilled rotors and Maxx brakes front, Valvoline synthetic brake fluid, 3M undercoated, 16" Konig Feathers Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 + Tires
TRD rear sway bar, 4 GT Spec bars including: front strut brace 2 point, 4 point ladder brace, mid chassis brace and rear lower tie brace, rear hitch, [B]
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