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Old 03-25-2018, 08:41 PM   #1
SirDigby
 
Drives: 2007 yaris 3 door
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Denver, Colorado
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Made a mount

I made a mount.
i used Smooth-On PMC 770. shore 70a i bought at a local costume shop. i used hose clamps for spacers on the ends and wrapped it with gorilla tape. it turned out pretty good.



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Old 03-25-2018, 09:46 PM   #2
ACKING_QC
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WTF you can litterally do everything !? custom intake, now urethane mounts...

what's the next step ?

a widebody kit ? some replicas of bumpers ?

damn I love your things.... I wish I could be a fabricator too
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Old 03-26-2018, 12:14 PM   #3
tmontague
 
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This is awesome. Do you mid posting some more detailed pics in regards to the hose clamp set up? Also how did you go about removing the rubber and then keeping the center metal spindle in the correct place while pouring the poly?

I did a rush job on mine and I'm still getting a lot of banging of my trans off the subframe so I want to re do my xd doggone mount properly like you did but would really appreciate some more info on how you did yours
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Old 03-27-2018, 10:46 PM   #4
SirDigby
 
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i'd post some pictures of the clamps, but i've already tossed them.
so i bought some clamps for a dryer exhaust tube. they threaded all the way, but i think as long as you are bigger than 2.75 inches i think that should be fine. on the pour side (bottom picture, previous post) i applied Meguiar's carnuba wax to the entire hose clamp so the urethane did not bond. i just clamped it on really tight. i used a new mount purchased from toyota. i did not remove the center pivot connection. (it will be fine) i did use a razor blade and remove all the excess rubber in the center gaps/edges. i cleaned with a heavy degreaser. for the bottom, i needed the urethane to be level, so i had to trim hose clamps to be flush/level. (also coated with wax.) trim circled in this picture:



then i got the black tape and wrapped it up tight, coated it with rubber cement, then another layer of tape. you can order urethane from many places, and there is many local places to buy it, sometimes. if you order "mount kits" they are usually a lot more expensive. if you buy just urethane in the shore you want, it's cheap. you can even by dye all in the rainbow. (no dye for me)
after 24 hours of drying, i removed tape and loosened the clamps. my oven only goes down to 170 degrees, so to vulcanize the urethane i put it in a few ziplock bags, tapped them up, and put my stove on 1.5. (dial goes 1-10) i simmered the mount for 4 hours at about 150 F. (66c) this is not necessary, but it will increase rigidity and longevity. i set a timer for every 30 minutes to check temp/level. used a simple candy thermometer

the next thing i'm "making" is a gauge cluster, mount, thing for gauges and stuff. plexi-glass.
i have an armrest all taken apart right here. i'm modifying the way the insert hatch opens. also it has all this chrome pieces on the trim and cup holder; https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-06-11-T...53.m2749.l2648
so i'm waiting for some vinyl to arrive to wrap it. i'm also going to do the hvac and vents to match. i ordered some LV vinyl, but the pattern is too big. i've got some real nice carbon fiber that i'm going to stick to the hood; but first i need to re-polish the headlights. i'm going to remove them and do them really nice; when i replace my radiator/water pump/hoses/belts/coolant; or known as the 100,000/10 year coolant system revamp.... which is when the coolant sensor for the water gauge goes in, for the gauge cluster.
what?
so, yeah. i have a coolant project, gauge project, interior vinyl project, exterior vinyl project, headlights, and steering and suspension going on right now.
what?
oh, and my kid want's me to build him a computer
oh, and my step father just died and left me a jeep cherokee 300 miles away. so there's another project; retrieving and reviving a grandpa-jeep.
i need more money....
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Old 03-31-2018, 12:35 PM   #5
SirDigby
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirDigby View Post
note about this armrest: it is too short. it needs to be raised about 6+ inches. also, mounting sucks. does not fit well en the cup holder. can rock back and forth.
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Old 05-28-2018, 08:48 PM   #6
tmontague
 
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Made my own 2 mounts as well

I just finished making my own DIY mounts (again) and taking the time to properly do them. I used SirDigby's tips with the hose clamps and I also took it a step further and took a few hours to crosscut out as much of the rubber as |I could on the dogbone mount. For the trans mount I didn't bother to do very much as the shape of it makes it challenging to do.



still had a bit more to go at this point


I opted for energy suspensions poly as I couldn't source one online that I was satisfied would fit the bill. I went with the super stiff 94a rating poly as I want this thing to have virtually no movement as my transmission hits the subframe during hard redline shifts at the track







I used aluminium foil tape to seal everything as I have found in the past this tape worked the best. I also used heavy duty hot glue to seal any areas that the tape couldn't get.







end result - not the cleanest but very functional and rock solid...seriously absolutely no play what so ever in the mounts. I'll let them cure for 6 days and install them before my track day this Friday











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Old 05-29-2018, 02:01 PM   #7
DarkShadowFox
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are these mounts stiffer then the TRD mounts.
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Old 05-29-2018, 02:37 PM   #8
tmontague
 
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A whole lot stiffer. TRD mounts are only mildly stiffer as they have the same design(voids) but with a stiffer rubber.

These are solid poly filled mounts with no voids. However the durometer of poly you use also affects the stiffness
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Old 05-30-2018, 06:26 AM   #9
Ronnie V
 
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Nice work Trevor! I'm glad I could just buy these for my first gen.......I would not have done all that work.
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Old 05-30-2018, 03:05 PM   #10
DarkShadowFox
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http://www.suspension.com/blog/do-it...ement-inserts/

found this.
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Old 05-31-2018, 11:30 PM   #11
SirDigby
 
Drives: 2007 yaris 3 door
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it's really not that much work. took about 45 minutes to set up. my biggest time consumption was boiling/curing for 4 hours.
like i said, i got mine from a local mold/costume shop. i couldn't really find what i wanted on the internet much ether... (for a reasonable price)
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Old 06-01-2018, 11:46 AM   #12
tmontague
 
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What took a couple hours for me was removing as much rubber as possible from the dogbone mount. Its not necessary but it makes it stronger as there is more poly in those areas and less likely to crack.

If you don't cross cut out the rubber then like Digby said, it's not a lot of time

I installed mine last night and drove on them this morning. A lot of extra NVH but damn shifts are crisper and there is very little to no engine/trans movement. Its hard to explain but when you have experienced the contrast it becomes apparent how much the engine and trans actually move. I also have no more thumping in my engine bay during hard shifts so clearly the culprit was the trans hitting the subframe as I suspected.

I can't comment on wheel hop as I haven't went wot in first gear yet. I like having a "live" car so the extra NVH is welcomed by me, makes the driving exprience more real. For most I wouldn't recommend 94a durometer poly for a DD'r. Go 60a for a purely DD car, for a DD'r that sees track time then 85a is probably your best bet. Unless of course you don't mind extra noises and vibrations.

As a side, bumps are harsher now too as the engine/trans which is ovrr 300lbs is transferring the bump almost directly to the frame.

I have one more front end clunk to fix which I'll write about in the suspension section, other then that the car is getting quietter
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