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Old 09-18-2016, 07:48 AM   #1
TnF
 
Drives: Yaris XP90
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1ND-TV 1.4L D4D XP90 starting problems

Hello guys. I own a Yaris XP90 diesel that for the past week has started having problems starting up. No engine code (although i haven't yet connected to the obd to check in Techstream), did full service, oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter (of course it was primed), coolant and no change. When it starts it behaves normal, same power no issues at all. Only when starting and it seems if i take a long drive then stop it becomes extremely difficult to start. Today it took 5 long cranks to get it to start! I also checked the SCV (?) valve on the fuel pump while i did the service, cleaned it up, checked resistance and used 12v to check if it is working and seemed fine. Of course battery is perfectly fine, cranks like hell (no slow down whatever). Also we used STP diesel injector cleaner but like i said no change at all from the service.

Also i've used Techsteam yesterday, no DTC codes, Rail pressure is 30Mpa at idle (850rpm), 14Mpa at cranking (260rpm). Is this enough? Anyone has a pdf fsm i can download??

(btw all other paremeters looked ok)

Any ideas what can it be?

Kind regards!
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:21 AM   #2
Bluevitz-rs
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Do they still use glow plugs for cold starts? One of them could have failed.
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Old 09-18-2016, 02:18 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Bluevitz-rs View Post
Do they still use glow plugs for cold starts? One of them could have failed.
Yes that's not the issue though. The engine can be fully hot and still won't start. (it is actually worse when it is hot, it can take 5 cranks to start)
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:43 AM   #4
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is there a low pressure pump in the fuel tank to feed the high pressure pump?
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:05 PM   #5
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is there a low pressure pump in the fuel tank to feed the high pressure pump?
No there is not. It is not a pump problem. I was at my friend's home up a steep hill. After 2 hours i left, but didn't started it. I turned the switch to ON, let the car roll down about 5 meters to get some speed, and let the clutch with 1st gear in and it started immediately! So it must be either the battery or the starter!
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:20 PM   #6
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Measure the voltage as you crank the car. It should not drop below 9v at the absolute minimum.
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Old 10-09-2016, 03:29 PM   #7
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It was 2 of the injectors afterall! Basically if you know how DI injectors work, there are 2 valves. The "low pressure" valve with the small ball wasn't sitting correct due to corrosion/damage so it activated the high pressure plunger essentially leaking small amounts of petrol in the cylinder. But because the air is entering the cylinder at cranking is much small it had difficulty to start. I had this guy rebuild them with genuine bosch parts, costed me 330eur for all the service.
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Old 04-30-2017, 08:28 PM   #8
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Hey, guys, looking to do a diesel conversion here in the states. Do you know what parts i will need other than enigine , trans , ecu ? Meaning will i need fuels lines, intrument cluster, etc... any help is greatlu appreciated.
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Old 05-02-2017, 07:23 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Demon_S8 View Post
Hey, guys, looking to do a diesel conversion here in the states. Do you know what parts i will need other than enigine , trans , ecu ? Meaning will i need fuels lines, intrument cluster, etc... any help is greatlu appreciated.
To be honest mate, you should stick with petrol. Your very fortunate to have cheap petrol over your side of the pond. Modern diesel engines are nothing but trouble. These 1ND engines are one of the more troublesome engines Toyota have ever made.

I would guess your looking at about 250 for an injector in one of these. 750-1000 for the high pressure diesel pump. 1000 for a turbo. Not to mention you would have to find someone from Europe to ship those parts to you if any of them went wrong.

You would also need to fit the intercooler in the front next to the radiator. Then there is the emissions control system which i confess I'm not familiar with for that model but it probably has a DPF/Ad blue system, which probably means a tank in addition to the fuel tank. Piping. Wiring. The control system for it and the exhaust would obviously be none standard.

My guess is the only practical way to do it and not spend years scrounging around for parts and pulling your hair out with wiring would be to get one carefully disassembled, the body cut in half and put in a shipping container and sent to you. I know that's how they get non approved cars from Japan into Australia.
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