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Old 08-08-2020, 10:54 PM   #1
phyrefighterjay
 
Drives: 07 yaris sedan
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2007 yaris sedan 275,000 mi (original brakes!) what do i need to do to get 375k?

You heard it. 275k on original brakes. I drive this car very lightly. All i have done is buy new tires and change the oil with walmarts supertech full synthetic oil with 15k filter. I used to change it every 5 to 8 k but the last 4 changes have been 15k. One question...ALL ive done is change the oil, what other services have i missed? I blow out the air filter often. Change the tires...but ive done nothing else. Fuel filter? Timing chain? Anything else? Thanks for the input.
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Old 08-09-2020, 03:50 PM   #2
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Ive also replaced the serp belt twice.
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Old 08-11-2020, 08:24 AM   #3
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I'm at 180,000 miles and the only major issues I've had were water pump failure and passenger front wheel bearing went bad.

I replaced my front brake pads at around 130k, but they still had some life and I just did the rear drums at around 170k.
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Old 08-11-2020, 01:28 PM   #4
iOLO
 
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spark plugs
engine air filter
cabin air filter
coolant drain/replace

u can do fuel filter too wouldnt be bad idea but timing chain is prolly fine. keep changing oil at 5-10k mi unless u do mostly highway driving to keep engine lasting as long as possible. some other easy things would be cleaning MAF sensor and throttle body.
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Old 08-12-2020, 07:28 AM   #5
06YarisRS
 
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That's pretty darn good service life from brakes, light weight Yaris or not. Nicely done! Is your car auto or manual? I too use Walmart Full Syn almost exclusively in all my cars. It's great oil and the prices on it here in Canada seem to have dropped substantially. For example, I buy the 5W40 for my VW for around $19.00 a jug.
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Old 08-15-2020, 11:16 PM   #6
phyrefighterjay
 
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Its an auto. I hypermile a bit.
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Old 08-15-2020, 11:18 PM   #7
phyrefighterjay
 
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Sorry, i change the plugs every 100k and air filter, but ive never tightened the chassais bolts or drained the coolant. Timing chain?
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Old 08-17-2020, 12:46 PM   #8
ECHOKnight2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leegamer View Post
I'm at 180,000 miles and the only major issues I've had were water pump failure and passenger front wheel bearing went bad.

I replaced my front brake pads at around 130k, but they still had some life and I just did the rear drums at around 170k.
I have an 09 and I'm about the same mileage as you. I just past 182k. I hope my water pump doesn't go! Especially when it starts to get cold or winter. So far it's fine. I got my rear drums done not long ago too. Fronts I'm suspecious of but I haven't looked lately. I got my car last year. Now that people are meeting and things opening up I'm driving more again so that adds the miles. Which is fine, it's a commuter car.

I changed my oil, air filter, spark plugs last month but I feel over all my mileage isn't the greatest for the kind of car it is. I'm in the low 30s if not upper 20s. Horrible for a car like this IMO. Sure I get there are tons of variables for mpg. But I guess I'm spoiled from the ECHO I had as it didn't take much to get into the 40s. I cracked 40mpg ONCE this summer. I don't remember if I did last Summer. Granted the ECHO is lighter but not by much. Oh wells!
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Old 08-23-2020, 01:21 AM   #9
lorne
 
Drives: 2007 1.3L AWD (auto) Vitz 5 dr
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Things People Often Overlook for Too Many Kms/ Miles

Coolant change-outs with flush, brake fluid change-outs with flush, cabin filters. There is a schedule for each of these. Coolant can be tested with a VOM for the maximum electrical current considered tolerably resistant to electrolyis — usually stated as 0.300 VDC or less. Here in humid Japan, it is commonly accepted that the brake fluid gets flushed out completely every two years. (Brake fluid is hydroscopic). Cabin filters are either often ignored, or for those who never read the owner's manual, remain unknown. YMMV, but if you live near a rogue nuke like I do, you were prompted to think about it in 2011 if you had half a brain.
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Old 08-23-2020, 01:36 AM   #10
lorne
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phyrefighterjay View Post
You heard it. 275k on original brakes. I drive this car very lightly. All i have done is buy new tires and change the oil with walmarts supertech full synthetic oil with 15k filter.>>>SNIP>>> Anything else? Thanks for the input.
More: if it's a manual trans, drain and change the oil. If it's auto, change the ATF. You could just change it with a drain, but the best way would be to drop the pan and change the filter. Do not believe the blah blah about the lifetime fluid thing that Toyota talks about. And if you have not regularly serviced it (or even if you have) DO NOT HAVE IT FLUSHED!
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Old 09-15-2020, 03:06 PM   #11
Mister
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phyrefighterjay View Post
You heard it. 275k on original brakes. I drive this car very lightly. All i have done is buy new tires and change the oil with walmarts supertech full synthetic oil with 15k filter. I used to change it every 5 to 8 k but the last 4 changes have been 15k. One question...ALL ive done is change the oil, what other services have i missed? I blow out the air filter often. Change the tires...but ive done nothing else. Fuel filter? Timing chain? Anything else? Thanks for the input.
I own a 1Kr-FE 3 cylinder engine Yaris. It is called a Yaris T1 in the zoo of a country that I live in.

FWIW here is the service schedule from Toyota's TIS system:
180 000 Km service interval:

Air Filter (Inspect Housing) - Replace
Gasket Sump Plug - Replace
Engine Oil 15W40 - Replace
Engine Coolant (After 160000km Replace every 80 000km) - Inspect
Manual Transmission oil - Inspect
Air Filter refiner - Replace
Spark Plugs - Replace
Brake Fluid - Replace
Consumables - Replace (Stupid sheeet that the $tealership charges for gloves and stoopid Covid masks)
Front Disk Brakes - Inspect
Drum Brake - Inspect
Front Brake PAds - Inspect
Rear Brake Pads - Inspect
Brake pedal and parking brake adjust if needed - Inspect
Inspect radiator fins for blockages damage - Inspect
Brake pipes and hoses - Inspect
Exhaust pipe and mountings - Inspect
Clutch Fluid - Inspect (This one confuses me unless it means bleeding the clutch since brake fluid is replaced here)
Charcoal canister check for blockages - Inspect
Drive belt condition and tension - Inspect
Drive shaft boots inspect for leaks and damage - Inspect
Steering wheel linkage inspect for free play and damage - Inspect
batter connections and level if applicable - Inspect
ball joint and dust cover inspect for free play and damage - Inspect
Lights and horn and wipers and washers and instrument switches - inspect
Tyres and Inflation pressure - Inspect (yes we spell it TYRES)
Valve clearance inspection - Inspect
Fuel tank cap and fuel Lines and connections and fuel vapour control valve - Inspect
ventilation and heater and airconditioner operation - Inspect
Cooling and heater system hoses and connections - Inspect
Inspect bodywork for signs of rust - Inspect

PS: I would replace the cheap a$$ PCV valve too.
Also, South Africa Toyota uses the 60000km service schedule in lieu of the absence of a 210 000km schedule.
So you will probably need to use this schedule around 300 000 km? Do you speak in miles or km?

Last edited by Mister; 09-15-2020 at 03:13 PM. Reason: adding info
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Old 09-21-2020, 04:25 PM   #12
Mister
 
Drives: Yaris T1
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Was quoted on a cheesy app for the above:
R4154.39

In American Dorrah it is 247,57 $

From the stealership.

Would 'mericans pay this amount for this service?
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Old 05-23-2021, 10:58 AM   #13
fj40dave
 
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I had a '08 HB that I put 258k on the odo....just passed it on to one of my kids for a commuter to school.
Regular service including radiator, tranny (automatic) fluid, plugs, brakes, filters, belts, and I've run Amsoil extended life (25k mile oil) changing the filter (WIX) every 10k, and the oil and filter every other 10K.

Not sure how many more miles this amazing Mighty Yaris will give, but there's NO sign of slowing down whatsoever!
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Old 05-23-2021, 12:42 PM   #14
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How are the motor mounts? I have to believe they would be shot
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